My New Lumber Storage Rack

[Paul Fitzgerald]

I'm waiting on a shipment of wood and was trying to figure out where the heck to put it when I decided to go ahead and install some shelving to store my lumber.

I had been reading the lumber storage threads and really like the Triton, but felt it didn't really suit my needs (at least at the moment). Almost all my lumber is under five feet in length, and I have a lot of shorts as well as odds and ends to store. The feature most important to me was flexibility. I could have built an adjustable unit with 2x4s or iron pipe, but ultimate decided against it.

I noticed quite a few Creekers were using Rubbermaid shelving from the Borg. Although it's a bit pricey, it looked like it would meet my needs perfectly. So I took a trip down to my local HD and picked up enough standards and brackets to make a very respectable lumber storage rack.

I attached seven 70" long standards to each stud (set 16" apart) with #12 3" wood screws. This gives me just about 10' of horizontal storage that's extremely flexible. Rubbermaid states each pair of 11.5" brackets holds 275lbs, so I figure I can probably store all my lumber in this area pretty safely. If I'm wrong, PLEASE let me know. I'd hate for this to become a disaster.

83750

Paul

[Greg Hines, MD]

It sounds like you should be able to store whatever stock you have or need on that system. The limiting factor to it would be that your standards are properly attached to the studs, and it sounds like yours are.

The only other problem will relate to keeping your stock flat. You might want to cut some plywood or particle board to use as the base layer, so that your stock will not have to just span the 16" distances.

Doc

[Jim Becker]

Well...seems to me that you now need to fill up that fine lumber rack, so get shopping! :D (Nice job!)

[Anthony Whitesell]

When I was growing up, I had that same style system for books and other 'kids junk'. We found that after a fews years that the vertical supports began slide down the wall. We think it was like the 'nail pops' you get in sheet rock. And I get them even when the sheetrock fasteners are sheetrock screws and not sheetrock nails. Our solution was to but a block from the floor to the bottom of the supports to keep them from sliding. Knowing my father he used either #12 or 1/4" lag bolts 2-3 inches long. Not try to be pessimistic, just something to keep an eye on.

[alex grams]

in respect to Greg's comments about sagging , you could counter this by taking stock and setting it vertically on your stands instead of laying it flat, that would effectively help eliminate any sag in most of your pieces.

Though overall, what did it run you? This is something on my list i need to do.

[Paul Fitzgerald]

The only other problem will relate to keeping your stock flat. You might want to cut some plywood or particle board to use as the base layer, so that your stock will not have to just span the 16" distances.

Doc

That sounds like a fine idea! Thanks for the tip.


Well...seems to me that you now need to fill up that fine lumber rack, so get shopping! :D (Nice job!)

LOL, Jim, that's easier said that done. My finance and I are getting married on 6/7/08 so it's a bit of a balancing at at the moment. :)


When I was growing up, I had that same style system for books and other 'kids junk'. We found that after a fews years that the vertical supports began slide down the wall. We think it was like the 'nail pops' you get in sheet rock. And I get them even when the sheetrock fasteners are sheetrock screws and not sheetrock nails. Our solution was to but a block from the floor to the bottom of the supports to keep them from sliding. Knowing my father he used either #12 or 1/4" lag bolts 2-3 inches long. Not try to be pessimistic, just something to keep an eye on.

Another good idea. I was thinking about that while I was installing them. The garage floor is sloped and there's a skirt board running around the perimeter covering the transition from concrete to drywall. So each block would have to be created separately. But I think I'm going to take the time to do that... better safe than sorry.


Though overall, what did it run you? This is something on my list i need to do.

I ended up with:

7 - 70" Twin-Track Standards @ about $8 = $56
21 - 11.5" Twin-Track Brackets @ about $3 = $63
2 - 25 pack #12 3" Wood Screws @ about $6 = $12
Plus about 10% tax = $13 for a Grand Total of about $144

And I can go back and buy additional brackets at any time.

I guess that isn't really all that pricey afterall.

Paul

[Dave Novak]

My system's almost identical, except that I added a shelve of plywood on top of the supports. My thinking was that I keep smaller pieces of exotics around, and sometimes it's a lot easier and more organized to have a spot to put them, vs. trying to find a longer board to pile them on.

[glenn bradley]

Looking good. That is the same system I use and funny that it is in about the same position :D. I installed mine higher to take advantage of the area above the garage door guide. This let me keep enough lower space open to 'garage' some rolling tools when not in use.

Like you, I liked the idea of being able to get parts to add-on at the drop of a hat . The main challenge for me was the uneven wall surface. Mounting directly to what the builder called plumb would not allow me to get my brackets even :mad:.

I am shimming for now as the wall is due for some electrical additions, etc. shortly. The last thing you want to do is store your lumber on uneven supports so I may just build out some floor to joist posts. I hate to give up the few inches of depth but, wood is expensive and that wall is pretty bad.

P.s. The cost was not bad compared to some other options and it is cheap to add on, eh?