First-time Milk Paint User

[Keith Beck]

I'm putting the finishing touches on a desk I built for my daughter. It's Poplar painted with General Finishes Milk Paint. Has anyone used GF Milk Paint before? I was really quite surprised at how thick this stuff is. No matter how much I shake or stir it, it's like painting with pudding. Don't get me wrong, I think it looks great, I'm just mystified with the thickness. Is this normal?

Secondly, is the Milk Paint alone a durable enough finish for a desk? Should I use some sort of top coat over it? If the answer is yes, should I go with GF's top coat or is there something else I can use? I'm not set up to do any spraying right now, so it'll have to be wiped-on or brushed. Also, since the color I used is Antique White, I don't want to put on anything that'll darken the color.

Thanks for your help.

Keith

[Sam Yerardi]

Keith,

I have not used that particular brand. You need to find out what the manufacturer recommends for thinning their milk paint. It is typically water but check with them. Normally it is used with at least the consistency of cream. I don't think I would put anything over the milk paint once it goes on. The first coat seals and the second coat covers. Milk paint doesn't do too well over finishes as it is meant for bare wood. The second coat may look bad but hang in there as it will look incredibly flat and you may see brush strokes. You may want to rub it out with a clean cotton rag when you are done. Milk paint finishes last an eternity.

[Mark Patoka]

I've only used milk paint once and it was the dry powder that comes in a bag so I had to mix it myself, and it was rather thick and gritty. Mine was on a classroom cabinet so it wasn't used like your desk will be. If I remember correctly, I just put a water-based poly over it to give it extra protection without changing the mustard yellow color I used.

[Larry Fox]

I have used GF Milk Paint before and it is definitly a little on the thick side but I have thinned it before with good results. I have even sprayed it before which it definitely needs to be thinned to do. In terms of topcoat - I would say that, yes, you do need one. I have used shellac, GF Poly/Acrylic and Target Coating USL over it with good results. In my opinion, the USL looked and turned out the best.

[Steve Schoene]

General Finishes Milk Paint isn't, milk paint that is. It is an acyrlic waterborne paint in colors similar to milk paint and has a flat sheen. It will perform like other flat paints, including the prospect of some burnishing where it is touched. It appears to be 100% acyrlic so that stuff won't stick to it (block) like older generation latex paints. It should work fine on the desk.

True milk paint is a different animal. You can't buy any in liquid form because it is usable for only a short time after mixing. This is the stuff that lasts forever, though it will water spot unless sealed by something like a oil/varnish mix. It is a bit coarse and gritty so a light sanding is called for to smooth it up unless you are looking for an old "country" look and feel.

[Sam Yerardi]

Seems like there ought to be a law against vendors selling something that's one thing but calling it something different. I know finish vendors do it all the time. It would be like McDonalds selling a cheeseburger in a wrapper that says Fish Fillet. And then McDonalds tells you it is just like a Fish Fillet but better. ;)

[Steve Schoene]

I kind of agree, however, it doesn't take much to figure it out. The second sentence in the on-line descriptions says acyrlic paint, and the data sheet says it in bold print near the top. You might be fooled if you only look at the front of the can, but mostly I can't have a whole lot of sympathy for people who buy products that are new to them without reading some of the back label or looking at the product data sheet on-line. It's really pretty basic.

[Rob Tolentino]

I've used GF milk paint on a couple of kids projects. As posted before, it is not genuine milk paint. However, it is very easy to use. I'm not sure if it is the shelf life or not, but the ones I've used had the consistency of regular paint. I topcoated them with GF polycrilic matte finish for one project and the satin for another project. Both came out fine and durable enough for a desk. Visit their website for some additional hints.