Drawer box material

[Anthony Whitesell]

I have read the threads on drawer box material options but none seemed to take pine into account as an option. Maybe it's not and I don't know why. I have to pick up lumber tonight for drawer box material and am trying to figure out if I need to go with poplar or would pine be sufficient. So I have also posted a poll to find out what the most popular material for drawer boxes for the shop.

[Tom Esh]

I prefer poplar over pine only because of the pitch / sap issue. I know there is nice clear pine available but it can still have an occassional patch of sap. I just don't like having to de-gunk tools (and myself) after working with it. The sticky stuff seems to end up everywhere. I'd rather pick up a dead bird than deal with it.:D

[glenn bradley]

I have done pine drawers but used 3/4" and thank goodness they are shop drawers because they are a bit weak. I think the reason you can't find much on using pine for drawers is that it is not as well suited as other materials. By the time you pay for pine of a quality that I would use (if I had to based on a style or request), you can buy poplar. I would not recommend regular one-by pine material from the hardware store at all.

My preferred material for general drawers is 1/2" BB ply for those that can be done that way. Poplar resawn and planed to thickness by me for those that can't and hardwoods were "required".

[Greg Heppeard]

1/2" baltic birch for half lap constructed drawers, solid 1/2" birch/soft maple for dovetails. 1/4" baltic birch for all drawer bottoms, unless it's a heavy load drawer then 1/2"

[Peter Quinn]

I stay away from pine for drawers, too weak, too sticky, doesn't wear well if friction is involved. Prefer soft maple and its usually cheaper than clear grade pine in my area. Hard maple is nice for hard working pieces and wears like iron. Poplar is pretty traditional secondary wood here in the NE but I don't trust what I've been getting for anything that isn't going to be nailed down. I used some rift sawn white oak I got cheap once whose color/grain was streaky but otherwise fine for sides and backs in a canned goods pantry. I think those drawers could hold up the house in the event of a collapse!

[Anthony Whitesell]

Drat! I forgot Baltic Birch in the poll options. I'll assume for now that he votes in 'other' are for baltic birch, hickory, cherry, and fancier woods and the exotics.

[Glenn Clabo]

Fixed it for ya...

[Greg Funk]

Depends what you are making. If it's a piece of nice walnut or cherry furntiture with doevtails then hard maple looks good. If you're making a pile of kitchen cabinets you will want something less expensive like birch, poplar or soft maple. I use baltic birch in the shop. Pine is too soft for me.

Greg

[gary Zimmel]

A while back I got a bunch of board feet of 4/4 birch. So my drawer boxes have been machined out of that material since then. I like contrasting side and fronts to show off hand cut dovetails.

[Jon Crowley]

Depending on where this drawer is going, maybe aromatic cedar? I picked up a board of the stuff and I'm going to experiment with using it for a drawer in an end table. For bedroom chests of drawers I think it would be great too.