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View Full Version : Best way to clean rust off cast iron surface?



Sam Rain
03-04-2008, 8:35 PM
Hi guys,

I'm new here, I was wondering if someone had experience cleaning the tops of there cast iron surfaces. I just got a jointer and it has some rust on the top surface, I wanted to use steel wool and make it smooth.

I planned to buff it with the wool and then go over it with either kerosene or silicone oil. What do you guys think and what would you recommend?

Cheers

Pat Germain
03-04-2008, 8:57 PM
There are lots of ways to clean up cast iron. You could use WD-40 or transmission fluid, for example. Scotch Brite pads work pretty well for the scrubbing part; probably better than steel wool.

If there's a lot of rust on the top, I've heard transmission fluid and the side of a fine grinding wheel works very well. This would be serious overkill for just a little rust.

Once you have the rust removed, be sure to thoroughly clean off any oil. You can use Formula 409, or any other detergent to remove the oil and get it squeaky clean.

Then apply a few coats of wax. You can use Johnson's Paste wax, Renaissance Wax, or any of the many cast iron treatments you find at woodworking stores. Wipe on, let it dry to a haze, then buff it out with a soft cloth.

Have fun! You'll be surprised how rewarding it can be to restore a used power tool.

Russ Ambrose
03-04-2008, 9:36 PM
but i've had great success using 0000 steel wool w/ mineral spirits to remove rust when it occurs. i use TopCote pretty regularly to keep the rust at bay.

matt dumney
03-04-2008, 9:57 PM
HOw about the Rust-Free product and Bo-shield? That's recommended solution also.

Sam Rain
03-04-2008, 10:24 PM
Wow guys, thanks for all your help.

It's very little rust BTW, so I should be fine with this job. But, I should try and get some of that wax stuff for the surface after it's clean.

Thanks again,;)

Mike Heidrick
03-04-2008, 10:26 PM
HOw about the Rust-Free product and Bo-shield? That's recommended solution also.

QFT

Rust Free, green scratchie if needed, Paste Wax afterwards for table tops, T9 for other surfaces.

Works great on my WW equipment and my tractor equipment.

paul wiser
03-04-2008, 10:48 PM
check the klingspor catalog. they have abrasive sponges in various grits made for rust removal. work great

Kyle Costlow
03-04-2008, 10:53 PM
So you shouldn't use the T-9 on the table top? oops...

Mike Heidrick
03-04-2008, 11:00 PM
You can use T9 on the top. I just use paste wax myself. I leave the T9 thick one the outsides of my machinery. It dries kind of tacky and really gives a nice protective barrier on my tools. It has kept my Deere pallet forks rust free all winter and I leave them outside in IL rain and snow.

Kyle Costlow
03-04-2008, 11:21 PM
I have both (paste wax, and T-9)which one is better to use for a table saw top? To get the T-9 off I just use a bit of mineral spirits right?

Jon Lanier
03-04-2008, 11:44 PM
Coca-Cola over night, then Naval Jelly, then use an ocilating sander with 320 grit, then steal wool it.

Paul Fitzgerald
03-04-2008, 11:59 PM
I've had good experience removing light surface rust with a synthetic steel wool pad. 3M makes several "grits", but a scotch brite pad should work just as well. I've not needed WD40, Rust-Free, etc.


I have both (paste wax, and T-9)which one is better to use for a table saw top? To get the T-9 off I just use a bit of mineral spirits right?

I use both. T9 Boeshield for protection and wax for slickness.

First, clean the surface very well with a solvent such as mineral spirits. Once that all flashes off, spray the surface liberally with T9 Boeshield and massage it into the surface with a clean lint-free cotton cloth. Let that dry overnight.

The next day, the surface should be kind of tacky. Pressing your finger onto the surface should leave a fingerprint. Buff the surface with a clean lint-free cotton cloth to prepare the surface for waxing. Finally, I put on three coats of Renaissance Wax, buffing between coats. Just don't use car wax or anything with silicone in it.

It can be EXTREMELY humid here in Memphis, so I find I usually need to reapply wax every 6 weeks or so (depending on how often I use the tools) and reapply the Boeshield and wax at least twice a year.

Paul

Wayne Cannon
03-05-2008, 2:26 AM
I've found Empire "Top Saver" (http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=4948) to work better than any other solution I've tried for removing rust -- it removes it quite well and with surprisingly little effort, even for serious bulbous rust from mouse urine! I've tried WD-40, Naval Jelly, mineral spirits, kerosene, Boeshield T9, and all manner of abrasives; but all require significantly more effort. I haven't tried Boeshield RustFree.

I personally prefer Top-Cote or paste wax for protection and a smooth, gliding surface.

Eddie Darby
03-05-2008, 8:54 AM
I treat my tops with T-9 and then Top Coat on top of that.

Works great.

For major rust removal, which I know is not the case here, but if I had to, I would try Evapo-Rust, only because people who know their tools have recommended it to me. It was said that it has done a better job than even electrolysis.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=58771&cat=51&ap=2

Before n' After pic.

http://www.leevalley.com/images/item/Woodworking/Finishing/56z8061v1b.jpg

http://www.leevalley.com/images/item/Woodworking/Finishing/56z8061v2.jpg

Eddie Darby
03-05-2008, 9:01 AM
I planned to buff it with the wool and then go over it with either kerosene or silicone oil. What do you guys think and what would you recommend?Cheers

I would stay away from silicone based products, because they can cause problems with gluing, and finishing wood work pieces.