Craftsman 22124

[Rusty Elam]

Well I finally decided to upgrade my poor old Delta direct drive table saw after 12 years, so I went to Sears to buy the 22114 zip code saw they had on the Craftsman Club deal for $611, I figured it was not my dream saw but with no 220 (so please dont tell me I should of bouoght a used Unisaw) I figured it was about the best I could do for the money.
Well they did not have it in stock of course but they would order me one.
After trying for a few minutes the salesman said the computer would not allow them to place the order for some reason he could not understand so he would get his manager. The manager tried to order one but he could not get the computer to take the order either.

So he said he would sell me the 22124 with the Commercial Bessy fence for a little over a hundred more..........so in 3 or 4 ddays I am getting the saw I was dreaming about all along but could not make myself pay $400 extra.

Now I have a couple of questions for you guys that have the 22124 ( I seem to remember Glenn Bradley saying he has one).

1. How many boxes will this saw come in and how heavy is the heaviest one?
I need to find some help with unloading and assembly

2. Has anyone mounted a router plate to one of these sawa and if so is there room on the insert at the end or do you have to replace one of the cast iron extentions.

3. Is this Commercial Bessy fence as good as you guys say....I cant wait to find out.

4. Anything else that would help me get this saw up and running . (accesories, tips etc.

Thanks in advance...I am very excited about this new saw

[Kev Godwin]

Rusty, sounds like you got a very good deal. I paid a little more than that a little over a year ago. It will come in two boxes. You will be able to unload the B-Meyer fence box on your own (little less than 100 pounds). You'll probably need help with the larger box for the saw. The B-Meyer is very, very good.

The plastic laminate table extension is not of very good quality. I made my own extension for the router table insert to the right of the saw.

I put my saw together on my own without any help but it sure would have been easier with some help for an hour. I put my saw in a mobile base and made legs to support the long extension of the router table.
Kev

[Scott Donley]

Well I finally decided to upgrade my poor old Delta direct drive table saw after 12 years, so I went to Sears to buy the 22114 zip code saw they had on the Craftsman Club deal for $611, I figured it was not my dream saw but with no 220 (so please dont tell me I should of bouoght a used Unisaw) I figured it was about the best I could do for the money.
Well they did not have it in stock of course but they would order me one.
After trying for a few minutes the salesman said the computer would not allow them to place the order for some reason he could not understand so he would get his manager. The manager tried to order one but he could not get the computer to take the order either.

So he said he would sell me the 22124 with the Commercial Bessy fence for a little over a hundred more..........so in 3 or 4 ddays I am getting the saw I was dreaming about all along but could not make myself pay $400 extra.

Now I have a couple of questions for you guys that have the 22124 ( I seem to remember Glenn Bradley saying he has one).

1. How many boxes will this saw come in and how heavy is the heaviest one?
I need to find some help with unloading and assembly

2. Has anyone mounted a router plate to one of these sawa and if so is there room on the insert at the end or do you have to replace one of the cast iron extentions.

3. Is this Commercial Bessy fence as good as you guys say....I cant wait to find out.

4. Anything else that would help me get this saw up and running . (accesories, tips etc.

Thanks in advance...I am very excited about this new sawGreat buy on the saw ! best I have seen in a long time. It comes in 2 boxes, saw, and fence. Yes the Bessy is that good,the blade that comes with it is also good. Having some help putting on the extentions would really help, but doable by your self. The only problem I had was what to do with the steel cage it was shipped in. I don't have a router in mine but doubt if I would get rid of the extension for one, there is room with it on if you want it. Enjoy the saw, at that price you did real good.

[Bruce Page]

You should of bought a used Unisaw.....:D

Seriously, congrats on the new saw!

I can only answer #3. Yes, the Bessy is that good. IMHO

[Bob Herpolsheimer]

Hi Rusty,

I have the 22114 but I think the amount of assembly will be similar. Mine came in 1 box. It was a steel pallet which adds a lot of weight to moving but also made the it impossible for it to get damaged. I took the steel box off and I was able to unload it with 1 other person (my then teenage son) The directions were clear and easy to follow. I have not been sorry with mine. I built an out feed table for mine. As far a a router table, I never looked into that as I use a benchtop but I think you got a great deal and have fun but you know no pictures it never happened.

Bob

[scott spencer]

Nice deal Rusty....hope you enjoy it!

I initially mounted my router in the stock extension, but ultimately replaced it and I'd suggest you do that early on.

The Biese is great IMO. Most folks like it alot but YMMV. Wax the rails. I ended up sliding the front rail tube over by one bolt hole (10") to get 40" rip capacity. You mount the front angle iron as stated, and slide only the front tube. It requires relocating the tape measure and remounting the switch....a fairly simple upgrade, but of course it limits the rip capacity on the left side, which is seldom used on a left tilte saw.

If you're going to put it on a mobile base, do that before bolting on the wings, fence, or outfeed table.

The inserts to a Delta Unisaw fit perfectly, so there's no need to spend $30 for the one Sears sells, which is basically a rebadged Leecraft (http://www.amazon.com/Leecraft-DL-1U-Clearance-Table-Insert/dp/B0000223VB/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1204414587&sr=8-1) insert...

It'll cut most anything to full blade height with the right blade. My seems to do best with a good thin kerf ripper for heavy ripping. I usually use a 40T-60T (http://woodworkerszone.com/wiki/index.php?title=Table_Saw_Blade_Comparisons) TK for most other tasks.

The stock gauge is ok but not great. The fence and clamp are nice touches, but the accuracy of the gauge is average. I upgraded to an aftermarket gauge.

Pics links:
-rails 10" to the right (http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/hewood/RT/?action=view&current=TSTOP.jpg)
-current router table (http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/hewood/RT/?action=view&current=TS1.jpg)
-router table again (http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/hewood/RT/?action=view&current=NRT3.jpg)
-1st try with RT using the stock extension (http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/hewood/RT/?action=view&current=RT2.jpg)

[Eric Haycraft]

You should have bought a uni... j/k

I haven't heard a bad review of that c-man, so I am sure it will serve you well. Make sure to certify this alleged gloat with pics when it arrives.

Eric

[glenn bradley]

Now I have a couple of questions for you guys that have the 22124 ( I seem to remember Glenn Bradley saying he has one).

Yes I do. I finally ran 220v for some other tools but after hooking the saw up to a dedicated 110v circuit I saw no reason to change to 220v.


1. How many boxes will this saw come in and how heavy is the heaviest one?

Saw is in a metal cage on a metal skid wrapped in cardboard. Fence is separate. Take the bolts holding the saw to the skid out BEFORE trying to move it off. Much easier.

Me and one other guy moved it off the skid and tilted it to put the leveling feet on. It would help if you have a patient friend who will hang around and help with the wings. I used metal HVAC tape for shims to level one of them; its thin and stays put without pinching your fingers.


2. Has anyone mounted a router plate to one of these sawa and if so is there room on the insert at the end or do you have to replace one of the cast iron extentions.

The wooden extension wing is pretty poor. Mine is setting under a cabinet where it went the first day. I added a router to mine as an extension and then eventually built it in: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=474838#poststop


3. Is this Commercial Bessy fence as good as you guys say....I cant wait to find out.

Love it. Take your time to get it level and perpendicular. It lacks the adjustments that the "better than Bies" fences have but once set up, forget about it for life.


4. Anything else that would help me get this saw up and running . (accesories, tips etc.

My blade did not show up parallel to the miter slots. If you adjust this (very easy with the cabinet mounted trunnions) pay attention not only to parallel but left to right position within the blade throat. I got mine a little more to one side than I like. It is so minor that I have not corrected it yet but I wish I wouldn't have missed it.

Let's see, other goodies:

ZCI's - 1/2" BB ply works great
Wixey angle gauge - love it
GRR-Rippers - I have two, love 'em
Incra miter gauge - original is still in the box but doesn't look bad
Crosscut sleds - of course
Overarm dust collection - love it
Tenon jig - very handy
Dado stack - Freud SD508 works well, SD608 is restricted
Johnson's Paste Wax

[Rusty Elam]

Thanks for the information guys. Scott that was just what I wanted to hear the little been there done that tips. Being that I am not as young as I used to be( but still as good looking) :) I will get a little help with the moving.
Yeah I thought it was a pretty good deal also, the last time I saw it on C Club it was like 979. I did not ask for it tho, this manager just offered it.......pretty decent business practice in my opinion.

Can someone tell me the best mobile base for this heavy of a saw, I am not sure I want to go mobile but might consider it

[John Lannon]

Thanks for the information guys. Scott that was just what I wanted to hear the little been there done that tips. Being that I am not as young as I used to be( but still as good looking) :) I will get a little help with the moving.
Yeah I thought it was a pretty good deal also, the last time I saw it on C Club it was like 979. I did not ask for it tho, this manager just offered it.......pretty decent business practice in my opinion.

Can someone tell me the best mobile base for this heavy of a saw, I am not sure I want to go mobile but might consider it


The 22114...........is very simular to the 22124. But there are a couple of assembly differences. I have owned both the 22104, and the 22114. A good friend of mine has the 22124, and I put it together for him the day that he picked it up. I would not worry about not having 220 . The motor is pretty easy on a 110 circuit.

I would check the arbor runout before before I fully assembled the saw. The craftsman hybrids have been a little sloppy lately in that area.

[Ed Bamba]

I would check blade alignment prior to assembly, and also check blade alignment with the throat plate on and the blade fully tilted to 45 degrees. I had to elongate the cabinet's table mounting holes to get the blade far enough out to stop it from touching the plate.

Ed

[Paul Wunder]

Rusty,

When I bought my 22124, my local Sears (Orange, Connecticut) offered to deliver into my basement for $65.00 (I have a walk out door because my property slopes). I grabbed the offer and was pleased that I did. The two giants that they sent with the truck had a hard time on the forty feet of sloping grass, but they delivered it into my basement shop. I do not know your set up but this might be helpful. As far as a portable base goes, call the 800 service number on your owners manual. You will reach Orien, the manufacturer. Ask them for the base that goes with the saw ($39.99). It is a heavy duty Craftsman brand with two swivel wheels and two lockable wheels. Very heavy duty and Orien made it specifically for Orien machines and fits the saw like a glove. I was so pleased that I bought three more for my Craftsman/Orien jointer and other tools.

Good luck with your new saw. I like mine very much!

[Rusty Elam]

Well i guess I should post a picture just to prove it happened...

I finally got the 22124 saw picked up and after my two 20 something sons helped me (yeah right) unload it, followed by a day or two of waiting to try to find a mobile base for it,( Paul I tried the deal you talked about but Sears parts could not hook me up with Orion).

Then 2 days off and on of some very tedious assembly (Im very picky about fit and finish) and I got the saw running.....WOW..WOW..WOW.
THe difference in my old cheap Delta and this saw is unbelievable, so quiet and smooth and cuts are perfect.
I had to do some smoothing out of a small hump on one of the extentions, nothing major but I wanted it real close to perfect.
The Bessy fence was way off but it is so easy to set its rediculous, and man what a fence that thing is rock solid.
The blade was square and the miter grooves were also which was a nice surprise.
The factory blade seems real good, but today I saw a deal at Amazon for a WW11 for $64.xx so I am getting one in a couple of weeks because of free shipping.
Now I guess I will have to start making a new crosscut sled and a few other accessories that i need.

Thank again guys for the great info, you dont know how much help it has been.

[Rusty Elam]

Well I guess I am as computer Illiterate as I thought ...I can not seem to figure this picture thing out. Thought I had it but no pics..oh well

[scott spencer]

Well I guess I am as computer Illiterate as I thought ...I can not seem to figure this picture thing out. Thought I had it but no pics..oh well

For pics, you'll need to use the "manage attachments" feature below. You can either "browse" and load the pic from you PC, or post the pic on a host server like Photobucket.com and link the .jpg address. You'll get a warning if the pic is too big.

Don't hesitate on that $64 WWII price...they don't usually last too long. Note that it's the 30T WWII and not the 40T, but I really prefer the 30T over the 40T in hardwoods....it's very difficult to tell the cuts apart, and the 30T will loaf thru thick stuff that the 40T struggles with. If you were to add a good 60T TK later on like the Freud LU88 or the Infinity 010-060, you'll get very fine cuts in hardwoods and ply, and should have most of your bases covered.

[Rusty Elam]

Yeah scott that was what I thought about the WWII so I pulled the trigger as quick as possible, I do like the Lietz blade tho and I already have a LU88 I just need to get it sharpened.

I love this saw thanks for the info

Time to start building sleds if I can ever finish all these cabinet doors.

I tried to use the Manage button and it seemed to be loading but when that screen went away and I posted ....no pic

[scott spencer]

Cool...the 30T WWII and the LU88 are excellent compliments to each other. One's strength is the other's weakness, and there's enough overlap of abilities that you won't have to change the blade for many applications.

The stock Leitz blade is pretty good as stock blades go. It's the cheaper China made line though, not the German stuff AFAIK.

[Bill Borchardt]

Congratulations on the zipcode (22124) saw.
- You got a VERY GOOD deal. Qualifies for a major gloat! :)

I got mine in Dec 04' ($759) - been very pleased. Plenty of power.

My upgrades to the 22124:
- Forrest WW2 40 tooth thin kerf (GREAT blade)
- Lee Styron "Shark" blade guard with dust port
(that and cabinet collection gets 90+% of dust)
- Incra 5000 Mitre gauge/sled
- Rolling stand

Make Sawdust, Have Fun, Be Safe . . .

Billbo
Smyrna GA

[Bill Keppel]

Congratulations on the zipcode (22124) saw.
- You got a VERY GOOD deal. Qualifies for a major gloat! :)

I got mine in Dec 04' ($759) - been very pleased. Plenty of power.

My upgrades to the 22124:
- Forrest WW2 40 tooth thin kerf (GREAT blade)
- Lee Styron "Shark" blade guard with dust port
(that and cabinet collection gets 90+% of dust)
- Incra 5000 Mitre gauge/sled
- Rolling stand

Make Sawdust, Have Fun, Be Safe . . .

Billbo
Smyrna GA

What side of the blade do you use the Incra 5000? I just got one and was planning to use it on the left of the blade. I know there are some issues with the left tilt of the saw blade.

Thanks!
Bill

[Jim Callaghan]

LIke one of the other threads mentioned, if your saw seems to start slow, you may need to run a dedicated line from your fuse box to the saw, I would use at least #12 wire. That is the only thing I had to do to make mine work great.
You will like it,
Jim

[Michael Batt]

Bought mine almost 2 years ago for just under $650. Replaced the original wood extension with a rockler router table. Only other major add-on is a jessem mast-r-slide, which I love.
Great saw, great deal. Congrats

[Scott D Johnson]

I took out the motor to get it in my basement (by myself). Oh boy, it is heavy. Should have removed the top too. It's a great saw.

[Paul Wunder]

Rusty,

I found some old notes from when I purchased my bases. My contact at that time was:

Coleen Englehart
Orien International
139 Delta Drive
Pittsburgh, PA 15238

T 412-967-0300 X109

Emails:

Coleen@orientools.net
Coleen@steelcitytoolworks.net

The above info is about two years old, but someone should be willing to help you. They are good people.