Grizzly 17" and 1" carbide blades

[Bud Bedwell]

Hi everyone. I'm new to the forum, but over the past week have read everything I could find here on bandsaws and blades. Tons of great information! I'm about ready to drive over to Bellingham Wa and pick up a Grizzly GO513x2 or GO514x2, but I have one issue yet to settle. Is there anyone out there with any of version of the GO513 that uses a 1" carbide blade like the Tri-Master, Woodmaster CT, Resaw King, or the Timberwolf carbide? I know some blade manufacturers don't recommend their 1" blades on 16" or 17" saws, but I've read of MM16 owners who use them successfully. I also read Bill Crofutt's replies to Bill Arnold, where he seems to be saying that although the GO513 won't tension a 1" blade to 20,000 or 30,000 psi, it will tension it enough to perform properly. Does anyone here have any actual experience with this saw and one of these blades? I'd prefer the GO513x2 for a couple of reasons, but would go for the GO514x2 if I had to in order to use the 1" carbide. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

[Eddie Darby]

I can't help you with most of your questions, as I own a 14" Delta with 1 1/2 ponies for a motor. I sure wish I had more when it comes to re-sawing. I get the job done, but it's sometimes a struggle.

I would just go with the bigger bandsaw with the chops to do the job. The added mass from the bigger wheels will help with tougher cuts.

"I'd prefer the GO513x2 for a couple of reasons, but would go for the GO514x2 if I had to in order to use the 1" carbide."

Can you say what those reasons are?

Any blade that is used for cutting wood will heat-up, and when it cools around a form, in the shape of a semi-circle, it will develop cracks.
I actually make sure that I don't favour the same spot on my blades being around the wheel all the time during cool down. I just use the weld to keep track of where my blade is. The tighter that circle, the more stress developed towards cracks.

[bob cohen]

I am not familiar with the grizzly bandsaws, but I can tell you that the 1 inch carbide resaw king blade is incredible. I have had it on my laguna 16 inch bandsaw for about 2 years and could not be happier. It has made all the difference for me; it will cut through most anything and leaves a very nice surface. I was not all that happy with the laguna saw (at least for resawing) until I got the blade--what a difference maker! I have a grizzly 8 inch jointer and have been very happy with it, so I'm guessing their bandsaws are excellent products. What is the wheel diameter of the saws you care considering? The reason I ask is that the 1 inch carbide blade is stiff/brittle and could break when tensioned under a tight radius. The laguna sales rep cautioned that I might have similar problems, even though the wheels on my saw are large diameter than those on most 14 and 15 inch saws. You might want to check the wheel diameters and/or call the laguna sales folk--be a pitty to snap a $250 blade. Good luck with your purchase.

[Bud Bedwell]

Thanks for the replies, Eddie and Bob. Why the GO513x2 over the GO514x2? Mostly cost/benefit. The 514 has an extra one horsepower, but from what I can see, 2 HP is more than adequate for a 12" resaw with a good blade. It has 2" larger wheels, which may help with the blade fatigue Bob mentioned. It has a beefier table support and a brake, which are nice, but not essential. The extra features are nice, but I'm not sure they're worth an extra $350 plus tax. I could be wrong, and if I do go with the 513 I'll more than likely wish I had gone with the 514 at some later date:):) Isn't that the way it always goes?

[Harley Lewis]

Bud, I don't run a carbide blade on my 513, but I do run 1" lennox blades for resawing. I crank up the tension as much as the unit will stand and saw away. I have worn out several timberwolf blades resawing, and the lennox hold up better. What most of the blade manufactures told me when I researched it is I should use no more that 3/4" carbide on the 17 inch saw, and their preference is 1/2 ich. Supposedly has something to do with the carbide brazing???

Harley

[Chris Barnett]

Have the 514X2 and use the Lennox bimetal and others. Will have the carbide Trimaster [about $175 real money :eek:] once the budget recovers from all the other stuff I have needed. The bimmetal works wonders though .... have cut 1/16-in thick veneer with NO CUT MARKS. And the tilt mechanism on this saw is the cat's pajamas. And yes, wish I had gone with the next larger bandsaw already. Wonder if they would accept a trade in? But no kidding, the tilt mechanism is first class.

[Grant Forbes]

I have the 513 and have had the resaw king on it from the get go and have had no issues with cracking or the saw being under powered. I think that they are an excellent combonation.

[Eddie Darby]

Thanks for the replies, Eddie and Bob. Why the GO513x2 over the GO514x2? Mostly cost/benefit. The 514 has an extra one horsepower, but from what I can see, 2 HP is more than adequate for a 12" resaw with a good blade. It has 2" larger wheels, which may help with the blade fatigue Bob mentioned. It has a beefier table support and a brake, which are nice, but not essential. The extra features are nice, but I'm not sure they're worth an extra $350 plus tax. I could be wrong, and if I do go with the 513 I'll more than likely wish I had gone with the 514 at some later date:):) Isn't that the way it always goes?

I would start a thread asking about horse Power and bandsaws.;)

[Bud Bedwell]

Thanks for the replies -- I'm going over to Bellingham Tuesday to actually see and touch the GO513X2 and GO514X2 and ask a few questions. Unless I find something unexpected it looks like the GO513X2 will fit my needs. Thanks again for the help.