Bandsaw Advice

[Jason Christenson]

I found this bandsaw on craigslist. (http://lincoln.craigslist.org/tls/588524673.html) The owner says it is a JBS 14CS with a 1hp motor. My question is, is this sufficient for cutting bowl blanks? What type of blade would I want to get for it?

Thanks,
Jason

[Brian Poor]

Assuming the guides (and the rest of the machine) are intact and the blade can be tensioned properly, yes it'll work fine; as long as your bowl blanks thickness are within the machines cutting height.
As with all bandsaws, user experience does matter.
A 3/8ths blade with an open hook tooth pattern should be adequate.
Your mileage may vary.

[Steven Wilson]

It will work. You may need to go slow once and awhile. A 3/8" Timberwolf AS blade works well for cutting bowl blanks.

[Fred Conte]

Jason - It will work fine, Steve's and Brian's advice is right on.

Find out if it has multiple speeds via moving the belt.

IIRC, you'll have 6" clearance but you can purchase 6" riser blocks for it if you need more.

Good Luck!

HTH - Fred

[Jason Christenson]

Well, I bought it. Can anyone point me specifically (a link would be great) to a good blade to go along with it?

Thanks again,
Jason

[Jason Christenson]

It will work. You may need to go slow once and awhile. A 3/8" Timberwolf AS blade works well for cutting bowl blanke.


AS??

Jason

[Dale Gregory]

The Jet 14 is what I have and it works great for resawing or bowl blanks. Mine is 1.5hp. I have the riser kit (highly recommend or you will be stuck cutting blanks less than 6" deep). The riser requires a longer blade (105"), so don't waste a lot of money on regular blades if you intend on buying the riser kit at some point. Most people use a 3 or 4 tpi blades max. You need the room inbetween teeth to clear the wood chips, especially with wet wood.

Dale

[Dale Gregory]

Call timberwolf directly or check them out on-line. They have a recommended blade for wet wood.

Dale

[Jason Christenson]

Anyone tried these? (http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=6944)

[Brian Poor]

Olsen blades are what I have used for quite a few years.
12.95 and they do the job as advertised.
I believe they are available nationally.

If you opt for the riser kit, your cutting capacity height will double, but it will not increase the machines ability to add any additional tension on the blade or increase the horsepower.

If this is your first bandsaw, go slow and learn to use it within it's stock capacities.

A real upgrade from the start will be to look at a set of "cool blocks" to replace the standard guide blocks that come with the machine. Cool blocks allow the blade to run in closer contact and are impregnated to resist heat build-up.

Also, and this goes for any machine that you run, try to watch someone who is proficient at using it - it will demystify the whole process for you.

[Brian Poor]

Anyone tried these? (http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=6944)

Those are nice blades, just be aware that they are slightly heavier thickness than usual (which is .025) and will require more tension than the jet you own may be able to safely deliver.

Any 14" bandsaw is going to have some serious limitations when trying to slice through 8 or 10 inches of wet maple with bark, bugs and a less than flat surface riding on the bed of your saw table.
Repeatedly bogging the machine to a halt will be a common occurrence for the uninitiated.

[Bill Bolen]

try ps woods for timberwolf blades. I use a 3/8" 3tpi for cutting bowl blanks. Here's a link.Good folks, quick ship and the best price I have found...Bill..
http://www.pswood.com/product.php?productid=713&cat=47&page=1

[Dale Gregory]

Don't forget to keep the flat side down on the table. It's a common mistake to want to draw a circle on the clean side but then you have a wobbly blank ready to bind and twist.....or worse cut you. If it catches, it can yank the wood right out of your hands. Best to make a circle template out of anything from cardboard to plastic (pizza boxes are good to use). Place a nail or screw in the center and place it on the bark side of the blank. Use it as a guide to help you stay round.

Enjoy your new toy, I mean tool!

Dale

[Jim Becker]

It's what I used before buying my MM16. Yes, it will cut blanks as long as you're not trying to be a speed demon and are using an appropriate blade. (Timberwolf AS, for example)

[Bernie Weishapl]

I tried those blades Jason and my opinion is they are not as good as Timberwolf. I would get the 3/8" 3 tpi AS blade or the 1/2" 2 tpi AS blade which I use. The next blade I get will be the 3/8" 3 tpi AS. As Dale said I would definitely get the riser block for it as you will be limited to about 5 1/4" blanks. By the way AS is Alternate Set tooth. Call or check out Suffolk Machinery Corp. They are good people to deal with and very helpful.

[Dick Strauss]

Jason,

AS=Alternate Set=good for green wood

[Brian Poor]

Here is a good article on blade tensioning:
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/w00013.asp

[Jerry Allen]

Anyone tried these? (http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=6944)

I use their Woodslicer blade which costs twice as much. It's a great blade and does a nice job resawing or creating a blank. I use it mostly for wood that's dry. The blade you are pointing to is not the same quality.

[robert hainstock]

I have sedthe woodslicer for years and luve it, have the turners balde installed now, and i thing very hughly of it. The woodslicer cuts a thinner kerf than any other i have tried, but the woodturners blade does a nice job too. :)
Bob