Mike Cutler
03-11-2008, 8:54 AM
Hey folks.
I'm doing a bathroom remodel that has gotten a little out of control. It was started in the fall, but winter....Well we all know how winter can put the brakes on a project.
This remodel required that all of the subfloor be pulled up, two layers of T&G. The original 2x6 floor joist were spanning 10 feet and were bowed. I've sistered 2x8's to the original 2x6's that were installed circa 1919 to level the floors. I then put down a single layer of 3/4" Home Advantage TM engineered subfloor, and this is where I am at. (Oh yeah, the room was gutted to the studs, walls trued, and new insulation put in.)
I want to put in a tile floor,and to be honest it's getting a little confusing on how do do it the "best way".
If I am understanding everything properly the sequence should be like this.
One layer of 5/8' Interior plywood on top of the 3/4" Home Advantage subfloor with 15# roofing felt in between. Screws on 4"-6" spacing screwed into the subfloor but not the joists.
A waterproof membrane is put down on top of the plywood, followed by thinset and the concrete backer board. Once again screwed on 4"-6" centers.
The concrete backer board is then taped and the joints filled like drywall. After this another waterproof membrane is put down, followed by a leveling compound.
At this point I want to put in an under tile radiant heat system. How is the radiant heat system affixed to the concrete backer board? The videos show staples?
From this point it's just thinset and the tiles, which are 13.25" square.
I have done a previous floor tiling job but it was dome with small mosiac tiles, so the substrate build up wasn't as crucial. I also used a thinset made for plywood on that job. There was no concrete backer board. These big tiles can crack if everything isn't done right. ( Something I'd really like to avoid)
As I said, the room has been gutted to the studs and the entire floor is accesible from the basement underneath. So there is no reason to try to take any shortcuts, or do it on the cheap.
All of the books I've found deal more with designing and walls than floors. I just want to get this right.
I'm looking for tips, tricks, pitfalls and product recommendations, or if I'm totally hosed up, the correct way.
One more thing. A Maax Neo Round shower is being put in that has to be leveled and mortared. Is it better to put this on top of the concrete backer board, or on top of the plywood?
Thanks in advance.
I'm doing a bathroom remodel that has gotten a little out of control. It was started in the fall, but winter....Well we all know how winter can put the brakes on a project.
This remodel required that all of the subfloor be pulled up, two layers of T&G. The original 2x6 floor joist were spanning 10 feet and were bowed. I've sistered 2x8's to the original 2x6's that were installed circa 1919 to level the floors. I then put down a single layer of 3/4" Home Advantage TM engineered subfloor, and this is where I am at. (Oh yeah, the room was gutted to the studs, walls trued, and new insulation put in.)
I want to put in a tile floor,and to be honest it's getting a little confusing on how do do it the "best way".
If I am understanding everything properly the sequence should be like this.
One layer of 5/8' Interior plywood on top of the 3/4" Home Advantage subfloor with 15# roofing felt in between. Screws on 4"-6" spacing screwed into the subfloor but not the joists.
A waterproof membrane is put down on top of the plywood, followed by thinset and the concrete backer board. Once again screwed on 4"-6" centers.
The concrete backer board is then taped and the joints filled like drywall. After this another waterproof membrane is put down, followed by a leveling compound.
At this point I want to put in an under tile radiant heat system. How is the radiant heat system affixed to the concrete backer board? The videos show staples?
From this point it's just thinset and the tiles, which are 13.25" square.
I have done a previous floor tiling job but it was dome with small mosiac tiles, so the substrate build up wasn't as crucial. I also used a thinset made for plywood on that job. There was no concrete backer board. These big tiles can crack if everything isn't done right. ( Something I'd really like to avoid)
As I said, the room has been gutted to the studs and the entire floor is accesible from the basement underneath. So there is no reason to try to take any shortcuts, or do it on the cheap.
All of the books I've found deal more with designing and walls than floors. I just want to get this right.
I'm looking for tips, tricks, pitfalls and product recommendations, or if I'm totally hosed up, the correct way.
One more thing. A Maax Neo Round shower is being put in that has to be leveled and mortared. Is it better to put this on top of the concrete backer board, or on top of the plywood?
Thanks in advance.