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View Full Version : Norm's Mitre Bench and Storage



Dwain Lambrigger
03-06-2008, 3:14 PM
Has anyone built this? It looks pretty straightforward, and I would like to take it one. Any advise out there? Any tricks?

Thanks,

Dwain

John Cooper2
03-06-2008, 8:06 PM
Here is a thread I found. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=549083#poststop

to me the downside looks to be a tonn of wasted bench space where the saw goes.

I use a miter saw allot, but it is on a rolling cart at the moment, thinking of something that is still portable, but can have some wings that fold up when needed.

Rick Potter
03-07-2008, 2:19 AM
Dwain,

I have a setup somewhat like Norms, with my RAS and chop saw next to each other with a fence (with stops) and 6" wide table off to the left for 4' or so (should have made it 8').

The difference with mine is that the RAS is on its base on top of the table, not set flush with it. It uses the normal RAS table with the additional 6" wide extension mentioned above. The chop saw is immediately to the right of the RAS at the same level.

By having it above the table you have use of the table for cutoffs, tools, and whatever, rather than having to clear a whole table off to make some cuts. It also puts the saws at a more comfortable height for use.

Works great for me.

Rick Potter

Geoff Potter
03-07-2008, 8:40 AM
I am going to build the same bench and I am thinking of making the fences detachable so that the bench area can be used. I also want to incorporate my mortiser on one end and I am going to incorporate a small jig for bisquit cutting. i can't wait to have all that storage!

Greg Caputo
03-07-2008, 12:52 PM
I built one a couple years ago. Modified the plan a bit to fit the length of the wall. Plenty of storage and looks good in the space. Easy to build. About the only thing I wish I had done is to recess the miter saw space so the saw bed would have been flush with the surrounding bench. Otherwise I've happy with the results. I also used Cutlist Plus to help me figure out how many sheets of plywood to buy since there are so many cuts to make and since I modified it to fit my space better. I was really able to get the most out of each sheet because of Cutlist.

Greg

Steve Leverich
03-07-2008, 3:50 PM
Geoff, here's a thought - make your fences so they sit on a flat length of MDF that extends almost to the rear of your bench - then hinge them with piano hinges so they can be tipped up and back to use the bench space, or laid back down (without having to re-align) for use with the chop saw.

This is a variation of my plan, which will use two 2' x 8' butcher block topped benches I got from Costco for $199 each (cheaper than just the tops would have cost elsewhere, come with square tube steel legs with levelers)

If my idea isn't clear (and you want more info) just ask and I'll post a sketch... Steve

Lee Koepke
03-07-2008, 4:38 PM
I like Steves idea. Wish I had heard it 3 months ago !!!

I thru bolted mine, so I can remove if I want to. The base cabinet to the left is solid maple salvaged science casework. The top of the fence is like 12", so I have room for the cut pieces as I work.

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii16/LCKII/Shop%20Tour%202007/ShopRenov2007023.jpg

Ben Cadotte
03-07-2008, 5:47 PM
I am about to do the same thing in my shop. Except on a slightly longer scale. 3 - 8' benches, 36" inbetween the first 2 of the 8' for RAS, and a 2' for my SCMS between the middle and last 8' bench. Only thing I need to change in the plans I have is to now mount the bench mortiser between the RAS and SCMS on the middle 8' bench.

I am going to work on my Table saw first. Going to build a new (3rd generation) extension table to the right with router and base cabinet. Currently its just an extension with open shelves. Also going to add an extension to the left with another router mount. This time going to do them cabinet style instead of open shelves. Make it look a little more presentable.

Goal is to do both in 10 days. :eek: For me that would be amazing though. :rolleyes: Going to use Poplar ply that Borg sells. So about $450 just in sheet goods.

Don Abele
03-07-2008, 5:58 PM
I built mine back in 2003 using the plans as a starting point and then modified from there. As others have said, I don't like the fences being above the table. It makes the top almost useless as any type of work surface. This table has been moved twice now and I don't know if I'll take it with me on my next move. I think I may build a new incorporating flush mounted fences on tracks that can be slid back. Not sure - have to work out the details before then.

Anyway, here's a shot of mine from '03:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=3238&d=1069636325

The thread on it can be found here: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=5025

Be well,

Doc

Geoff Potter
03-07-2008, 6:49 PM
Steve, that's a good idea but I thought I would use some t-nuts and star knobs to hold the fence in place. When I need the bench, remove the fence completely.


Geoff, here's a thought - make your fences so they sit on a flat length of MDF that extends almost to the rear of your bench - then hinge them with piano hinges so they can be tipped up and back to use the bench space, or laid back down (without having to re-align) for use with the chop saw.

This is a variation of my plan, which will use two 2' x 8' butcher block topped benches I got from Costco for $199 each (cheaper than just the tops would have cost elsewhere, come with square tube steel legs with levelers)

If my idea isn't clear (and you want more info) just ask and I'll post a sketch... Steve

Steve Leverich
03-07-2008, 7:12 PM
"t-nuts and star knobs to hold the fence in place"

Thought about that plan and may still go with it - but if I do, I'll add a pair of adjustable stops near the rear of the bench that will stay in place - that way, instead of having to realign the fence each time it's moved, I can just push it up against the stops and tighten the star knobs... Steve

Alison Gray
03-08-2008, 2:24 AM
I plan on building something similar. I am in one stall of 3 car garage and have one long wall. I plan on putting two benches along the wall with the MS in the middle. I am going to recess it and make the fence removable. I also plan on having open bays under one of the benches as I have my planer on a cart that flips up as well as my router table. That way I can store both when not in use and free up some space.

Denny Rice
03-08-2008, 2:46 AM
I purchased the plans for the Mitre Bench and Storage from the NYW last month after seeing it on DIY network a couple of months ago, it looks really cool. I hope to start on it early summer.

Paul Greathouse
03-08-2008, 2:56 AM
Dwain

I built the Norm Miter Bench and Storage that John provided the link to. I have been using it for a little over a year now and I would do it again. It may not be the best option for everyone depending on how you work and how much room you have.

I have a 30X50 shop and have plenty of room for it but in a small shop I think the only advantage to it would be the storage. If you need the top to function as a full work bench it is not the best way to go. I have a 3'X8' work bench on wheels and I also have the Norm Workshop Hutch.

I have one corner of my shop setup almost identical to Norms except I have an EZ smart table setup next to the Miter Bench and Storage. My tablesaw is on the other side of the EZ smart table pretty much in the middle of the shop.

I do alot of small work on the Miter Bench and Storage tabletop. My dovetail jig is on one end and a benchtop drill press dedicated to boring 35mm holes for cabinet doors is on the other end. There is still plenty of room for small parts (stiles, rails, drawer parts, door parts or complete doors) in front of the raised miter saw fence.

The other day I was assembling a small kitchen island on my big work bench and needed room to also assemble a wall cabinet. There was just enough room in front of the miter saw fence for the wall cabinet without feeling cramped.

So to sum it up, if you have alot of room or if you don't need to use the top for assembling large projects it would be a very good addition to your shop.

Barry Nelson
03-08-2008, 6:42 PM
I did the same thing as Lee using the bench top as an infeed table works great,now to get the dust under control,might enclose the back half of it.:)

Reed Wells
03-08-2008, 7:08 PM
This is the MS bench I just finished. It has a chase in the back for 4" dust pipe and elec. conections. This particular MS is used only for cutting face frame parts, drawer parts, 90 degrees and square cut. The dust collector works great. Here is a pict, of it. If there is any interest I will post some more and a little more detail. Also it's on 4" casters.

Clay Crocker
03-09-2008, 9:45 PM
This is my version of Norm's miter bench and storage:

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e169/Crocker85/MiterBench003.jpg

Like others, if found that the original fence design took-up too much bench space, so I designed my fence to flip-up and out of the way when not in use.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e169/Crocker85/MiterBench004.jpg

Clay

Dwain Lambrigger
03-10-2008, 7:33 AM
Clay,

I like what you did. I haven't purchased the plans, and was going to start on my own. I was thinking of lowering the Mitre saw so the bench would could be used, rather than building something up. Also, I wanted to leave one bay open for my Air Compressor, as I would like to run copper around for use in different parts of my garage. Is this your sole workbench? I am in one bay of a three car garage, and this will probably be my only bench. What are your thoughts?

Clay Crocker
03-10-2008, 9:04 AM
Dwain,

I did not purchase the plans either, I had taped the two episodes of NYW where Norm built this project, so I went back and watched the tape quite a few times. I don't see why you could not lower the miter saw. I would just build the top in three separate sections and then just screw the miter saw section between the two base cabinet sections. My pancake air compressor is located inside one of the lower drawers. I have an air hose run up to a ceiling mounted hose reel. The back of my base cabinets stand off from the wall 3-1/2 inches so I get plenty of airflow through the back to supply the air compressor and keep it cool; besides, I don't use a lot of compressed air. I mounted 2X4 ledger strips on the wall and pushed the back of the cabinets up against these and then fastened the cabinets in place w/ screws. When I first built this it was my only stationary workbench; I have since built a 24" X 60" woodworking bench (you can see the twin screw vise in the lower L.H. corner of the first picture). Good luck, if you build it I'm sure you will find it to be a great addition to your shop.

Clay

Ryan Stagg
03-10-2008, 12:05 PM
What's anyone used for drawer slides for this system? Is there an economical route for full-extension slides, or does this just end up being the most expensive component?

Michael Koch
03-10-2008, 7:08 PM
Dwain

I built the bench that you are referring to. I had a recessed window in the middle of a wall so I was able to set the miter saw back as far as possible in order to get as much counter space as possible. The bench offers tons of storage and working space. If you have ample space, you won't regret it.

Steve Hosler
03-12-2008, 8:49 AM
I built one a few years ago.... It is pretty straight forward. You may want to consider getting a metal stop system (like Kreg) for the mitre saw. I retrofitted mine this year and it works great.

It is pretty easy to modify the plans to fit your drawer needs.

Lori Kleinberg
03-16-2008, 7:36 PM
Reed, I like your miter saw set up. That is closer to the size I need. Would be interested in more info and pictures. Thanks.