Safe Heating for Woodshop??

[Matt Hutchinson]

Does anyone know if this is a safe type of heater for a dusty woodshop??

http://grandrapids.craigslist.org/tls/592163371.html

Hutch

[Jim Becker]

This is one thing I'd unquestionably buy new...the cost is reasonable to do so and it will be a lot safer. The unit in that ad doesn't look all that well cared for.

[curtis rosche]

you might wana find out if the flame it heats with is open or enclosed

[Brian Poor]

I guess I have to ask... what do you mean by "dusty"?

If you mean shavings that can't be inhaled, from your lathe, then OK. Especially as this is meant to be a ceiling unit.
(you'll probably want to go over it and clean it before using it)

If you mean fine suspended sanding dust, then no. :eek:
In that case, spend this money on a dust collection system instead of a heater.

The intake fan is just going to coat the interior heat exchanger with wood flour and you will have a time-bomb on your hands.

[Toney Robertson]

I would have to agree that the condition of this heater would make me take a pass but if I am looking at it right then I see no reason that "type" of heater would not work.

My BIL has a ceiling mounted gas heater in his shop that looks very similar to the one pictured (he bought new). I used for years an open flame gas heater in my shop. I now use a natural gas radiant heater and/or a salamander style heater. Works fine.

[Joe Chritz]

Hanging propane of NG heater is a simple, effective and fairly efficent heating method. especially if you aren't out all day, every day.

I use a HotDawg by Modine but there are other units that have better ignition from what I hear.

Now I use a combo of the gas heater for keeping it at 50 and a small woodstove to heat when I am out there. As well as dispose of scraps.

Joe

[Skip Spaulding]

I would agree with Jim, heat exchanger could be cracked and a potential carbon monoxide problem could exist. If you do go with it, it might pay to have a gas tech check it out.

[Matt Meiser]

I would pass just based on the apparent age. Having to replace it in a year or two because something breaks and buying new is cheaper is false economy. Plus the newer ones should be more energy efficient.

[David Wilhelm]

Hutch, How many Sq Ft. are you trying to heat? The price is cheap. So cheap that if you paid for it and had it checked out and found nothing wrong you'd still be on the good deal side. If it's trash then you are not out much. Our Church gym had two old units not sure if the size is near the same it's pretty much a basketball court. We had one replaced at not a bad price. No insulation to speak of and the one new unit will run you out of the gym. So this heater may be over kill if it's a headache at all. But you asked if it was safe and I truely dont' have that answer.

[Scott Hubl]

I would say it would be a fine unit and a very good Deal, IF-
You took the info from the label and checked around to make SURE that all parts are commonly available.

If so, GRAB it if it is the correct size unit you need for the size area your putting it in.

I had an old NG wall mounted unit and did body and fender work and did full paint jobs without ever having a problem.

When a part failed and could not be replaced I bought a brand new ceiling mounted unit at Menards.
http://www.beacon-morris.com/html/garage_heater_bru.asp
The BRU 75

Most mom and pop body shops and such use these open flame units just fine, without exploding shops . Use common sence, put it on the opposite side as your DC and lathe. I worked in many shops and bondo dust is flammable, you can take a handful of its dust and drop it over a lighters flame and POOF it would go, but never once did it explode a furnace.

YES it can happen IF all the conditions are right all at the exact same time. ( about the same as all conditions being right at the exact same time using PVC pipe in a DC install. The stactic charge zap you get is annoying once in awhile but rarely if ever will your shop explode.)

Using this type heater in your home garage shop should be just fine. Use compressed air to blow the unit out once a month.

Look at your homes NG funace as an example, ever forget to change its filter? They get filthy the cheap ones catch alot of dust but also let alot pass on through and blow around and most homes dont explode, even during dirty dusty remodels.

As far as looks, no one is going up on a ladder washing and waxing these, there lucky to get blown out with the airhose now and then. Their workhorses not things of beauty.

Make sure parts are common for it and you have a nice warm shop on the CHEAP.

[Matt Hutchinson]

Well, I have to disagree with some of you. These type of units tend to be rather hardy, and unless it was abused, its age should not matter. I am more concerned with parts availability and with not blowing myself up. Even if an irreplaceable part does break within a couple years, it's a lot more energy efficient than buying a kerosene heater. Also, replacement of the unit at a later date is more within my financial ability. I am ridiculously poor....you would be surprised.

So, who thinks that this type of heater is okay with the dust produced by sanding turnings? Does dust even matter if I shut if off at the time of sanding (as well as clean it regularly)?

Last but not least, who has an idea of the cost of gas vs. electric? If current prices hold, or rise, is electric heat cheaper? Is this a viable option? http://www.heater-home.com/product/G73.aspx

Thanks everyone.

Hutch

[Scott Hubl]

Read my post.

As far as NG vs Electric costs that depends on your area.
Check locally.

[Joe Chritz]

At around 10 cents per Kilowatt hour I break even on electric over propane with an 85% efficient furnace if I remember correctly.

NG is usually cheaper so I doubt electric would ever be cheaper but there are advantages. No exhaust or fuel lines, etc.

The concentration needed for dust to explode would have to be pretty high. Way higher than you will ever get sanding, unless you are in a very enclosed area using a high dust machine like a drum sander.

Fumes and over spray from lacquer or shellac is another story.

Joe

[Matt Meiser]

The basic design isn't much different than the Hot Dawg style heaters many of us run safely. If you are comfortable with the unit from an operational safety point of view, then you are probably fine. Do check the size though. Too big a heater isn't very comfortable. My last shop had an old house furnace installed. By the time it was done cooling down enough for the fan to shut off, the shop was a good 5-10 degrees over the thermostat setpoint. So I'd turn down the thermostat to keep it from getting too hot, but then it would get cold before the furnace would kick on.