Chairs the real deal....

[Mark Singer]

The last tutorial was on making a prototype. Now I am working in quarter-sawn oak and making the first 2 chairs from my templates after making very minor modifications. I lowered the back 1" and I shortened the front to back distance 1". Now I am working with mortices using my slot mortiser on the MiniMax J/P /Mortiser . By making an inclined table at 9.6 degrees, the tenons will approximate the curve of the rear top stretcher. This was something I used to make an inclined jig and use a router. It is one of the things that makes chairs a little tough to figure out and construct. I realize that many of you don't have a slot motiser and for years I didn't either, just make a router jig. The legs were paired and shaped together using rasps ...I included my shop built bandsaw table which is really great on angled cuts and precise sizing of legs etc. The last photo shows my Japanese mortise gauge another specialty tool that was given to me by Chris Fedderschon from Palomar College woodworking school on a recent trip to Japan

[Roy Wall]

watching........and learning.........

[gary Zimmel]

Thanks Mark

Can't wait to see the finished piece.

[Warren Clemans]

The last photo shows my Japanese mortise gauge another specialty tool that was given to me by Chris Fedderschon from Palomar College woodworking school on a recent trip to Japan

I'd love to hear more about what this is and what it does. How does it help with laying out mortises? I couldn't figure it out by looking at it.

Thanks--and thanks for taking the time to do the tutorials. I love this stuff.

Cheers,
Warren

[Lars Thomas]

Ohhhh, this is going to be good. Watching, waiting....

I'm still building up the nerve to tackle my first chair. I've purchased the wood, so I am running out of excuses.

[Tom Ruflin]

Mark,

I just want to thank you for taking the time to post the tutorials. As the others have said, watching and learning.

[Don Bullock]

As I told you before Mark, I think it takes a true craftsman to make chairs. To be able to make them and explain the process for us to read, see and hopefully understand is priceless. It takes a master craftsman to pull it off which you do here often. Thank you.

[Mark Singer]

Don,
Thank you! I have been doing this for a while and it is a matter of knowing what factors are important and really making sure you figure them out. When I was making prototypes for chair and furniture manufacturers of my designs, I learned many varied techniques for chair making and design. My prototypes were shipped over to Europe for Sitag International. Here I worked with Della Robbia and many of my homes have appeared in their ads in magazines for years. The best way to learn is by doing. I made plenty of mistakes and when you are designing and building prototypes its an experiment by its nature. The first chairs have a certain raw beauty that seems lost in the models that follow. It is exciting to watch designs become reality and especially when you can work fast and see the results quickly.

[Mark Singer]

I'd love to hear more about what this is and what it does. How does it help with laying out mortises? I couldn't figure it out by looking at it.

Thanks--and thanks for taking the time to do the tutorials. I love this stuff.

Cheers,
Warren

Warren,
I don't think it is available in the US. It is almost like a square and caliper combined. It allows you to layout from the edges of the board, marking center lines or mortise perimeters and match from one board to the mate. It also allows checking the height of the bit from the morticing table and match
to the board

[Mark Singer]

Here are some pics of the mortice gauge

[Jim Becker]

Kewel measuring device, Mark! And thanks for starting yet another wonderful tutorial/pictorial!

[Bill Wyko]

Mark, your work is always amazing, I look forward to seeing the finish chairs.

[Warren Clemans]

Very interesting--I wonder if someone like Japan Woodworker or one of the other specialty importers would be able to get it. Looks like a very useful tool.

[Bruce Page]

Warren,
I don't think it is available in the US. It is almost like a square and caliper combined. It allows you to layout from the edges of the board, marking center lines or mortise perimeters and match from one board to the mate. It also allows checking the height of the bit from the morticing table and match
to the board

Mark, who is the mortise gauge manufacturer?
That would also be a useful tool in the metal working world.

[Mark Singer]

Bruce,
It says Matsui Measure Mfg. Co., Ltd.

[Mark Singer]

It is important to sketch the critical connections. Rear seat to side stretcher occur in the same members and they are close. By carefully arranging the tenons you can avoid a problem. The top back stretcher will flush at the rear with the long rear leg. Then the leg is shaped to make a smooth curving plane. Same is true on the front although I start with the stretch recessed and then blend. Other details like the front leg are more typical..

[Glenn Clabo]

I have asked this company if they continue to manufacture this tool. I'll report back if they do.

[Bruce Page]

I have asked this company if they continue to manufacture this tool. I'll report back if they do.

I found the company the other day. I couldn't find any info on the tool.

[Mark Singer]

I found the company the other day. I couldn't find any info on the tool.

I have had it for a year I would guess so its probably still manufactured. The lower blade registers on the side of the board and the upper slides on the face or edge for measuring or marking, then I can take it to the mortiser and set the bit height.

[Mark Singer]

I made forms from an old table top to curve the rear slats. 5 laminations yields 3/4 " thickness. All pieces were re sawed and then run through the drum sander . I made 2 forms to make things go faster. I did 2 in the morning and 2 at the end of the day. While they were drying , I worked on the angled mortices. I made a trial fit and it was very good. You can see the angle of the tenon will follow the curve of the back. That way when you shape the back the tenon stays safely within solid back

[Mark Singer]

here is another pic for the pic relishers:rolleyes:

[Mark Singer]

I have continued on the chairs. Making all of the parts. Assembly of the back and the front. Gluing up and shaping. The slats are setback the distance based on the curvature which is about 1/4" at the top slats and 3/16" for the lower two. I made a jig to drill the dowel locations for the slats after they were carefully sized using my sled. Measurements were based on a dry assembly and taking internal measurements using a bar gauge. After glue up I shaped the back using rasps and my Rotex to make a sculptured plane. You must pay careful attention to the layers of veneer in the slats, you could sand through them. The wood is about 3/16" thick at each layer. The back of this chair is where most of the skill and work is required. You must have a feeling for sculpturing wood and you must be dead on on the joinery and measurements. Carelessness here leads to a not so great result . So far so good. The rasps really help to refine contours in a process that requires a lot of comparing by eye. I adapted my bench for chair construction with versatile hold downs that really help.

[Mark Singer]

Here are some more....

[Mark Singer]

Here are a few more...

[Jim Becker]

Those are just wonderful, Mark!

[Mark Singer]

This morning I shaped the second chair. It takes about 2 hours per chair to blend the contours of the slats and stretchers . I try not to change the line from the pattern on the outer side. Where I do alter it I must sight it carefully and refine the line for a gentle blending contour. Next step Is to attach the back and the fronts which are also glued up . The side stretchers will make that connection of front to back creating the chair form. Then the ledgers for the seat and finally the seat planks are installed. Chairs take time especially sculptured chairs with curved laminated backs.

[Mark Singer]

I am still making progress, chairs do take time! I have the basic structure assembled and glued. I have been working on the arms. I am using a sliding mortise and tenon joint. This allows the 3/4" dowel to engage in the arm in a hole that I drilled. The resulting detail is a reveal that allows the flowing line of the rear leg to read rather than become part of the monolithic mass. I used my slot mortiser to drill the arm and a stubby dowel with a nail dead center to precisely locate the dowel center in the blue tape pasted on the back leg. Then I drilled by hand holding a level. Fit was good. Cushions are still temporary. Comfort is really nice. I think I have another day or 2 and I am there.

[Ryan Singer]

I can't wait to sit in it with my big butt!!!

[Mark Singer]

Now I have completed the chair. The seat ledgers and the seat boards are complete. Everything is sanded and the next step is oil wax mixture. The arm reveal is formed and the dowel was dyed black before glue up. The arm was also shaped to meet the slope of the back. I tilted the table on my oscillating spindle sander for that angle of 9 degrees

[Mark Singer]

After first coat of oil you begin to appreciate the wood. Now the importance of the design for joinery is realized as the joints are very tight and not a lot of effort was required , just basic skills and most importantly considering joinery in the initial design

[Mark Singer]

I'm on a roll (actually a bagel):rolleyes:

[Gary Herrmann]

Great choice on the wood, Mark. I really like how the medullary rays change direction emphasizing the shape of the chair.

[Mark Singer]

Gary Thanks! Oak is a difficult wood compared to walnut or Paduk , but I do love the grain and the timeless feel. Especially interesting on a modern chair when it is typically seen on antiques . I lot mixing things up every now and then:rolleyes:

[Michael Pfau]

Great tutorial Mark. I don't own a slot mortiser, all the chairs I have built have been with a regular delta mortiser, as seen on my website. Slot mortiser's are cool though!! Very fast.