OSB Walls

[Ken Frohnert]

I am thinking about using the 7/16 OSB on my detached garage walls. I don't want to use drywall because I don't think it will stand up to the abuse and other options are much more expensive. I fiqure till I get shelving and cabinets ect up you will not see much of the wall anyway. I figure if I hang things I will be hitting studs anyway so it will not have to hold much weight. Has anyone used OSB and if so did you paint it? I was wonding what it might look like varnished if you put the unmarked side out. Any thoughts?

[Kurt Bird]

Ken,
I used OSB on the walls in my shop, and it worked great! Not only do you get a strong wall, but you can add shelves, brackets, etc. pretty much wherever you need them. I thought about painting mine, but I was in a hurry to get the equipment out of storage when we moved, so I didn't bother with it. The attached photo isn't the best, but it might help you visulize. Painting would make the shop a little brighter. Go for it!
Kurt:D

[NICK BARBOZA]

i just installed 7/16" OSB in my basement shop. i am going to paint it to reflect the light. I like it so far. you can mount shelves or whatever you like anywhere. also it is durable for the inevitable run-ins with carrying lumber around the shop. i wouldnt poly it, i think that time is better spent painting to keep the room bright.

Nick

[Mike Lipke]

I did my shop, walls and ceilings in osb. Used 1x2's for molding in the corners and for a baseboard. Looks really nice, and I love it.

[Matt Meiser]

I used it on my shop walls. The ceiling is white steel. The only drawback I see is painting. I used a FULL 5 gallons of primer to prime my walls in my 30x32x12 shop which has a 12x12 overhead door and a couple regular doors and windows taken out of that. And when I was done it was barely white. I used close to 5 gallons of paint after that which took well. I put the smooth side out and had a few areas where flakes delaminated during painting--so I just painted them back in place. :D

[Rob Will]

I would use either 7/16" OSB or 1/2" BC plywood. Either way, you may want to caulk the joints and nail holes (after priming - before painting).

One of the best things I ever did was to use gloss latex exterior house paint on my woodshop walls. The heavier bodied paint fills in lots of tiny voids, latex does not fade (amber) like oil paints, and the gloss surface sheds dust well.

I used one coat of latex Bullseye 123 primer (tinted toward the color of my paint) and two coats of gloss latex house paint. You can get by with less paint depending on what you want it to look like.

My other shop building is raw OSB. No comparasion. It should have been painted.

Rob

[Prashun Patel]

If yr gonna paint it (I wouldn't), I'd use a shellac-based primer first. That's (IMHO) the only way to seal it adequately.

If yr gonna anchor things to the studs anyway, have you considered just going with 1/4" birch? It'll be slightly more expensive but will look amazing. That might not even require a finish, which'll mitigate the price a little.

[Greg Cole]

FWIW, I'd paint it if it were mine. Paint isn't that expensive and having good shop visibility-lighting is all but priceless.
I have 2 walls of sheet rock in my basement shop that were left unpainted when the house was built. When the garage evolved into a shop, I painted the 'rock & also the inside of the garage doors all white to help bounce the light around some (not too mention added a bunch o lights). I was very close to painting the cement walls on the other 2 sides too, and still might if I ever that that "round-to-it".
Also, there's no such thing as too many lights....

Greg

[glenn bradley]

If yr gonna paint it (I wouldn't), I'd use a shellac-based primer first. That's (IMHO) the only way to seal it adequately.

Shawn is on target as far as the paint. I used drywall primer and it covered the OSB pattern in one coat. Being waterbased is caused some of the strands to buckle. These were easy to glue back down and are now invisible.

On the next wall I will use Zinsser B-I-N primer. I just used it on a (thankfully rare) painted project and it works great. Covers everything, seals everything and sticks to everything. If it weren't for the ammonia cleanup, I'd use it more often.

P.s. I used 7/16 OSB for the main panels and drywall over the subpanel area.

[Mike Wilkins]

I used 1/4" OSB, screwed w/1" drywall screws. I plan to remove them soon to install insulation, and will paint them at that time.
Thanks guys for the tips on the proper primer and paint to use.
As for attaching items to the walls; I find a stud and use long screws.

[Prashun Patel]

Zinsser B-I-N primer...If it weren't for the ammonia cleanup, I'd use it more often.

Glen- Since it's shellac based you shld be able to clean it with alcohol. I used it on some MDF closet shelves I made but just disposed my rollers. Much to my wife's dismay, I tried to half-heartedly clean my hands with mineral spirits (had no alc on hand) and it didn't work too well, so I just left it on for a day or two until friction made it shed naturally :)

[Chris Padilla]

Are there any (fire) code issues with regards to using OSB over drywall? For example, the section of your shop or garage that may share walls with your house--does it need drywall over OSB?

Either way, paint it a nice white to reflect light...I used a semi-gloss exterior grade white.

[Matt Meiser]

I know the wall separating our garage from the house has 5/8" drywall over OSB sheeting on the end of the house. I'm under the impression that walls separating a garage and house have to have drywall in most places?

My shop is a separate building and as best I could find the rules are different for an outbuilding.

[Joe Chritz]

I have had OSB walls but now have drywall. I have so much stuff next to the walls I don't think I could hit it if I wanted to.

If you can spray with an airless it paints very easy. If you have to roll use a longer nap roller and paint like you would concrete block. I used a rolling thing that hangs in a 5 gallon bucket you just run the roller on so it doesn't drip.

It takes a fair amount of paint but works well when done.

If you can spray I would recommend it. It is well worth it even if you need to cover some stuff in the middle of the room.

Joe

[Lee Koepke]

the other thing to think about is .....

Pick a few 'bays' for vertical chases. For example, between two studs you would have a 16" wide strip screwed to the studs so if you do put shelves on the rest of the walls and want to add ( conceal ) air piping, dust collection, or new electrical, you can remove the chase and not all your shelves / cabinets. and be able to have that easy access.

[Steve Marcq]

I too used 7/16 OSB in my detached shop. Cheap - less than $5 per 4x8 sheet. I rolled on a coat of primer and then a topcoat of the cheapest white paint I could find - did it on the ground. To put it up consider screws, as you can take a sheet down whenever you might need to (wiring etc). Since I stapled up a poly vapor barrier, I didn't bother caulking anything.

It has worked out beautifully, and the shop is nice and bright. Used it on the ceilings too (drywall lift is the way to go).

Do it; you won't regret it.

Steve

[Ken Frohnert]

I am going to get 5-6 sheets tomorrow to put up. It will take 20 sheets to do all the walls. I will pick up some oil based primer to start with that should stop the delamination. I will caulk the corners and the joints with some basic painters caulk. Once I get it all hung and primed I will us the outside white paint on top. Thanks much for the input.

[Jim O'Dell]

When I put up my OSB, I put a bead of Alex Plus paintable caulk on the end of the sheet on the wall, then slid the nets sheet into it. Use a putty knife to scrape off the excess, and wipe on the next edge. Worked very well. I used Kilz water based primer. Took two coats to get a real even finish. I left that as is. It is white enough for me for now. Some of the top layers did delaminate. I just left them. Guess I could spit them and brush some glued in and rig something to press it tight while it cured. Maybe later. :rolleyes: Jim.

[Curt Doles]

I recently built a 20x20 inside an existing outbuilding. I used OSB on the outside because of tractor, mower traffic and drywall on the inside because I thought the lighting would be better, thus far it seems to be working out pretty well.

Curt

[Jerry LaBelle]

I'm in the same process. Just bought some 1/2" OSB for my walls. Still trying to decide if I want to paint it or not. Some good ideas here.

Jerry

[Chuck Gregg]

I was on a service call recently and the garage was panelled with OSB and they sealed it with Thompsons weather seal, made a nice finish and sealed it also.

[Matt Meiser]

The benefit of painting it is lighting. As I painted, it was like someone was adding more lights.

[Victor Stearns]

Go for the osb as it handles the board bangs better than drywall. Also as stated earlier, paint if white. You cannot beleive the difference. I've added two photos of the shop so we can see the difference. And yes, I still have to finish the painting.
Victor

[John Browne]

Great info--just finished insulating and wiring my garage shop and plan to put OSB on the walls (painted) and sheetrock on the ceiling. Good tips here on the paint, thanks!

[Curt Doles]

Hey John,

Did you have help on the ceiling or use a panel lift. I rented one to do my ceiling and it was so slick.
I'll never muscle another sheet up to a ceiling.

Curt

[Leo Zick]

im debating my workshop layout (will post a thread on that soon :) ) and am concerned over codes with OSB walls.
in CT, I believe you have to use BX and metal boxes instead of romex and plastic boxes.

Not sure of any other fire code issues yet. Exterior walls (if in an interior space) may have to be double sheetrock?

no one else is concerned over this?

[glenn bradley]

Are there any (fire) code issues with regards to using OSB over drywall? For example, the section of your shop or garage that may share walls with your house--does it need drywall over OSB?

Either way, paint it a nice white to reflect light...I used a semi-gloss exterior grade white.

Interestingly, my garage has drywall over the electrical entrance area and over the laundry hookup area. The large wall surface common to the house and the garage is doubled plywood ???

No wonder we can't just use common sense and stay within code, its just too wierd sometimes.

[Chris Padilla]

The largest wall common between my house and garage also had plywood on it with drywall on top of that. I thought it might be for sheer strength but I've yet to see this anywhere else in the house so it's a mystery.

Is it in case you try to drive into your house? The plywood would help this?? No clue.

[Leo Zick]

are you guys sure that isnt the exterior wall of your house?
most houses are constructed with plywood exterior, then clad. since this wall isnt a true exterior wall, but built separate from the house framing, its covered with drywall. the drywall is also probably CA fire code compliance. most garages are required to have it.

[Larry Browning]

I have unpainted OSB in my garage. It was installed about 10 years ago when the house was built. It was fine for about 8 years or so. Since then some of the chips in the OSB have started separating kinda like it is drying out. Nothing serious, some of the chips are starting curl up a little making the surface pretty rough. I am forever catching my knit shirt on those curls as I walk along next to the wall. I wish I would have painted the walls when the house was new. I also tend to think that it has lost some of its density and wouldn't hold a nail or screw as well as it did originally.

[Shawn Honeychurch]

OK, minor change here;

Is OSB OK for exterior walls?

Shawn

[Matt Meiser]

Under some kind of siding? Or exposed?

Virtually all new houses I see built around here are sheeted in OSB. The garage at my old house had a pole barn type lean-to added on the back that was just painted OSB that had been exposed for several years. It was in OK shape--a little rough, but sound. The key there was probably the paint and that it was able to dry out quickly after it got wet. I sided the whole thing because it didn't look very good. There's a huge house several miles from here that has been sitting unfinished for probably 10 years. All the OSB is a sick gray color and for years every time I go by I expect to see parts falling in, but they haven't yet. I wouldn't walk on it though.

But I've also left a sheet of unpainted OSB outside for several months where it sat with an edge on the ground and with snow on it. It wasn't good for anything but the burn pile. And on our house we had to replace the sheeting under one window due to water that leaked in from a bad window unit. But it also partially rotted out the 2x6 under the window.

I guess I'm of the belief, from my experience, that it isn't any more susceptible to failure than any other product, but when it does fail, it fails more spectacularly because it just crumbles. To answer your question, if I was building a new building, I'd sheet with OSB and side over it.

[Tom Clark FL]

This post is just a thank you to the Creekers who are such a help when a newbie is planning a project! 15 years ago I built a new steel shop building when we moved to the country, and wanted to put up walls and paint the floor. Unfortunately, the old house sold very quickly, and the shop had to be moved before any inside work could be done. The last 15 years the walls have just been the vinyl sided insulation the building contractors put in. What a pain. It was easy to damage and you could not hang anything on the walls…Now we are moving again for a change of climate, and this time we had time to work on the new shop before moving into it. My first idea was to put up some cheap paneling on the walls. Tried to find any cheap paneling lately? It's not only expensive but is only 1/8" thick. Crap! What could you hang on that?? I started doing some research on SMC and found this post about using OSB for paneling. The idea of thicker walls where you could hang anything on them sounded good. Thanks fellas. The studs had extra sheets of 2" styrofoam put behind them, and then the wiring put in with the OSB over that. What a difference the paint makes. I painted 2100 sq ft of walls with 2 coats of Kilz primer. Took 13 gallons. The shop room was looking like a dungeon before the walls were painted, but afterwards, what a transformation! It is so bright inside! Thanks again for all the posts you guys put up three years ago. They are still doing a great job of educating anyone who takes the time to do a little research.

[David Keast]

I've used it to dry line a big wall, 20ft long 9ft high, very pleased with the result. The OSB we buy here in France is T&G, presume yours is the same. The one mistake I made was to not glue the joints, with big summer to winter humidity changes, some of the joints have opened enough to be visible under the paint. We filled the joints and fixings with regular wall filler then painted with regular water based (we call it emulsion) paint such as you would use on a plastered wall. Looks great.

[glenn bradley]

what a transformation! It is so bright inside!

Do you want to adopt? I'm available. That place looks like a slice of heaven.

[Tom Clark FL]

Do you want to adopt? I'm available. That place looks like a slice of heaven.

Sorry Glenn,

You're in SoCal and the new shop is in New Mexico. A bit far for you to commute.

[Matt Meiser]

So tell us the truth--did you have to move because of all the groupies showing up on your doorstep after the Wood Magazine spread? :D

[Tom Clark FL]

Matt,

The truth? What Groupies?? Only one person ever emailed and asked if he could come over for a visit. Too bad as I love company, and the chance to sit around and talk woodworking!!

The truth? After 38 years of living in Florida, we are moving our observatory to better skies so we can enjoy our telescope making hobby even more.

Sigh… Fame is so fleeting! Thanks for remembering…

[Bill ThompsonNM]

Tom, Welcome to New Mexico! Remember all you have to know here is Red or Green?Did you find a place at higher altitudes or just the dry air and good weather over the most of the state. ( for those who haven't visited NM, altitude ranges from around 4000 to over 13000 feet. About 5k where I'm located.

[Tom Clark FL]

Thanks Bill,

We are at 4800' between Silver City and Deming. Skies are incredibly clear!

[Bob Deroeck]

Hi,

I'd appreciate some clarification on the subject of OSB. By "OSB" are members referring just to "oriented-strand" board? Or, is the term "OSB" being used for both "oriented-strand" board or "wafer" board?


Also, where have members been able to find OSB in 1/4, 5/16, or 3/8" thicknesses. I'm having trouble findings any OSB less than 7/16" thickness in my area.

Bob DeRoeck

[Kevin W Johnson]

Bob

oriented-strand board....

I'd go for the 7/16", as thats what i used. I wouldn't want it any thinner. If anything i'd go thicker, just so it has more strength if you want to hang something that misses a stud.

[Ole Anderson]

My most recent shop walls are 1/2" OSB painted satin pure white. works for me.

[Luc Vincent]

Just finished insulating and paneling my shop with 7/16" OSB. I used one coat of Zinsser primer and one coat of flat ceiling white(because I had a surplus of it to use up) and it came out great. I did most of it myself and cut each 4x8 sheet in half to notch in my electrical boxes and it made it very easy to handle solo. I put it up with 18gauge crown stapler and it went up very fast. I also caulked the seams and corners and from a distance you can't even tell it's OSB. I'm very happy with it. Here's a pic shortly after painting..wall is still wet.

http://i942.photobucket.com/albums/ad269/wolflrv/Shop%20pics/DSC01060.jpg