Table Saw Set Up and Adjustments

[Dwain Lambrigger]

I am starting my official woodshop in one third of a three car garage. I am building the workbench in the next two weeks, but my first project is to clean and adjust my tools, starting with my tablesaw. I have one of those popular Craftsman 113 XXXXXX (113-298842) models. I want to go through it soup to nuts, without spending too much money. I have two questions:

1) I don't want to spend too much money, as the saw isn't worth it. Here is what I am planning on buying:


New belt
New blade
New fence (Lowes T2 unless I can find a better fence cheaper)
What else? (new pulleys worth it? What are PALS?)
New power switch (large off plate)2) I want to adjust my table saw as best as possible. I don't have any tools for the job. What tools would I need? Also, I am going to move on to an old Sprunger 6 inch jointer next, so if there are tools that would work for both, I would like to know.

thanks to all,

Dwain

[Art Mann]

I think you are on the right track with the stuff you listed. PALS assist in the tedious job of aligning the blade with the miter slot. They are well worth using. Read about them here.

http://www.in-lineindustries.com/saw_pals.html

You might also consider using a Link Belt instead of the standard V belt for less vibration. I have read that machined pullies will further reduce vibration, but I wouldn't spend the money on them unless the link belt doesn't do the trick.

[Lee Schierer]

Pick up a dial indicator from your local Harbor Freight They normally cost about $20 so it isn't a huge expense. Attach a piece of wood to the miter gauge using the two screw slots. Then use a wood screw through the loop on the dial indicator to attach it to the piece of wood. Raise the blade to full height. Mark an area on the side of the blade with a magic marker and set the dial indicator so the tip touches that spot and reads zero. Then rotate the spot to the back and check the reading. If it is still zero you're done. If not, loosen the nuts under the table and move the saw carriage around until the blade is aligned. Repeat as required. Then do the fence using the same basic set up.

[Jim Mims]

I am starting my official woodshop in one third of a three car garage. I am building the workbench in the next two weeks, but my first project is to clean and adjust my tools, starting with my tablesaw. I have one of those popular Craftsman 113 XXXXXX (113-298842) models. I want to go through it soup to nuts, without spending too much money. I have two questions:

1) I don't want to spend too much money, as the saw isn't worth it. Here is what I am planning on buying:

New belt
New blade
New fence (Lowes T2 unless I can find a better fence cheaper)
What else? (new pulleys worth it? What are PALS?)
New power switch (large off plate)2) I want to adjust my table saw as best as possible. I don't have any tools for the job. What tools would I need? Also, I am going to move on to an old Sprunger 6 inch jointer next, so if there are tools that would work for both, I would like to know.
thanks to all,
Dwain
You've come to the right place, there are a lot of members who have this saw (including me) and even more who started out on one.
The 113 designates it was made by Emerson Tool Co.
It's a shame Old Wood Working Machines is down at this time, they had a wealth of information on this TS. I picked up an owner's manual on ebay.
Type the model number into Google and you'll get a lot of hits.
Here's a few links to get you started:
http://primeshop.com/access/woodwork/sawtune/
http://store.thesawshop.com/catalogue/docs/tune-up.pdf
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/2007/02/14/podcast11-tuning-up-your-table-saw-for-perfect-cuts/
http://home.metrocast.net/~cpjvkj/tstu.htm

And some threads in here:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=67140
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=74619
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=757078

I just wrestled with choosing an aftermarket fence and went with the MuleCab Accusquare after reading that last thread above. For me, it had come down to the Delta T2 (cheaper but some serious drilling and fab work), Vega (they're a month or more behind in their orders) or the MuleCab. I'm anxious to put it on this weekend. Right now my fence is the Align-A-Rip fence that Sears sells for this saw. It's ok, but I want more accuracy.
I put a switch from Rockler on the saw. Being left-handed, I stay more to the right of the fence, which puts the switch right under my knee, which I like. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17401&filter=switch

- Jim

[Ben Cadotte]

The P.A.L.S. work great (I have home made version). If you don't have the manual for the saw, you can go to Sears Parts Direct and download one for free. Just put in the model number. And follow the links.

Probably needs a good cleaning underneath. Get some spray lithium grease for the adjustment screws (angle and height). I also did the link-belt and pulleys on my Craftsman. I did not do them seperate so can't tell you if just 1 or the other helps noticibly.

Not sure which fence you have, but I have had very good luck with the stock align-a-rip. I bought a used set of rails and have 18" to the left and 50" to the right. About the only thing I have had to do to the fence is adjust it so it locks tighter. I thought about buying a new fence for it. But since most likely I will upgrade sometime to a cabinet saw. I will stick with the stock fence.

As for blades, I have a mix of cheap ones and really good ones.

[Todd Hyman]

I am starting my official woodshop in one third of a three car garage. I am building the workbench in the next two weeks, but my first project is to clean and adjust my tools, starting with my tablesaw. I have one of those popular Craftsman 113 XXXXXX (113-298842) models. I want to go through it soup to nuts, without spending too much money. I have two questions:

1) I don't want to spend too much money, as the saw isn't worth it. Here is what I am planning on buying:


New belt
New blade
New fence (Lowes T2 unless I can find a better fence cheaper)
What else? (new pulleys worth it? What are PALS?)
New power switch (large off plate)2) I want to adjust my table saw as best as possible. I don't have any tools for the job. What tools would I need? Also, I am going to move on to an old Sprunger 6 inch jointer next, so if there are tools that would work for both, I would like to know.

thanks to all,

Dwain

Dwain,

I have a T2 fence that I'm not using. I'm not sure where you live but let me know and maybe we can work something out.

[Jim Mims]

If you don't have the manual for the saw, you can go to Sears Parts Direct and download one for free. Just put in the model number. And follow the links.

Really!? When I was looking for mine it wasn't available as a download, they wanted you to buy it. That's always bothered me about Sears tools.
So, I had to try it. I typed in his model number and I must be doing something wrong, 'cause the only way I can see to get it is to order it.
I would love to be proved wrong.:)
- Jim

[Dwain Lambrigger]

You've come to the right place, there are a lot of members who have this saw (including me) and even more who started out on one.
The 113 designates it was made by Emerson Tool Co.
It's a shame Old Wood Working Machines is down at this time, they had a wealth of information on this TS. I picked up an owner's manual on ebay.
Type the model number into Google and you'll get a lot of hits.
Here's a few links to get you started:
http://primeshop.com/access/woodwork/sawtune/
http://store.thesawshop.com/catalogue/docs/tune-up.pdf
http://www.woodworkingonline.com/2007/02/14/podcast11-tuning-up-your-table-saw-for-perfect-cuts/
http://home.metrocast.net/~cpjvkj/tstu.htm

And some threads in here:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=67140
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=74619
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=757078

I just wrestled with choosing an aftermarket fence and went with the MuleCab Accusquare after reading that last thread above. For me, it had come down to the Delta T2 (cheaper but some serious drilling and fab work), Vega (they're a month or more behind in their orders) or the MuleCab. I'm anxious to put it on this weekend. Right now my fence is the Align-A-Rip fence that Sears sells for this saw. It's ok, but I want more accuracy.
I put a switch from Rockler on the saw. Being left-handed, I stay more to the right of the fence, which puts the switch right under my knee, which I like. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17401&filter=switch

- Jim


Jim,

Funny, I am left handed too! I got my switches from Grizzly, about $12.00 per. I am debating how much to invest, as I would like to upgrade to a new Griz, or an older PM or Uni cabinet saw. Still, I want this thing to be the best possible. How much does the MuleCab run? I have never looked into that manu.

thanks for the feedback!

[Jim Mims]

Jim,

Funny, I am left handed too! I got my switches from Grizzly, about $12.00 per. I am debating how much to invest, as I would like to upgrade to a new Griz, or an older PM or Uni cabinet saw. Still, I want this thing to be the best possible. How much does the MuleCab run? I have never looked into that manu.
thanks for the feedback!
The MuleCab Accusquare was $219 shipped. I have to honest, when I opened the box, I thought to myself, Is that all there is?
But it does look like a decent fence and I'm anxious to try it out. That post about fitting the T2 to a Craftsman TS is a good one, and if you don't mind a little fab work, the T2 is a lot cheaper and a good fence too, I'm sure.
I'm just starting out too, and thought about saving for a new saw, but there's so much more I need first (well, want <g>), that's it's being pushed further and further back.
- Jim

[glenn bradley]

New belt
New blade
New fence (Lowes T2 unless I can find a better fence cheaper)
What else? (new pulleys worth it? What are PALS?)
New power switch (large off plate)New belt
- Go with a link belt, you won't believe the difference
New blade
- or three, Pick up a thin kerf 24 tooth rip and 80 tooth crosscut at least. I occasionally use a general purpose blade (WWII) but only for really rough stuff.
New fence (Lowes T2 unless I can find a better fence cheaper)
- Good plan, anything will be a vast improvement.
What else? (new pulleys worth it? What are PALS?)
- the benefit of the pulleys is less significant than the link belt as long as your current pulleys or OK. Definitely get the PALs (http://www.ptreeusa.com/tablesaw_products.htm).
New power switch (large off plate)
- Good plan and it will improve your safety.

I believe folks here have touched on the other essentials, tools to align your saw, Johnson's Paste Wax for the top, etc. My old 113.xxxxxx is still running great at my dad's shop now. Just like me to totally trick it out and then send it to him . . . .

[Kyle Costlow]

I bought a similar saw recently(the 113.298240) so far I was been taking it apart and cleaning it up. I bought the frued p410 blade for it and a anti vibration belt. I plan to get the PALS before to long as well. Mine came with the XR 2424 fence. You might look online for one of the align a rip fences, they are designed for use with these saws. Mine seems more than adequate. The bies, and other fences seem like overkill to me.

I found a manual(PDF) for free online, we dont have the exact same model but if you cant find one, I can send you the one I found, they are likely quite similar.

[Ben Cadotte]

Really!? When I was looking for mine it wasn't available as a download, they wanted you to buy it. That's always bothered me about Sears tools.
So, I had to try it. I typed in his model number and I must be doing something wrong, 'cause the only way I can see to get it is to order it.
I would love to be proved wrong.:)
- Jim

Sorry you have to go to the manage my home link first. Then enter type of tool, brand, and part number.

I put yours in and it looks like they don't have it. Just a couple days ago I used it for my scroll saw, radial arm saw, and table saw.

[Jim Mims]

I bought a similar saw recently(the 113.298240) so far I was been taking it apart and cleaning it up. I bought the frued p410 blade for it and a anti vibration belt. I plan to get the PALS before to long as well. Mine came with the XR 2424 fence. You might look online for one of the align a rip fences, they are designed for use with these saws. Mine seems more than adequate. The bies, and other fences seem like overkill to me.

I found a manual(PDF) for free online, we dont have the exact same model but if you cant find one, I can send you the one I found, they are likely quite similar.
That's the same model number I have, Kyle.
Years ago I put an Align-A-Rip fence on it and it's an ok fence. Be sure to put locktite on the screws after adjusting it.

So far I've installed:
Machined pulleys
Link belt (what a difference!)
PALS
New 1 hp motor
Rockler switch
Delta mobile base

I'm finishing up an outfeed table that, when raised, will be 40"w x 36"d

I have the phenolic plate for a ZCI and a MJ splitter to install.
I just received a MuleCab Accusquare fence and I'm anxious to put it on.
So much to do.
- Jim

[Bob Hallowell]

Uhm, I had the saw and fence too. that fence will work if you check it constantly to see if is still square, and the Biesemeyer is not overkill unless you consider putting a fence and knowing it is squre. But I think it the is the same with all the t-squae fence from the t2 to the Powermatic.

Bob

[Kyle Costlow]

I've always measured both ends prior to important cuts, I suppose if I had money to burn I'd get a fancy fence.

[josh bjork]

My neighbor has a nice little angled floor built into the stand so the sawdust falls out the back rather than making a pile right under the saw where you can't sweep it up. It might shore up the stand a bit which can't be a bad thing either. If you tear the saw down, and that doesn't take long, make sure the blade is parallel to the fence when tilted as well as vertical. The dial indicator is probably good for that too. Then build a nice crosscut sled or two.

[Dwain Lambrigger]

Dwain,

I have a T2 fence that I'm not using. I'm not sure where you live but let me know and maybe we can work something out.


Todd,

I am very interested. I pm'ed you today. Can you send me some pics? I live in Phoenix, so shipping is a necessity. What would you like for it?

[Stephen Edwards]

I've always measured both ends prior to important cuts, I suppose if I had money to burn I'd get a fancy fence.

I got in the same habit of measuring both the front and back edges of blade to the fence before important cuts years ago working with a craftsman table saw that was nearly impossible to perfectly align. Now, even though I have a much better saw and fence, I still take both measurements!

[Jim Kirkpatrick]

Dwain, I can't say enough for PALS and all the other products from Jerry Cole at Inline Industries. There's a link in the second post to his site.
For my old Craftsman saw I bought from his site:

Dubby sliding miter sled (BTW, I've since sold the saw but still have Dubby, Inline-industries swapped out the needed different sized miter slot-bar free of charge. This after 14 yrs!)
Pals
Performance package includes link belt and turned pulleys (what a difference they make!)
A-line it alignment systemI've never tried his saw blades but have complete faith that they are top notch. about $20 cheaper that WWII blades.
And I'm also a fan of Bies. fences. It's not overkill.
In just a couple of hours of setup with these purchases, you will be producing rip cuts with mirror like finish on edge. Good luck!

[Sean Kinn]

I put a T2 on my Uni, and I'm very happy with it. There is a tiny bit of deflection if you push laterally on the rear of the fence, but in real use it is not a problem at all. Even with my plain 24 tooth Freud rip blade I can make cuts that are ready to glue up. For the amount of $$ I saved over a Biese, I'll make use of a 12" clamp on the rear of the fence if I ever get to the point where I'm applying a later orce to the rear of the fence.

[Stephen Edwards]

Pick up a dial indicator from your local Harbor Freight They normally cost about $20 so it isn't a huge expense

Hi Lee,

Will either one of these dial indicators from HF work for the table saw tuneup that you described?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=623
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=33675

Thanks for your time and the useful tips. I appreciate it very much.