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Mark Kelly
03-17-2004, 4:29 PM
I have a new stanley block plane (9 1/2). I bought it cause I heard stanley was a good brand (didn't know there was a caveat of it being BEFORE WWII) and I didn't trust myself to buy a used one on Ebay. Had no idea what I was doing when I bought it. Didn't know the difference between a jointer, smoother, block, etc. I go into all of this so I don't get chastised for buying a new stanley plane! :)

Anyway, I have tuned it up. The sole looks to be perfectly flat (although, I haven't checked it on my bandsaw table....something I will do tonight). The blade is sharpened and with a microbevel. It is an impressive little tool and I have used it a lot already to help fit the little things that just didn't fit just right.

However, it isn't perfect. Or more than likely, I haven't got the hang of using it properly. Questions:

1) When I plane an edge (say 3/4" oak), after a number of strokes where I have the plane sitting flat to the side, a bevel occurs. Initially, I figured it was the iron was a little skewed (in relation to the bed of the plane,) and it was. But sometimes I still get that bevel when I don't think there is a skew on the iron. Is there a way to make sure, other than sight, that the iron is parallel with the mouth?

2) Could the sole of the plane NOT be flat?

3) Is it technique? Could I be doing something wrong?

4) Is there a way to 'tighten' the lever that holds the iron to the bed? Too many times, while I am in the middle of working with it, I accidentally hit the lever and have to stop and readjust the iron and carefully push the lever to the right to hold the iron back in place. Maybe it's just part of it, but it can be frustrating.

Rick Lasita
03-17-2004, 7:50 PM
Mark, really tough question only because somethings are easier to do than describe, but I will give my 2 cents,




1) When I plane an edge (say 3/4" oak), after a number of strokes where I have the plane sitting flat to the side, a bevel occurs.


My guess here would be related to item 3 below. Also, I am thinking you are trying to take too much off at one time, back off the cut a little bit and take lighter strokes.
2) Could the sole of the plane NOT be flat?
This is again a guess, and some experience, but I would think the sole would really have to be out for that much of a bevel to occur, you would be able to see that with the naked eye.

3) Is it technique? Could I be doing something wrong?

Ahhhh, now we are getting some where. I found that when I first slid down the slope a few years ago, and tuned and sharpened, etc, and for as simple as it sounds, to check your stance at the bench. The height of the wood in the clamp, and start with the toe and and end with pressure on the heel of the plane. This is the thing that is easier to do than explain. :cool:
4) Is there a way to 'tighten' the lever that holds the iron to the bed?

Too many times, while I am in the middle of working with it, I accidentally hit the lever and have to stop and readjust the iron and carefully push the lever to the right to hold the iron back in place. Maybe it's just part of it, but it can be frustrating.

This one is probably related to the tool you are using, and I suspect there is some chatter or vibration that is helping that lever to loosen up.

Try the tool on some pine, or a softer wood, to get the techique down. Oak isn't the easiest to plane. Cruise e-bay and you should be able to get a good user for 20 bucks, or go to the sites of some of the dealers in hand tools and you can pick one up there for about what you spent initially. Not sure all of this is much help, but let us know how you are progressing. My skills and confidence, as well as my work, benifited greatly once I started to use more and more hand tools in my projects. Good Luck, Rick

Sean Evoy
03-18-2004, 10:09 AM
Mark,
I took a course in handtool use last fall and the instructor suggested that people upgrade their modern Stanley block plane with a Hock iron. I know you probably don't want to hear that you need to spend more money, but my classmates who did all reported a performance improvement. The other thing I would suggest is to pull the balde and take a look at the bedding surface for the iron. Is it roughly machined? Is the blade making solid contact with it? If not, then maybe a couple of passes with a mill bastard file would help keep the iron steady. It's a shame that a company with such a proud tradition let their hand-tool manufacturing standards slip so far!

Steven Wilson
03-18-2004, 11:10 AM
1) "... sitting flat to the side, a bevel occurs .... Is there a way to make sure, other than sight, that the iron is parallel with the mouth?"

Nope, sight and feel is what you have. BTW, sight and feel is very accurate at determining this, besides you can adjust by using good technique.

2) "Could the sole of the plane NOT be flat?"

Yes it sure can, and twisted too ! On old ones the casting can be cracked. This is one reason I like a ductile iron plane for a block plane - I like a plane that can survive a fall on concrete.

3) " Is it technique? Could I be doing something wrong?"

Yep. If you're trying to maintain a very square edge then mark out lines and cut down to them. You can also wrap a finger under the plane and use it as a fence. On larger bench planes you can use a Stanley 386 fence to ensure square (I use one when jointing all the time). You can also use a shooting board to help maintain square. You will get better with practice.

4) "Is there a way to 'tighten' the lever that holds the iron to the bed?"

Hmmm, I don't know. I use a LN LA block plane and it doesn't have that lever. You could try chewing some gum and stick it in the hole, that might "gum" things up enough to add some resistance. You might also look at the mechanism and see if you tighten something by squeezing, just be carefull not to break something (cast pieces don't like to be squeezed).

Greg Wease
03-19-2004, 7:29 PM
[QUOTE=Mark Kelly]

3) Is it technique? Could I be doing something wrong?

Mark, an instructor in a woodworking class I attended a couple years ago suggested planing in front of a mirror (a small hand mirror will do) to see if you are inadvertently tilting the plane. You might see if this improves your technique. Oh, and I'd get comfortable planing edge grain first, then go back to your end grain.

Greg Wease