Indispensable tools

[Tim Allaire]

Minus the few core (Power tools-Table Saw, Various "hand" power tools, Band saw, Jointer, Planer, etc.), what would consider "secondary" or "complimentary" tools that are as equally important?

The only reason I am asking is that I have tackled the few "core" tools and looking at a few of the complementary items (miter guage, router bits, chisels, squares, etc.) What do you think a beginner would benefit from the most.

Tim

Just a newbie trying to fit into the game.

[alex grams]

-pocket hole jig
-clamps (NEVER HAVE ENOUGH!)

[Keith Starosta]

I'll tell you what....the more I am using them, the more I am wondering how I ever got along without my set of engineer's squares. Also, I've been using my saddle square a TON lately, and find it to be a great little tool.

- Keith

[Mark Roderick]

Really, the answer to your question is that the indispensable tool is the tool required to build your next project.

If I were you, I would get a copy of Lee Valley's latest catalog and flip through the pages, thinking about which item would have made your work a lot easier.

[Al Willits]

Good quaility measuring devices, to me that's a must, whether they're combination squares, straight edges, tape measures, whatever.

Basic chisel set maybe, assorted sanding blocks, clamps, level, list goes on and on, like said before, you'll find you'll need new tools as you start to build stuff.

Al

[Tim Allaire]

Next project is a desk made of walnut. Looking forward to getting my hands dirty.

[Larry Fox]

A good combination square, dial caliper are two that I can think of right now.

[Greg Cole]

A good work surface, ala bench. I've been limping along with a sub par one for too long and am getting ready (trying to anyway) build a good one. Having a FLAT, solid work surface is priceless as is the ability to secure your work piece to said surface.
Lotsa lighting goes a long way in a shop (again not a tool but much overlooked)
Measuring & lay out tools. Dial indicator & straight edge (machinist style not a level or something thought to be flat-straight) for tool set up too (something much overlooked until your standards move from newbie to having a few projects done ;)).
At least one plane (yeah right, JUST one...:rolleyes:) normally a block plane for the 1st.
Storage (granted not a tool) but what good are all these things if ya can't find them when you need them?
Look at buying or making some clamp cauls too, they will eliminate the need for buying a bazillion clamps all at once.

Cheers.
Greg

[Jack Norfleet]

For me, the tool I use on every project is my air compressor. I use it to clear my workpiece and work surface of dust and chips, to spray finish, and to quickly nail jigs and fixtures. I use it with hand tools, at the tablesaw, at the drill press and at the lathe. I even use it to clear the dust off of my sandpaper when honing a plane blade or flattening a plane sole.

[Peter Quinn]

Ditto Larry...A major break through for me was getting and learning to use a set of dial calipers. For jointery using machines learning to think in thousands of an inch rather than fractions helped me a lot. Machine adjustments all go much smoother now...no more hunting, pecking and hoping. My eyes can't see 1/64" any more on a ruler but they can still see it on a dial indicator!

Second major break through was learning to do layout with a chip carving knife rather than a pencil. I have a class with Mario Rodriguez to thank for that. Pencil lines are fat and variable. With a good combination square (starret or equivalent) and a sharp knife layout goes quicker and ends up more accurate.

Clamps, clamps, clamps...lots of clamps...and clamp storage so they are handy and not under foot!

[Tim Allaire]

It sounds like what I need the most of is SPACE...I havent found that in any of the catalogues or online sites in my search for the most indispensable tool.:rolleyes:

[Greg Hines, MD]

I would agree that good layout tools are a very good start, and you will get a lot of use out of them in every project you do. A good set of chisels and something to sharpen them with. You will find yourself reaching for hand tools to fine-tune your projects.

One of the tools I reach for on almost every project is a low-angle block plane, or a rabbeting plane. They are great for tweaking the fit of a tenon in a mortise, or shaving off just a hair on a panel to fit.

I have also been very pleased with the Japanese style saws. They cut fast and are easier to keep straight and square due to their pull-stroke design.

Beyond that, a panel cutting jig for your table saw is something that you will use on almost every project. I use mine all the time, for small pieces as well as large ones.

Doc

[Greg Cole]

It sounds like what I need the most of is SPACE...I havent found that in any of the catalogues or online sites in my search for the most indispensable tool.:rolleyes:

Tim,
I've been scouring the world for "wall strechers" for years... if you find some get me a pair too! Sort of what I was eluding to in my other post about storage. Every shop is drastically different, but ya can come up with a solution for your shop area... I hang alot of stuff off the walls and under my oversized bench.

Cheers.

[aaron welton]

every tool I buy, I later wonder, how'd I ever get along without this???

[Thomas S Stockton]

Tim,
A good set of hand tools is pretty indespensable, you don't need to go crazy but a few decent ones will get you far and learning to tune and sharpen them is real important. This list is pretty basic but will give you the most bang for your buck
low angle block plane
chisel set, maybe 5 chisels between 1/4" and 1" and a mallet
bevel gauge
engineers square
marking gauge
combo square
spoke shave if your doing anything curved
Something to sharpen with, sharpening stones are my choice but if you can find Micheal Dunbar's original article on his scarysharp system in Finewoodworking it offers a really low cost alternative, that since then has taken on a life of it's own and has gotten much more complicated than his original idea.
Marking knife, a cheap one is an exacto knive.
I would add a smoothing or jack plane at some point but the most used plane in my shop is my block plane.
You don't need to get everything at once and for some of the measuring stuff the good quality import stuff is accurate enough for wood. Like someone said Lee Vallety is a good source for high quality stuff and they have a range of prices.
I would also look on the web at what some of the woodworking schools want you to bring for there begining courses, they usually have it down to a science.
Tom

[Gary Herrmann]

Well tuned planes. Block, jack, smoother are a good start.

[Tim Allaire]

It is funny that I spent so much time worrying about mechanized tools (TS, BS, Router, Planer); when, if I really thought about it, I probably could have gotten away with the essentials (hand tools) [DUH, thats a novel idea]. Nothin' like the good ole days, I guess!!

[Tim Allaire]

I would agree that good layout tools are a very good start, and you will get a lot of use out of them in every project you do. A good set of chisels and something to sharpen them with. You will find yourself reaching for hand tools to fine-tune your projects.



So what "sharpener" would you recommend? Wet, dry, machine, or by hand?

[Greg Cole]

Tim,
The progression from tailed to hand tools seems to come with a little time and the need to refine your skills after a few project completions. Some slide further down the tailed tool slope (ie Festool etc) , some down the Neander slope (rahabbing old planes or buying & using new)... there are so many ways of doing much the same thing... alot of it comes down to personal choices, circumstances (time, money, shop space etc.)
FWIW, my most expensive tailed tools for bulk stock prep to be able to mill rough cut lumber. Much of my hand tool work is for joinery and prepping for applying finishes.
There's a lot of stuff that's useful between all "genres" of ww'ing (most listed already).... but just getting out of the starting gates is expensive no matter which "genre" you wind up in. Once ya buy your tools then the eternal battle of working on the shop versus working in the shop starts.:rolleyes:
As always, much of this all is predicated on what type of work you want to do or plan to do as well.

Clear as mud eh?

Greg

[Jim Mims]

Minus the few core (Power tools-Table Saw, Various "hand" power tools, Band saw, Jointer, Planer, etc.), what would consider "secondary" or "complimentary" tools that are as equally important?

The only reason I am asking is that I have tackled the few "core" tools and looking at a few of the complementary items (miter guage, router bits, chisels, squares, etc.) What do you think a beginner would benefit from the most.

Tim

Just a newbie trying to fit into the game.
Well, there's the obvious that everyone else has, or will mention.
But, for me, a roll of clear packing tape and a .5mm mechanical pencil.
Oh, and the internet, or course. If you need to do something, someone, somewhere has made a jig or posted a video on how to do it.
If you haven't already, check out the videos at www.woodworkingonline.com, www.finewoodworking.com too and www.thewoodwhisper.com too.
- Jim

[Eric Haycraft]

Two major tools..
Lots of light - figure what you think you need and double it.
The most important tool..the one between your ears.

[Tim Allaire]

I wish this fact could be explained to the LOML...both monetarily and timewise.

[Greg Hines, MD]

So what "sharpener" would you recommend? Wet, dry, machine, or by hand?


I had a post the other day on that subject. Everyone here seems all over the place. I am leaning towards stones and a jig, but only because I have a small Craftsman grinder for rough work. Lots of people are recommending the Work Sharp and if you have the money for it, a Tormek or Jet big-wheel grinder.

Doc

[David DeCristoforo]

Amazing that no one has yet mentioned.... the biggest, heaviest hammer you can find....

YM

[Greg Hines, MD]

Amazing that no one has yet mentioned.... the biggest, heaviest hammer you can find....

YM


Ok, I will ask. Why would you need a sledge hammer for fine woodworking? I use a rubber clad 10 oz hammer for most of my persuasion in mortises, and I use the plastic clad other side of it for driving chisels.

Doc

[John Thompson]

The small planes, etc., etc. already got covered....

Sarge..

[Tim Allaire]

Pencil sharpener-I thought that was covered under chisels?

[Lee Schierer]

Double sided tape - it has more uses in a wood shop than duct tape.
small block plane
1/2" chisel
12" scale with 32'nd & 64'th graduations
30/60/90 & 45 drafti9ng triangles
Dial caliper w/digital readout
Starret combination square
small Japanese flush cut saw

[Joe Chritz]

Really, the answer to your question is that the indispensable tool is the tool required to build your next project.

If I were you, I would get a copy of Lee Valley's latest catalog and flip through the pages, thinking about which item would have made your work a lot easier.

Good answer indeed. Whenever I take on a new project I try to think of anything I may need to undertake it. If a new tool is needed I figure the cost in and I get a new tool.

I use the Kreg jig a lot and good clamps.

Joe

[David DeCristoforo]

"...Why would you need a sledge hammer for fine woodworking?...for driving chisels...?"

Hey don't knock it if you haven't tried it. Where I come from we were taught that if you can't fix it with a bigger hammer, it isn't worth fixing.....

;)
YM

[Mark Singer]

a Digital caliper and a good double square. Marking measuring and seting saw blade heights etc is important

[Larry Fox]

Once ya buy your tools then the eternal battle of working on the shop versus working in the shop starts.

The "working on the shop" side is currently winning with me - big time

[Gary Keedwell]

a Digital caliper and a good double square. Marking measuring and seting saw blade heights etc is important
Yep....My square and dial vernier;)
Gary

[Greg Cole]

Pencil sharpener-I thought that was covered under chisels?

Might be alluding to the expression about "you better go sharpen your pencil" as Dad said to me a few times....:rolleyes:

Cheers.

[Bruce Page]

Besides just about everything else that has been mentioned in this thread (can never have too many tools), I have found my Woodmaster drum sander indispensable. I use it on just about everything that I build. I wish I would have bought it 20 years ago.

[Karl Brogger]

Leaf Blower. It is the easiest way to get everything clean.

[Reed Wells]

Beside my compresser my old Baldore duel pump sander gets many hours of use per week.

[Tim Allaire]

Ha Ha....Funny enough...I have tried that!!!

[Jim Becker]

Low angle adjustable mouth block plane, good chisels (and the gear to sharpen them), a dovetail saw and a fine crosscutting saw, hold-fasts for the bench, a good marking knife (learn to use a pencil less...) and good measuring tools. A tape measure is a poor choice for furniture making; rather, a set of good steel rules will be more accurate.

[Gary Keedwell]

Besides just about everything else that has been mentioned in this thread (can never have too many tools), I have found my Woodmaster drum sander indispensable. I use it on just about everything that I build. I wish I would have bought it 20 years ago.
Bruce...what model did you get? Single or double drum.:) I just received a flyer today for reconditioned models.

Gary

[Bruce Page]

Gary, I have the little one, the 2675 single drum but it ain't small. I don't think I could fit the bigger ones into my shop.

[J. Z. Guest]

For the small shop:


Mobile bases
A small circ saw (ex. Skilsaw HD5510 (http://www.amazon.com/Skil-HD5510-5-1-2-Inch-Circular/dp/B0000223FJ/ref=pd_bbs_sr_2?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1204351029&sr=8-2))
High grade 6" hook ruler (http://www.amazon.com/PEC-Inch-MM-Hook-Rule/dp/B000KFQY6E/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1204351069&sr=8-10)
Shelves
A quality corded drill (http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-0233-20-Magnum-8-Inch-Keyless/dp/B0000223HD/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1204351148&sr=1-7)
A quality jigsaw (http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1591EVSK-6-4-Barrel-Grip/dp/B00067J3WS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1204351196&sr=1-2)
Doweling jig (http://www.amazon.com/Dowelmax-Precision-Engineered-Drill-Guides/dp/B00021ULRE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1204351233&sr=1-1) (or a more affordable one (http://www.amazon.com/Wolfcraft-3751-Dowel-Pro-Doweling/dp/B0000DD1P6/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1204351233&sr=1-9) that is still good)
Kreg Jig (http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-K3MS-Master-Pocket-System/dp/B0009VD03Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1204351312&sr=1-1)
Shop coat (http://www.duluthtrading.com/search/searchresults/86065.aspx?feature=Product_1&kw=shop+coat) or apron (http://www.duluthtrading.com/searches/22603.aspx?feature=Product_5)
Dansko Professional clogs (http://www.zappos.com/n/p/p/122638/c/10373.html) (go ahead & laugh, but they're better than ANY sneakers for being on your feet for long periods!)
A quality WW vise (http://www.amazon.com/Wilton-63144-Heavy-Duty-Woodworking-Vise/dp/B00062NEKK/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1204351655&sr=1-9)

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello,

- 3' magnetic picker-upper-thingie and/or one of the "grabber" type
- T-track.
- #6 and #8 screws in bulk in 2" and 2 1/2" lengths. McFeely's square drive.
- Lot's of square drive bits.
- A set of Vix bits.
- A carbide 35 mm Forestner bit for concealed European hinges. (trust me on this - when you pick up the bulk hinges at Home Depot - then get back home and realize they are 35mm - and your bit isn't / the HSS one you run back out to pick up will just barley get you through all 50 hinges. The glue in 3/4" plywood takes it toll on the HSS in a hurry)

- I forgot this one - a corded 1/2" or 5/8" hammer drill.
A lot of people will tell you that for the few times you "need" one, it's not worth it to buy one. Just rent it.
Here's the catch though. Spending the full amount to buy a hammer drill may/may not be the best thing, if,,and it's a big if, you already have a good 1/2" corded drill. If you're going to buy a corded drill anyhow, then the hammer option only adds a little bit to the cost. If you shop around enough, the extra added cost can be lower than a one time rental fee.

[Monroe Brown]

My constant companion is a Starrett Combination Square.

The 24 tooth, 10 inch Freud rip blade for my table saw makes ripping a joy.

I seem to always be reaching for a 3/8 chisel for a variety of small but important tasks.

I recently made a 3' x 7' workbench that weighs in close to 300 pounds. After mounting the vice I immediately laid out and drilled holes for the Lee Valley round bench dogs that had been collecting dust for 4 years in my toolbox. Those bench dogs come in real handy.

Double sided tape is sweet to have around.

Lastly, two years ago I built Norm's workshop hutch. Besides being fun to build, it really made my basement shop look and feel like a well equipped and organized space for woodworking.

MB

[Ray Turney]

Cordless drill, shop vac, and yes I wear Crocs in the shop, like walking on air.

[Rob Will]

Tim,
I just added an Osborne EB-3 miter gauge to my table saw. I like it.
http://www.shop.osbornemfg.com/main.sc;jsessionid=C72EDF5C8BB1E598BE0546608438A56 B.qscstrfrnt01

I also like having two drill presses (one bench-top).

I would get some Bessey K-body clamps and some Irwin Quick-Clamps.

Rob

[Lee Koepke]

Its not a tool, but ....

Patience

Good Use of the gray matter between your ears !!!

For me, I have found that the more time I spend doing any projects, the MOST frustrating thing that not having around is good marking and layout equipment. And reading this thread, it would be a prevailing theme.

I find myself trying to buy ONE piece each time I order something from Rockler / Lee Valley.

Technically speaking there is nothing you cant accomplish with the big iron, so the next step is finding the tools you LIKE to use. for me, I am starting to lean towards more hand tools. ( that darn neander forum ... )

[Tim Allaire]

Dust between the toes...that's a new one.

[Don Morris]

All of the above plus I pull out my cross cut sled and my Incra mitre 3000 with some regularity.

[Tim Allaire]

Incra is #1 on my list...Followed by clamps and then chisels...who knows after that.

[Jon Crowley]

For me, a 0.5mm mechanical pencil. Can't stand sharpening regular ones, and it's easier to see than the line from a marking knife.

[Tim Thomas]

Something I bought recently and can't figure out how I lived without it before: a nail apron. These things are less than a dollar at Home Depot, and daggum are they useful. I already had a "real" toolbelt, but a lot of times that thing was overkill. It was too bulky, with too many pockets and I tended to overload it with tools. The nail apron is just a pair of fabric pockets and some string to tie it around your waist. I find the smaller size is really perfect for most projects and it gets in my way a lot less. One other nice thing is that they are so cheap you can buy several and set them up for different tasks. For example, I have one that has wire nuts, electrical tape, pliers, screw driver, and a wire stripper for doing electrical work. I just tie it on and I'm ready to go.

[Tim Allaire]

Nahm (Norm) would be proud! He is always wearing one of those things (good idea). I will put that into my notes of purchases.

[Jim Mims]

Minus the few core (Power tools-Table Saw, Various "hand" power tools, Band saw, Jointer, Planer, etc.), what would consider "secondary" or "complimentary" tools that are as equally important?

The only reason I am asking is that I have tackled the few "core" tools and looking at a few of the complementary items (miter guage, router bits, chisels, squares, etc.) What do you think a beginner would benefit from the most.

Tim

Just a newbie trying to fit into the game.
After this weekend, I have a new favorite tool. I put a new fence on my table saw and when installing the rails, I zero'd my 24" Craftsman electronic level on the top, then set it on the rail to perfectly align it. Sure made it easy.
Oh, and zip lock bags for putting those extra parts in and then marking them with a sharpie.:)
- Jim