Plange cuts on a router table

[Anthony Whitesell]

What is the best way to make plunge cuts, such as stopped dados, on a router table?

[Doug Shepard]

It wouldn't be my first choice but if you have to do it on a table, position the board at the start of the cut and clamp it to the table. Then plunge up from below and lock the depth. Remove the clamps and push the wood through to the stopping point. Put a tape mark on the fence and a mark on the wood to stop at when it reaches the tape mark. Lifting the board off is usually less of a problem than dropping it down onto a raised bit. But you could always just kill the power before removing it too. I've also lowered the wood down onto a raised bit, but it can sometimes grab and you end up with a sloppy entrance point. And go easy on how much you try to remove at once. You might need to do a few passes depending on the bit diameter and how deep you're trying to go.

[Rod Sheridan]

What is the best way to make plunge cuts, such as stopped dados, on a router table?


By taking the router out of the table and using its plunge feature with a straight edge.

Plunge cutting on a router table can have some real surprises if you use a fence at the same time.

This can result in the classic "work trapped between the fence and cutter" accident whre the router attempts to climb cut the work piece.

Regards, Rod.

[Jamie Buxton]

Remember to use a bit designed for plunging. Many straight bits don't have cutting edges at the end, and don't plunge well at all. Others do have extra pieces of carbide at the ends, or are solid carbide, and do plunge properly.

[Anthony Whitesell]

I would use the plunge base, if I had a way to hold the piece. The piece is only 2"x4"x1/2". Much smaller than the base of the router.

[George Bowen]

Stop block to guide the plunge down then remove it and start cutting. Have to use a plungable bit. Or it its a through cut at one end then uuse the stop block to end the cut and turn off before pulling the board off.

Keep depth shallow per cut, try to take too much and it'll get real exciting....

[Jules Dominguez]

You can also drill a hole in the workpiece for the starting point, set the workpiece down on onto the bit, adjust the fence against the workpiece, and then feed the workpiece against the fence as you normally would. The router bit height should of course be set and locked before setting the workpiece on it. You need to hold or clamp the workpiece in place before starting the router to prevent the bit from grabbing the wood at the start. Good alignment is essential to a clean start, and a "soft start" router helps. Be aware that the fence may move when clamping it in place, the workpiece may move if you clamp it in place, and if so it may take two or three tries to get everything aligned before starting the cut.
If you do all the above plus cross your fingers, you can get a smooth entry. If the groove will be hidden after assembly of the project, it won't be a problem if the start is a little off.

[Nissim Avrahami]

Looks a little bit crazy but it works even for doweling...

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb151/matsukawa/RT%20dowel%20lift%20joint/007.jpg


http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb151/matsukawa/RT%20dowel%20lift%20joint/008.jpg


http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb151/matsukawa/RT%20dowel%20lift%20joint/009.jpg


Or, with router lift for mortising (loose tenons) or whatever...

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb151/matsukawa/RT%20dowel%20lift%20joint/011.jpg


http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb151/matsukawa/RT%20dowel%20lift%20joint/012.jpg

[Vince Shriver]

Clever, simple and effective - very nice!


Looks a little bit crazy but it works even for doweling...

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb151/matsukawa/RT%20dowel%20lift%20joint/007.jpg


http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb151/matsukawa/RT%20dowel%20lift%20joint/008.jpg


http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb151/matsukawa/RT%20dowel%20lift%20joint/009.jpg


Or, with router lift for mortising (loose tenons) or whatever...

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb151/matsukawa/RT%20dowel%20lift%20joint/011.jpg


http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb151/matsukawa/RT%20dowel%20lift%20joint/012.jpg

[Bert Johansen]

Using a proper router bit (see descriptions above) set the bit depth appropriately (not too deep at first). Set the fence distance so your stopped cut is where you want it. This may entail using some scrap stock for several trial & error non-plunging cuts. Once you have the fence where you want it, mark the start and stop points on your fence--or place a stop block at the end point.

The actual plunge is accomplished by placing one end of your blank on the router table with the edge against the fence and aligned with the starting point on the fence. Turn on the router, and slowly push the blank down to the table, plunging it onto the bit. Keep hands and fingers well clear of the router bit at all times. Rout the rest of the groove to the stopping point and turn off the router. Wait until the bit stops turning (you will hear it). Remove the completed piece. Raise the router bit in increments and plunge-rout again. Repeat until you reach the final depth.

If the stopped groove isn't too deep or if you are using a softer wood you can do this in a single pass. Often two is all that is needed. Just use maximum caution because your bit will be exposed during the plunge.

[Greg Hines, MD]

Well, first thing I would do is mill the dado or groove in a larger piece, and then trim it to length afterwards.

As to making incremental cuts, there is another way than constantly adjusting the depth of cut on the router. You can make 1/4" hardboard shims to lay on top of the table, and then, as you remove them, your cut will be incrementally deeper. That is a good way to not have to mess with constant bit changes on multiple workpieces.

Doc

[Anthony Whitesell]

I like, change that, love the second idea.

The first idea just doesn't work. I'm trying to a) practice/hone my woodworking skills, b) make some cash by making some trinket boxes that my mom can sell at her craft fairs with her tolepaint and pen & ink artwork, and c) save money during (a) and (b) by using the piles and piles of scraps I have laying around. Which should lead to (d) some interesting designs.

[Greg Hines, MD]

Another thing to do is make sure that you can control the workpiece. A big handscrew would be a good choice, as it would grip those small pieces without worry that you might make metal-to-router-bit contact.

Doc

[pat warner]

Tho accepted in routerdom, it is an unsafe practice; one I would not entertain nor recommend. A self feed, a kickback; the work can split.
If either the fence or the work has bow, crook, or cup, expect adversity.
Routers. (http://www.patwarner.com)

[Jim Becker]

I mark the fence to show the starting point and stopping point and lever the workpiece down on the cutter and back off, being sure that my fingers are not in the vicinity of the cutter, itself. I do this every time I make doors with panels when I'm using pocket screw construction of the doors, themselves. This is not something to do with a large diameter cutter, but for a typical 1/4" to 3/8" cutter, it will work well.