Bandsaw continued...

[Mark Kelly]

Ok, any way of testing vibrations on a bandsaw? I know I don't have a lot of vibration, more like subtle vibration.

How much vibration should there be, if any?

[Arvin Brown]

How much do you want to spend. There are companies that specialize on obtain vibration measurements on equipment. Also, you can by an accelerometer and test it yourself - not cheap either.

[Mark Kelly]

How much do you want to spend. There are companies that specialize on obtain vibration measurements on equipment. Also, you can by an accelerometer and test it yourself - not cheap either.

Hmmm, wasn't thinking of spending money to find out exactly. I guess I was looking for others who had bandsaw experience tell how their vibrates or not. Also was looking for ideas on how to get rid of unnecessary vibration.

[Donnie Raines]

Make sure that the bandsaw is not "wobbly" on the floor..if it teeter totter's that a problem. Make aure that you do not over tighten the belt...thus make sure the belt is not to loosey goosey. Watch how the blade travels, if it flutters(there is a degree of flutter that is acceptable) to much(and you can tell by how clean/rough the cut line is) you will need to make sure the top and bottom wheels are inline with each other. If they are cock eyed, you will have some vibration.

There could be more...but those are the issues I checked on my Jet 16 inch saw...and they made a dramatic improvement(along with a link belt).


DonnieR

[Mark Kelly]

Make sure that the bandsaw is not "wobbly" on the floor..if it teeter totter's that a problem. Make aure that you do not over tighten the belt...thus make sure the belt is not to loosey goosey. Watch how the blade travels, if it flutters(there is a degree of flutter that is acceptable) to much(and you can tell by how clean/rough the cut line is) you will need to make sure the top and bottom wheels are inline with each other. If they are cock eyed, you will have some vibration.

There could be more...but those are the issues I checked on my Jet 16 inch saw...and they made a dramatic improvement(along with a link belt).


DonnieR

Bandsaw only wabbles if I shake VERY hard...so I am relatively sure it's stable. I will check the belt tonight. The blade travels fine. I do remember the cut is kinda rough (straight crosscut and rip using the fence.) I am using a 1/4" timberwolf blade now. I will check the wheel alignment also. Thanks for the suggestions.

[Mark Kelly]

Belt moves about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch when I press against it. So, it seems ok there.

The wheels are coplanar also. They seem to run smoothly.

One thing I did do was clean the wheels themselves. It seems that sawdust gets in between the blade and the wheel. I don't know hoe much of a difference that would make, but I cleaned it up anyway.

Should I assume everything is fine with the small vibrations I seem to encounter?

[Donnie Raines]

How did it respond to you cleaning the tires?


DonnieR

[Mark Kelly]

seemed to help a little. I cut some soft pine with it afterwards and the cut was a lot smother. I didn't test it with some oak.

Would a dust collector or a shop vac attached to the bandsaw reduce or even eliminate the dust buildup inside the saw (especially on those wheels?) I am waiting right now for a 4" to 2 1/2" adapter to hook up my shop vac (until I can get a real DC.) The dust buildup is amazing and I am not sure just how much a DC will capture considering I find dust just about everywhere!

[Donnie Raines]

Pine pitch build up is about the worse there is..so yes..it will help. What you really need to do is build a bracket that you can attach a brush to, that, as the wheels turn will brush off the dust/grim build up on the tires. In fact, if you have the luxary of doing so, visit your local machinery shop and look at the higher end saws...pop open the door for the wheels and you will most likely see a brush installed that cleans the wheels. Sounds rather involved but it will not be...and well worth the effort.

..But you still need to gather the dust at the source.

DonnieR

[Mark Kelly]

Any type of brush that should be used?

[Donnie Raines]

Good questions....I should have noted that. DO NOT use anything of a wire brush type....your tires would hate you for that. Any soft bristle brush will work fine. Click on the URL below and view Image H. In fact, this entire "walk through" is really good.He does call it a wire brush..but it is not. In the show it was clearly a softer bristle brush.

http://www.diynet.com/diy/wk_tools/article/0,2037,DIY_14429_2278285,00.html

DonnieR

[Alan Turner]

Iturra sells an aftermarket "kit" for installation of a brush. I think it is quite resonable in price, but can't recall exactly. He has an 800 #, and is out of Jacsonville, FL. Great fellow to chat with, and his catalogue is a lesson in itself, esp. on the 14" BS's.
Alan

[Bruce Page]

Mark, I have an `82 Rockwell 14” that had a pretty bad vibration. I traced it down to the cast aluminum drive belt cover (they actually used metal in those days!) I mounted a metal post between the belt cover and the bandsaw body and it eliminated the vibration so well that it easily passes the nickel test. I can post a picture tonight if you would like.

[Dennis McDonaugh]

I can set a penny on edge on the table of my mm16 and it stays there when I start it. Thats a pretty good test for vibration.

[Bruce Page]

I can set a penny on edge on the table of my mm16 and it stays there when I start it. Thats a pretty good test for vibration.

Wanna trade? I’ll even throw in the nickel! :p

[Dominic Greco]

seemed to help a little. I cut some soft pine with it afterwords and the cut was a lot smother. I didn't test it with some oak.

Would a dust collector or a shop vac attached to the bandsaw reduce or even eliminate the dust buildup inside the saw (especially on those wheels?) I am waiting right now for a 4" to 2 1/2" adapter to hook up my shop vac (until I can get a real DC.) The dust buildup is amazing and I am not sure just how much a DC will capture considering I find dust just about everywhere!

Mark,
The bandsaw is the worst culprit for creating fine dust in my shop. Not only will that dust get coated on the tires, it will eventually (with enough exposure) make it's way into your lungs! And that is not good!

I posted a very simple design for a dust collection shroud used at the lower blade guides of a bandsaw. It surrounds the guides on three sides. Air enters the back a creates a draft that pulls the sawdust in.

I'm not sure what size bandsaw you have, but I'm sure with a little work, you could adapt this to work for your particular saw. Check the posts going back about one week. You'll see the plans.

About the dust collector; I'd think of getting one. They are engineered to pick up dust. They are also MUCH quieter than a shop vac. I have a 1 HP Penn State DC1B (retails for $209.99) that has been in use for the last 5-6 years. When hooked up to my bandsaw's (2) 4" dia dust ports, I can get about 80% of the dust. Ask around here for more information on DCs.

Back to vibration. Like you've been told here, you can reduce vibration by installing a link belt. These run about $5 per foot. Depending on your bandsaw, you might need about 5 feet ($25). These belts can do not develop a "memory", or hump from sitting in one position too long. This hump can cause a lot of vibration.

Yet another way of reducing vibration is to replace the cast aluminum V groove sheaves (everyone calls them pulleys, but the ME in me won't let me do that) with machined and balanced cast steel ones. These you can get from McMaster Carr, Grainger, or direct from Browning for a very economical price.

Email me if you have any more questions

[Mark Kelly]

Ordered te catalog today. Thanks for the info.