Rikon Customer Service or 2 10-325's

[Jim Dunn]

I purchased my Rikon 10-325 band-saw as a 35th wedding gift to me:rolleyes: from my wife;). I assembled it and noticed that it wouldn't pass the nickel test:confused:. Well it turns out that the top of the saw itself was welded out of square about 3/4" in 4":o. Not really a great big deal but not what I had in mind for a new piece of equipment.

Called Rikon customer service and they said they would send me a saw sans motor, table and stand.:eek:

Well I am happy to tell you that after waiting about 6 weeks for the saw, they were back-ordered, I finally got a "new" one!! Not only did it come with a motor but also was full of saw dust from all the testing that Fine Wood Working did with it.:D

Seems that since they were back-ordered they only had the slightly used machine that all the testing was done on. I couldn't care less.

I, for one, give Rikon a big thumbs up for their care given to me as a customer. I'll be recommending them to anyone that cares to listen. Further, I'm a long way from fully equipping my shop and they will get a long hard look at their other equipment before I buy anything else.

I intend to keep the other saw and either buy another table or manufacture one. Any thoughts on what it would take to make a table?? I thought I'd set up one of them just for re-sawing with a taller fence and a 1/2" Timber Wolf blade. I need to make a base for the saw as well but that shouldn't be a problem.

Thanks for looking.

In closing I just wanted to inform every-one here about the fine support customer service gave me.

[Dave MacArthur]

interesting. Can you point out where/what was not square? I can't see any warpage in the photos?
Great result for you, congrats!

[James Suzda]

Jim you said: <SNIP> I intend to keep the other saw and either buy another table or manufacture one. Any thoughts on what it would take to make a table?? I thought I'd set up one of them just for re-sawing with a taller fence and a 1/2" Timber Wolf blade. I need to make a base for the saw as well but that shouldn't be a problem.


Rikon is letting you keep the old saw? Wow that's different.
I think I'm going to call them and say my saw is defective! :p

[Jim Dunn]

Dave, believe it or not the saw leans to the left looking at the first picture about an inch top to bottom where it is bolted to the base. Apparently the jig that holds the whole thing together for welding was loose when mine was welded.

In the second picture you can see a level laid up to the side of the saw itself. Remember that this lever is 4' long so it's above the base just measuring the saw. The base is perfectly level to the floor in all pictures.

[Jim Dunn]

Rikon is letting you keep the old saw? Wow that's different.
I think I'm going to call them and say my saw is defective! :p


James I couldn't believe it at first either but what with shipping that heavy beast around the country it's cheaper to let me keep it I guess.

Remember I got the saw slightly used and I'm sure it was a tax/advertising write off the the company, but still, I'm appreciative beyond words.

[David Parker]

That's great news Jim,

I have a Rikon 10-325 on backorder since I've heard so many good things about the saw and the company that stands behind it. I also plan on buying the Rikon 6 inch jointer that Woodcraft currently has on sale. Not only will it be well supported by the company, but it seems to have a few nice features that distinguish it from the other 6 inch jointers.

Dave

A newbie who is currently working on his shop instead of in it :D

[glenn bradley]

James I couldn't believe it at first either but what with shipping that heavy beast around the country it's cheaper to let me keep it I guess.

Remember I got the saw slightly used and I'm sure it was a tax/advertising write off the the company, but still, I'm appreciative beyond words.

Glad to hear they took care of you. I have heard other good CS stories about Rikon as well. Congrats on getting to keep the other saw. I have had similar thing happen when returning the item cost more than it was worth.

Times that folks want there stuff back is when they are trying to figure out what went wrong. On your first saw I would say it was pretty obvious. Adjust around it and have a dedicated re-saw station? Sweet!

[Jim Dunn]

A newbie who is currently working on his shop instead of in it :D

Aren't we all:p:p:eek:.

So does anybody see anything wrong with using MDF supported with some 1/4"X1" steel flat stock as a table? Remember I'm planing on using it as a dedicated re-saw unit only.

[John Maus]

Jim,

Thanks for the post. I have a 14" Deluxe on the way. I am pretty excited about it and all the reviews I've read make me very comfortable with my choice of manufacturer but hearing your experience with customer service doubles my feeling that I made the right choice. Look forward to hearing about how you get your pair of machines set up.

John

[James Hart]

Jim,

I'm curious on how you used a level to determine whether the saw was square. Even with the base 'level to the floor', I'm not 100% on how you determined the frame wasn't square because it wasn't level. Were there other measurements that lead you to this conclusion?

I picked up the same Rikon at Woodcraft and was fortunate it was perfect out of the box. I tensioned mine, used a square to adjust the table 90 degrees to the blade at the side and back. Never thought to hold a level against the outside of the frame. I have read that all adjustments, etc. should be made with the blade tensioned I noticed in your picture showing the level that the quick tension release is released.

I just went out to the garage and held a level to it and it's no where near level (out about 3/4".) Everything that affects the cut is still dead nuts square and the wheels are coplanar.

A few years ago my dad aligned his drill press with a level rather than a square. All the holes were drilled at the slope angle of the garage floor.



Jim

[James Hart]

Jim,

You've really got my gears going with this.

I just tried this same measurement with the level again. I noticed that the part where you are holding the level tapers from 3 1/2" on the bottom to 2 1/4" on the top. This angle seems to be part of the design.

Opening the wheel covers and putting a square where the bottom of the frame attaches to the side, I get a perfect 90 degree corner. Is your saw out of square on this inside measurement?

Jim

[Jim Dunn]

This is how I determined that the saw wasn't square to the world.

The blade can be squared to the table the table "can" be leveled to the floor but not without shimming the base about 1" on one side. That pretty much precludes putting it on a mobile base, hence my complaint to Rikon.

Also if the frame of the saw flexed when I put pressure on the blade it would have gone back for that defect and I'd have purchased another model. The frame is absolutely stronger than the spring or there wouldn't be a need for a spring, just let the frame flex as you apply pressure.

As to the saw frame tapering note that this saws frame is the same width at the base as it is at the top.

[Jim Dunn]

I just tried this same measurement with the level again. I noticed that the part where you are holding the level tapers from 3 1/2" on the bottom to 2 1/4" on the top. This angle seems to be part of the design.

Opening the wheel covers and putting a square where the bottom of the frame attaches to the side, I get a perfect 90 degree corner. Is your saw out of square on this inside measurement?

Jim

You are measuring you saws frame from side to side. Remember that the front of the saw is with the teeth of the blade facing you. Confusing sometimes which is the front and which is the side;).

Hope my above post clarifies the measurements I took. Also the pictures I posted here are the same as I sent to Rikon.

[James Hart]

Jim,

Thanks for clarifying, now I get it. After reading your response and looking back at your earlier posts, I see where I misread the point you were making.

Thanks,

Jim

[Tim Scales]

I had to drive almost 900 miles to Orlando, FL to get a 10-325 at the $750.00 price. I got the thing set up and set the guides....use a 3/4" 3TPI Timberwolf blade...Keep in mind as you read this I have been using a Rockwell 14" with 105" Blade to re-saw with since 1974...Timberwolf on the Rockwell saw will saw straight as an arrow no matter how I have it set! I can saw through 12" 36 inch long and the blade will work perfect every time. SO... that is why I use Timberwolf on all 4 of my saws.
OK back to the 10-325 Rikon problem...After setting it up I cannot get it to re-saw straight...Immediately after starting the cut the blade curves to the left so severely that I can't overcome it and if I continue I ruin the piece...I use a lot of exotics and at $15.00 Bd. Ft I can't take many hits like that.
I tried every adjustment I can do on the Guides and nothng helps. I called Rikon yesterday. The Guy ask if the blade is tracking right...well, no the bottom wheel is not actually tracking as well as the top...ok, he had me loosen the bottom wheel adjustment bolts at top and bottom....then re-align with a 3/4 turn difference. It did help the tracking but not the re-saw problem. Called 'em back...had me to loosen the jam nut for the blde tension and tighten the blade more...well I know this Rikon is a different animal but the Timberwolf has never needed a lot of tension on my other saws...but anyway I did as he said...turn the saw on and po...pop....blead flies off, broke. I get the 1/2" blade that came with it,put it on...well it won't track and keep coming off...so I look at the back bottom wheel adjustment...Hmmm...??? No bottom bolt...It was on the floor. I looked at it and the damn thing is stripped! It had to be cross threaded at the factory! Get anoth 6MM bolt and it would thread up to the point it was snug...but then when I tried to tighten it to align the tracking it slipped.
So ... now I have to tap out the threaded portion of the housing. I am putting or gonna try to put a 1/4" SAE 20 TPI bolt in. The SAE bolt has a courser and deeper thread than the metric 6mm....Man! whatta damn mess. 'Course the CS at Rikon is closed tomorrow (SAT) and it will be Monday before I can get any more help if needed.
Have any of you guys had this problem with a new saw? Also have you had any trouble getting the saw to cut straight when resawing? What did you do to remedy it? I bought this to replace my old Rockwell and buddy, I am very sick about it now. Especially since I hadda drive over 1,700 miles round trip. (This was the only 10-325 I could find in the South Eastern USA. When the new shipment come over from the Great Land of CHINA (I was told it ws Tiawan made) the prices will increase by $250.00 to $300.00 so I am told. Otherwise I would have driven to MO and bought a Grizzly!
I have a lot of Grizzly products and they all are as good as money can buy for my work...I have a Radial Drill press by Rikon and it is a very good piece of equipment. That is the main reason I chose the Rikon 10-2325 and the comments I've read on this site and others plus the price.
I build Appalachian Mtn. Dulcimers and re-saw my wood to 3/16" and then drum sand to 1/8"...my old Rockwell was like myself...just about wore out.
If anyone can shed some light into this problem I will be very grateful and forever more Thankful for the input.
You guys have a great thing going here...keep it up!
If I can ever be of assistance to any of you please let me know.
My web site is, www.blackcreekdulcimers.com (http://www.blackcreekdulcimers.com)
Thanks for any help you can give, Tim

[Jim Dunn]

Sounds like the wheels were not coplanier and that now they are worse than before? Not sure but a stripped out threaded hole would cause me to be on the phone in a heart beat.

I too readjusted the tension nut on my saw but since I use the "flutter test" to set the blades i don't really look at the tension gauge at all.

[Philip Florio]

Interesting Jim,

Who assisted you at Rikon?

I bought my Rikon 10-325 last July. My base came damaged, I sanded it down and treated it with rust protection. I contacted Rikon to get some touch up paint. After repeated e-mails and phone calls with John Leo, months later I received a small sample in a plastic bottle that dried to the consistency of glue.

Again after repeated e-mails and calls I finally added some bite to my request. I sent e-mail again to John Leo and cc it to Woodcraft headquarters. I received no help from Woodcraft headquarters and John Leo snarled at me and gave me the Pantone numbers. Yesterday I went to the Woodcraft store where I bought it. All I got were shrugged shoulders and excuses for Rikon.

I will never buy another Rikon product or any other major purchase from Woodcraft.

Thanks,
Phil