PDA

View Full Version : Can I see some over-blade TS dust collection pics?



Larry Fox
03-03-2008, 2:19 PM
I am wrapping up my DC install and want to build a hood / guard with dust collection to go over the blade of the TS to pickup the stuff that spews off the blade. I know that many here have built them and would like to get some design ideas from those willing to share. I currently have the arm assembly and all that, just looking for the hood / guard.

Thanks in advance for your time . . .

Larry

Todd Franks
03-03-2008, 2:51 PM
Here is a thread containing my homemade guard.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=10983

Todd Crow
03-03-2008, 3:14 PM
Here is what I have for a guard/dust hood on my tablesaw.

I took the factory hood off and made this one out of Lexan. It mounts on the original guard mount and I have it on a long bolt so that it can be pushed to one side or the other depending on needs.

Todd

http://www.crowsnest.us/images/DCP_0041.JPG

Larry Fox
03-03-2008, 3:14 PM
Todd Franks - that looks exactly like what I want to build. Any way I could get you to share the measurements on it? I have the Bies overarm guard and the basket would just be an unbolt / bolt job and run the hose. How did you join the pieces of Lexan? Did you glue them, screw them together, both?

Todd crow - interesting design, how does it move up and down to accomodate different thicknesses?

Thanks in advance for your time . . .

Larry

Mike Cutler
03-03-2008, 4:29 PM
Larry

Mine is essentially the same as Todd's. We both got our inspiration from Gordon Sampson's article in the Wood Central board archives. Mine is suspended from the ceiling though.

It works just fine. It easily passed the MDF Test. (No perceivable dust in the air on long cut)
Only issue I have had with it is that I switched to a JessEm Mast-R- Slide shortly after making it, and the aluminum extrusion requires the dust pick up to be about 3' off the table, if I want it close to the cut.

Larry Fox
03-03-2008, 4:51 PM
Humm - interesting. I ahve the Mast-R-Slide also. I appreciate the info - I will head on over to Wood Central and see if I cna find the thread.

Edit - found it, exactly what I needed - thanks guys.

Jerry White
03-03-2008, 5:32 PM
Larry,

Like you, I am using the Biesemeyer over arm assembly, also with the Biesemeyer splitter. The dust collection on the standard guard that came with the Biesemeyer was unsatisfactory due to the undersized port. I was looking for a fix when I came accross the Sharkguard. Lee Styron makes a Sharkguard model adapted just to this setup. The dust collection is very good with a 4 inch port. Here is a picture of my current setup:

Edit: This is what I get for trying to do two things at once. After re-reading your post, I don't see where you said Biesemeyer at all! Sorry. But take a look at Sharguard anyway, there are several configurations.

http://www.leestyron.com/sharkguard.php

Todd Crow
03-03-2008, 5:45 PM
Larry,

The guard is mounted to an arm that pivots on the pack of the splitter.

Todd

John Thompson
03-03-2008, 7:34 PM
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showpost.php?p=641343&postcount=3
Sarge..

Larry Fox
03-03-2008, 8:12 PM
Larry,

Like you, I am using the Biesemeyer over arm assembly, also with the Biesemeyer splitter. The dust collection on the standard guard that came with the Biesemeyer was unsatisfactory due to the undersized port. I was looking for a fix when I came accross the Sharkguard. Lee Styron makes a Sharkguard model adapted just to this setup. The dust collection is very good with a 4 inch port. Here is a picture of my current setup:

Edit: This is what I get for trying to do two things at once. After re-reading your post, I don't see where you said Biesemeyer at all! Sorry. But take a look at Sharguard anyway, there are several configurations.

http://www.leestyron.com/sharkguard.php

Jerry - your first reaction was correct. I have a Bies overarm guard, Bies splitter and Bies fence. I appreciate your time - I will take a look at the guard.

Larry Conely
03-03-2008, 9:00 PM
This is my INCA guard. The saw has a shrouded, enclosed dust collection system which is excellent, but I figured it can't hurt to help it a bit. I cut a hole in the top of the guard and bolted on a Woodcraft fitting sealed with caulk.

Shop Notes #92 had an excellent article on building an overhead guard from scratch. It had a couple novel features, including a baffle directing the dust directly to the pickup (which I added to mine.)

Bob Opsitos
03-03-2008, 9:09 PM
Here's mine. Made from a European DeWALT TGS overam guard.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v705/ropsitos/Tools/P2190033.jpg

Bob

Todd Franks
03-04-2008, 12:37 AM
Larry,

I've attached a low quality PDF of the dimensions of the guard only. I have a CAD drawing of the entire guard so if you need dimensions of the metal work also, just let me know and I can create those PDFs too.

As far as assembly I just screwed the Lexan together, no glue. I was able to drill and tap the Lexan.

Hope this helps,
-Todd

Larry Fox
03-04-2008, 10:06 AM
Wow - thanks for that Todd, I really appreciate it. Decision at this point is between this and the SharkGuard. If I can source the materials cheaply enough I am going to build this one, if the materials start to approach the $72.00 for the SharkGuard I will likely go that route - they both look like spot-on solutions.

Greg Cole
03-04-2008, 10:24 AM
Larry,
FWIW, the shark guards are nice, very nice. I ordered the newest version with 4" DC port, some say you can suck up small pieces in the 4" port.
I will say you need to be patient and a little more patient and then sit back and relax.... I ordered my shark in October and it showed up early Feb. It's definately worth the $, but the wait was frustrating, considering I manicured a fingertip on my jointer in December I might have been less patient than normal (maybe not possible if ya ask LOML though...:rolleyes:).
Lee says his deliveries should be better now as he's got dedicated centers for machining-milling the different materials, so his set up times etc are much less..... so better luck to you on delivery time if you order one.
I'd been happy with the snap in micro splitter, but the over table DC is just GREAT & having a blade guard actually ON THE SAW (not the wall near the saw) adds one more layer of safety from the blade.

Cheers.
Greg

Larry Fox
03-04-2008, 3:09 PM
Larry,

I've attached a low quality PDF of the dimensions of the guard only. I have a CAD drawing of the entire guard so if you need dimensions of the metal work also, just let me know and I can create those PDFs too.

As far as assembly I just screwed the Lexan together, no glue. I was able to drill and tap the Lexan.

Hope this helps,
-Todd

Todd - this is just what I needed. After doing some looking around for materials and combined with the wait time for a SharkGuard I decided to build this one. The dimensions on the WC article are really hard to read and yours are reall, really easy so I certainlya ppreciate that. I was not able to score 3/8" Lexan (well, I was for $120) but I did manage to find some 1/4" so I am using that. Only concern I have is being able to have enough meat to drill and tap into but I think I will if I am careful.

Todd Franks
03-04-2008, 10:40 PM
Larry,

If I had it to do over again I think I would use 1/4" Lexan anyway. The 3/8" turned out to be quite heavy. I think I used #6-32 screws, if you're really careful you can probably get away with it. If you're worried about blowing out the side and go with #4-40 screws I would recommend going with stainless screws for strength. Even though I tapped the Lexan I remember the screws drove in really hard and I'd be worried regular zinc #4 screws would snap off.

I didn't label the parts in my PDF so hopefully you can figure out which pieces are which and which have the 22.5 deg bevel. I'd be glad to help if you have any other questions.

Larry Fox
03-04-2008, 11:32 PM
Larry,

If I had it to do over again I think I would use 1/4" Lexan anyway. The 3/8" turned out to be quite heavy. I think I used #6-32 screws, if you're really careful you can probably get away with it. If you're worried about blowing out the side and go with #4-40 screws I would recommend going with stainless screws for strength. Even though I tapped the Lexan I remember the screws drove in really hard and I'd be worried regular zinc #4 screws would snap off.

I didn't label the parts in my PDF so hopefully you can figure out which pieces are which and which have the 22.5 deg bevel. I'd be glad to help if you have any other questions.

Appreciate the offer Todd - I like the idea of the #4 screws. I made all the cuts tonight and followed your measurements. It was fairly straight forward to figure out the 45's vs the 22.5's after I cut the side pieces. The angle cuts on some of the smaller ones were a little dicey and I really had to stop and decide on the safest way to make them. Imagine the irony of an accident while MAKING the blade guard. :)