Saw Rehab Help

[Keith Beck]

I found a Disston back saw in a pawn shop a few weekends ago that I thought would be a fun project to rehab. Like I don't have enough of those lined up already!

The saw seems to be fairly sharp, but pretty rusty. If the blade can be saved, I hope to make a new handle for it.

Well, I took my first stab at cleaning up the blade with a some WD40, Fantastic, and a Brillo pad. The results were less than impressive to say the least.

Here's what it looked like before:

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j114/ldoforcno/DSC03240.jpg

Here's the after:

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j114/ldoforcno/DSC03241.jpg

Not much difference, huh?

So, can this thing be saved or am I wasting my time? Any tips on what I should use? On the bright side, if it is a lost cause, I'm only out $3.

Thanks.

Keith

[Jim Koepke]

So, can this thing be saved or am I wasting my time? Any tips on what I should use? On the bright side, if it is a lost cause, I'm only out $3.

Mine is not as rusty though. You may want to soak it in citric acid or try the electrolysis treatment.

Search here for both of those or find information on the web.

jim

[Clint Jones]

Use a sanding block and 220 grit sandpaper to remove the rust. Its ok if you do the sides of the teeth also. Next wax the blade with parafin. You can use a slim taper file to sharpen the blade and pick up a saw set (42x) to set the teeth. The handle looks kinda boxy I would take a rasp to it and shape it like an older style handle and then finish with a paste wax. -Clint

[Keith Beck]

Clint,

Aha, sandpaper! It's so obvious I don't know why I didn't think of it. As for the handle, if I can get the blade into decent shape, I want to make a new handle. Do you know of any tutorials on making a back saw handle?

Keith

[Clint Jones]

http://norsewoodsmith.com/node/73

The best one.

[Don C Peterson]

After the worst of the rust is scraped off, I like to start with 220 and work up to about 400 sandpaper with mineral spirits as a lubricant.

[Mark Stutz]

Kieth, you might try scraping with a razor blade, lubricate with mineral spirits. Before making a new handle, try going at the current one with rasps and files. This will give you some practice shaping the handle and let you try things out. Who knows, there might be a gem lurking inside that one! After some practice, you can go after that nice piece of cocbolo!

Mark

[Ruston Hughes]

I've also used razor blades and sandpaper (180 grit) with good results (both lubricated with mineral spirits). As long as there is no pitting the saw should clean up well (although some discoloration may remain).

The back on the saw will also need to be repositioned. It needs to be flush with the front of the saw; looks like yours has been knocked back a 1/4" or so.

[Keith Beck]

The back on the saw will also need to be repositioned. It needs to be flush with the front of the saw; looks like yours has been knocked back a 1/4" or so.

See, that's something I wouldn't even have known! That's why I like visiting here... for the wealth of knowledge.

Do I just give the saw back a whack on the handle end with a hammer to get it back to where it belongs?

Also, thanks to everyone for your ideas. I'll give 'em a shot and report back on the outcome.

Keith

[Ruston Hughes]

Keith,

Yes, you can use a hammer to tap the back into position. Don't get too carried away with this. If the blade is not seated correctly in the back it can cause it to bow along the toothed edge.

There's a ton of good saw rehab information at the site Clint provided above. I've found it extremely valuable.

[josh bjork]

I'd knock the back off and start with 80 grit ROS. It looks pitted to me but that doesn't mean you can't use it to cut wood. If you take the back off you can also see how straight the blade is.

[Jim Newman]

I have been using an electolysis bath to take rust off tools and equipment from my lab with great results. I would suggest giving it a try as this is a late Disston saw and not an old classic. This will get all the rust out of the pores, which will add longevity to your hard work. All you need is a 1/2 cup sodium carbonate or bicarbonate, a couple pieces of rebar and a 5 gallon bucket and battery charger. Lots of info in a google search. I have done what everyone is suggesting and it is a lot of work. Best of luck!

[Frederick Rowe]

Keith,
I'm just ahead of you starting to rehab old saws. First off, I'd recommend not using sandpaper, yet. Electrolytic rust removal is easy. For less than $3 the Arm & Hammer washing soda cost me, I cleaned up a Stanley #3 better than naval jelly, citric acid, or WD40. Plenty of YouTube videos and tutorials on the web. Just remember, washing powder, not baking soda (sodium carbonate v. sodium bicarbonate).

I recently bought the Tom Law DVD on saw sharpening, and it is great. If you are interested, PM me with your mailing address, I'd be happy to loan it to you. Some things you need to see to learn.

Here's my a $3 auction after sharpening and rust removal.