Progress on my table

[Amy Leigh Baker]

In order to make sure this table was actually built, I am attaching pictures :D

I am far enough along now that several different stages of cuts are coming together and I am starting to see where things might not line up exactly. Keep in mind I am a perfectionist in the strictest sense of the word. The reason there is no fourth rail is in order to have the storage I need I am putting a drawer on the front to act as a false rail. Several people here warned me that the 3" legs were pretty big. I agree, but I like them. Oh, and these rails are just taped on to see what it looks like. The legs are complete, and the rails are cut to thre right length, though.

My greatest challenges are not having the proper tools, not having a proper workspace, and not having enough time. Big surprise, right?

[Greg Hines, MD]

How are you going to attach the rails to the legs? Dowels or biscuits? Just glue?

It looks like a good base.

Doc

[Amy Leigh Baker]

Biscuits to join the ends of the rails. Not sure how I will join the rails to the legs yet. Probably just glue, unless the overwhelming majority says I need something more. If I use more than glue, it will be biscuits as well.

Amy

[Greg Hines, MD]

Biscuits to join the ends of the rails. Not sure how I will join the rails to the legs yet. Probably just glue, unless the overwhelming majority says I need something more. If I use more than glue, it will be biscuits as well.

Amy


I could be wrong, but I don't think that glue alone would be sufficient. Even the extra strong glues, like polyurethane, would fail in that situation.

If it were me, I would use dowels to reinforce it.

Doc

[Norman Pyles]

I think glue will be enough, to hold the aprons to the legs.

[Jason Scott]

You could join with glue and then put a couple dowels of contrasting color in, not only would it give it the strenght but it would look great!

[J. Z. Guest]

Probably just glue, unless the overwhelming majority says I need something more. If I use more than glue, it will be biscuits as well.Glue will be plenty, since the gluing surfaces are face and edge grain & not end grain. Glue is stronger than the wood itself, assuming the joint fits.

Half lap joints are great because the glue area is so large.

Very elegant, how you beveled the aprons so no end grain will show when it is completed.

One suggestion though: Make the fourth apron and have the drawer fit into that apron. The framework will be so much stronger with that fourth apron, even if it has a large cutout for the drawer. Maybe you're planning something like this already.

It looks great so far, keep us posted.

Red Oak, right? I love that stuff. To me, the reddish color it has is so much more attractive than White Oak. I like it with just a couple coats of poly. White Oak with the same treatment always looks a little sickly & green in comparison. (to me, at least)

[Greg Hines, MD]

You could join with glue and then put a couple dowels of contrasting color in, not only would it give it the strenght but it would look great!


If you are wanting to expand your range with dowels, you might try Miller dowels. They come in a variety of species, and work great in projects like this.

Doc

[FRITZ STOOP]

If you are wanting to expand your range with dowels, you might try Miller dowels. They come in a variety of species, and work great in projects like this.

Doc

My experience with Miller dowels is negative. They look good when used for contrast details and are simple to apply, but when I tested the joint they snapped at the glue line. These were walnut, in oak. The deeper they are driven into the wood, the dowels diminish significantly in diameter relative to the size of the head and apparently in strength as well. MTC :(

[Amy Leigh Baker]

One suggestion though: Make the fourth apron and have the drawer fit into that apron. The framework will be so much stronger with that fourth apron, even if it has a large cutout for the drawer. Maybe you're planning something like this already.

Well, that was my original thought, but since the apron is only 3" I couldn't figure out how I would locate the drawer inside that space and still have enough room for actual storage space. Providing I left only 1/4" on the top and bottom of the apron, the drawer box was the exact same height as the drawer face, and I used 1/4" for the drawer bottom, butt jointed to the bottom (which doesn't seem very strong to me), I would have approximately 2 1/4 inch drawer space. But I would want a drawer face that is slightly bigger in order to stop at the apron, and a bottom that was a little stronger.


Red Oak, right? I love that stuff. To me, the reddish color it has is so much more attractive than White Oak. I like it with just a couple coats of poly. White Oak with the same treatment always looks a little sickly & green in comparison. (to me, at least)

Yes, it is red oak. I love oak, and luckily it is easy for me to find around here. We don't have much other than the borg. But bottom line, it will go well with my bedroom set.


It looks great so far, keep us posted.

Thank you!

Here's a link to the design thread for this table. As you can see, I am very indecisive and the design has changed several times.

Amy

http://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=74784

[David DeCristoforo]

I really like the simplicity of this table. As to the question of how durable it will be with the legs glued to the aprons with no additional joinery, I would think it would be OK with the 3" wide apron providing sufficient gluing surface. However, if it was me, I would run some screws through the tops of the legs into the aprons from the "inside" to reinforce the joints. You would want to be careful to get the maximum penetration into the aprons while at the same time not running the screws through the apron faces. This will involve some careful pre-drilling and counterboring as necessary based on the exact length of the screws. This will not present too much of a technical challenge but everyone will sleep better knowing that you are not 100% dependent on the glue.

YM

[Lee Koepke]

are you still planning on a glass top?

can you put some corner braces that fit behind the legs and help support the aprons?

[Amy Leigh Baker]

are you still planning on a glass top?

can you put some corner braces that fit behind the legs and help support the aprons?

No glass top after all. Not really practical for a make-up table, and I wanted to add the drawer underneath.

Corner braces how? If I need them I will figure something out, but I'm hoping that the three aprons with the tabletop attached that it won't need much else. After attaching those three aprons I plan on building then attaching the top, so I should be able to guage the sturdiness at that point.

Amy

[George Bregar]

If it were me, I would add a mechanical fastener to the apron leg connection. And corner blocks. As designed the table is subject to racking and that leg/apron joint is cross grain. You can also use the corner blocks to secure the top. On the front where there is no apron, drill holes that are the size of the screw...the top will act as a front apron. Elongate the rear corner block holes to allow movement.

[Lee Koepke]

No glass top after all. Not really practical for a make-up table, and I wanted to add the drawer underneath.

Corner braces how? If I need them I will figure something out, but I'm hoping that the three aprons with the tabletop attached that it won't need much else. After attaching those three aprons I plan on building then attaching the top, so I should be able to guage the sturdiness at that point.

Amy
something along the lines of this ... and dont forget to take into account wood movement in the top. I am no expert, but I would be careful when relying on the top to provide the stability. Braces like this should help the apron and legs.

[Joe Unni]

Amy,

Glue alone, screws, Miller dowels (I've used hundreds), and corner blocks will all work. However, I think maybe a bigger concern right now would be to ensure that your miters (or bevels) come together without any gaps. The longer you wait the more potential for the aprons to move (i.e. bow, twist, etc.), in turn creating a misaligned joint. Whatever your decision I would glue up the aprons like a frame first, reinforce with contrasting (or not) splines - then secure them to the legs. That way any gap that was created by the apron movement will be between the apron and the leg which will in turn be covered by the top.

My 2 cents.

Good luck,
-joe

[Amy Leigh Baker]

However, I think maybe a bigger concern right now would be to ensure that your miters (or bevels) come together without any gaps. The longer you wait the more potential for the aprons to move (i.e. bow, twist, etc.), in turn creating a misaligned joint. Whatever your decision I would glue up the aprons like a frame first, reinforce with contrasting (or not) splines - then secure them to the legs. That way any gap that was created by the apron movement will be between the apron and the leg which will in turn be covered by the top.

I have to admit, this is a big concern to me. I would be very disappointed with gaps in the corners. Let me get on SketchUp this evening and "sketch up" something I'm tossing around in my head, then I'll post it. It might allow me to alleviate the bracing concerns and allow me to glue up the aprons soon.

Joe, I love the Display Table on your website! Is that your design?

-Amy

[Amy Leigh Baker]

So here are three pics which I hope will depict what I am thinking.

Base of table... legs, aprons, and added bracing.
Added drawer and cabinet. (obviously drawer slides have been left out, and I will have to alter the drawer dimension a little in order to attach drawer slides... that's do-able)
Finished table with tabletop attached.Will this alleviate my bracing concerns?

And with this set up I should be able to join the aprons and the one long cross brace together before I attach them to the rails, correct?