Need a 'bit' of help

[Tim Allaire]

I was interested in purchasing some router bits (for various job/projects) and was wondering what people recommended? Sets vs. individual? I planned on carbide because they seem worth the money. (I have both a table and router ready to go-including a few round over and finish "trim" bits and even an Roman Ogee-currently). Suggestions on how to up grade my arsenal?

Tim

[Greg Cole]

I usually stick to the more reputable brands and buy them as needed (Amana, Whiteside, CMT, etc). Sets of brand names are pricey, so I pretty much buy as needded (luxury of having a decent WW tool store close to home).
I did start out with a generic 12 piece kit when I bought my first router and some of those bits have been a very good bargain when I think about useage versus price. The new quad cut Freud bits have gotten my interest as they are touted to leave better surface finish without doing any final passes or climb cuts for cleaning up the routed surface, but I haven't bought any...yet.

$0.02 donation....

Greg

[Greg Hines, MD]

I think most people start with some generic set, which is reasonable, though you are going to use a few of those bits 90% of the time, and the remaining bits infrequently at best, if ever. I think that you are better served getting the bits that you will use and leaving the boutique bits for specific projects.

You didn't mention it, but if your router can handle 1/2" shank bits, do not bother with 1/4" bits. The larger ones will cut smoother by far, and have less tendency to break.

I would start with a couple of straight bits, a round-over and a cove, chamfer and rabbet bits.

Doc

[Jim Mims]

I was interested in purchasing some router bits (for various job/projects) and was wondering what people recommended? Sets vs. individual? I planned on carbide because they seem worth the money. (I have both a table and router ready to go-including a few round over and finish "trim" bits and even an Roman Ogee-currently). Suggestions on how to up grade my arsenal?
Tim
I started with this old wood magazine article, "6 Must Have Router Bits":
http://www.woodworkerscenter.com/hotdata/publishers/meredith_wwc/advertiser/7714694/1215470/6MustHaveBits.pdf

- Jim

[Anthony Whitesell]

This was brought up awhile back. Most people said to look for a set that contains the bits you know you'll need and perhaps a few you'd like to have and then purchase good ones one-at-a-time when you need them. You'd end up with fewer better bits that you know you're going to use.

My personal rule is not to buy a lot of stuff to have now that I don't know that I need and then end up needing something later and not have the money for it.

[David DeCristoforo]

"My personal rule is not to buy a lot of stuff to have now that I don't know that I need and then end up needing something later and not have the money for it."

This is called "wisdom".....

YM

[Tim Allaire]

Correction "wisdom" would be not only "not spending the money now on something you didnt need" but also not spending the money on anything else until it is needed. So what bits should I buy?:confused:

[David DeCristoforo]

"...not spending the money on anything else until it is needed. So what bits should I buy?"

Perhaps, the question should be "What bits do you need?". What is it that you want to do with your router right now? Answer that and you will know (or someone can tell you) what bits to buy.

YM

[Tim Allaire]

I need a chamfering bit (for a table top), a flush trim, and a cove bit (for detail). My objective was to spend $200 on a set or individual that I can house for the future-instead of taking the time to go to the store multiple times "when I needed them". Suggestions?

Tim

[Greg Hines, MD]

Correction "wisdom" would be not only "not spending the money now on something you didnt need" but also not spending the money on anything else until it is needed. So what bits should I buy?:confused:



I would get a 1/2" and 1/4" straight bits, 1/4" or 3/8" round-over and matching cove, 1/2" chamfer, and 1/2" rabbeting bits. Those five or six bits will cover you for a lot of general woodworking.

Doc

[David DeCristoforo]

Agree with "Doc" except that I would get one of the rabbeting bits that has interchangeable bearings of various sizes which allows you to cut different width rabbets.

YM

[Dave Falkenstein]

This is the set I'd start with, if I were starting today:

http://www.holbren.com/product.php?productid=440&cat=24&bestseller

Ask about a SMC discount - 10% I think.

[Greg Hines, MD]

This is the set I'd start with, if I were starting today:

http://www.holbren.com/product.php?productid=440&cat=24&bestseller

Ask about a SMC discount - 10% I think.



That looks like a perfect starting set to me. Yoshi had mentioned getting different bearings for the rabbeting bit, and they can be had separately if you need them.

Doc

[Peter Quinn]

Don't know if they still do it but woodcraft used to offer regular $5 bit sales every couple of months, their house brand. Pretty decent bits, rock bottom price, lets you buy a few to play and expirement a little. Well worth the price. You could put together a decent basic set from those.

Do they still make HSS bits?

Best way to built your arsenal is to wage war and outfit your troops accordingly. Pick or design a project, get the bits you need to do the job, use the bits, learn, grow, get more bits...do more work...

[Bob Feeser]

I have a ton of router bits, Frued, Whiteside mostly, but I bought a something like 30 piece set of made in Taiwan bits from eBay. Carbide tipped and they were about 45 dollars for the complete set, with wooden case, and clear plastic doors. The advantage of such a set is that they have 3 or 4 different sizes of all the most popular figures. So if you are looking for an ogee, or chamfer, or edge trimming bit, there are 4 different sizes of each. I also can't get over how nice of a job they do. To tell you the truth for standard jobs, I reach for those first. The specialty cabinet making bits boxed set from Freud I only use when making cabinet doors of course. I have way over a grand in router bits, and I keep reaching for those made in Taiwan set.
Interestingly in Sears I see a 4 or 5 pack of Taiwan bits going for 85 dollars, and I see the same bits in eBay for as little as 15. Some of those carbide tipped bits are pretty good for the money. I was speaking with a gentleman from Canada, who said he sent a 300 dollar set of high end cabinet bits over to Taiwan, and they would make clones for 50 dollar per set if he bought 2000 worth. He placed the order, and said that when using the bits, that the faces did not match up. Now what does he do? He can't even use them as ashtrays. He mentioned that they would take them back and make him a new batch. He mentioned that it depends on which manufacturer you are using over there. Some are butchers, and some turn out a decent product, especially considering the price.

[J. Z. Guest]

A basic set is the way to go, in my opinion.

I started with this set for $40. (http://mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/graphics/set25yr.jpg)

http://mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/graphics/set25yr.jpg

The box it comes in is quite nice for a freebie. Box joint joinery and a nice latch.

[Mike Heidrick]

Brian at Holbren is the best. He can get just about any bit you need. His Whitesides are my favorite. Call him or shoot him a note. He will help you out.

[glenn bradley]

Whiteside lasts me the longest, Freud is right behind along with Amana. I use the money I save by not buying sets to buy better quality of those that I need. "But wait", you may say . .. how do you know what you need? I learned by buying all kinds of stuff during those $5 bit sales and such.

There are some better assembled sets now but back a ways there were not any that I found myself wanting. Cheap sets are a good way to find out what you DO want. Once the cheep-o's get dull, toss 'em and buy a quality replacement. The end result of this process is a collection of quality bits that you actually use and a collection of brand new cheap-o's that never even got tried. . . but, that's OK.

The usual suspects are (with some variation):

[Tim Allaire]

I was talking to a friend who purchased his Woodcraft set: Good Value?

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=4091

Seems comprehensive...Suggestions?

[Michael Wildt]

I have been pretty happy with the Rockler brand and Freud bits. I'm only a hobby'ist but they have given me nice results. I have purchased the bits individually depending on projects, like chamfer, roundover, template and different straight bits. I just got a woodcraft rabbit bit that I still have to try out.

Whiteside do get really good reviews so I might try some of those next time I have a need for new bits. There was also a bit test, I believe in FWW, a while back.

Michael

[Dave Falkenstein]

I was talking to a friend who purchased his Woodcraft set: Good Value?

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=4091

Seems comprehensive...Suggestions?

The 7 piece Whiteside set is a better deal than the 10 piece Woodcraft set, IMHO, and the prices are about the same after Holbren's SMC discount. Whiteside bits are among the best available. Not sure about the quality of Woodcraft bits - seems like Woodcraft comes up when people talk about the $5 sales they have.

[Tim Allaire]

Thanks, I will keep that it mind

[scott spencer]

This is the set I'd start with, if I were starting today:

http://www.holbren.com/product.php?productid=440&cat=24&bestseller

Ask about a SMC discount - 10% I think.

Great choice IMHO ...$80 for top grade American made cutters that includes the 7 most common profiles. Then you can add what you need. I try to stay with the better quality like Whiteside, Infinity, Freud, or CMT, but for specialty and/or profiles that don't see as heavy use, I think it's ok to go with a decent value grade import bit like the Holbren, Price Cutter, Woodline, or MLCS. "SMC10" is the discount code for Holbren.

[J. Z. Guest]

...Whiteside bits are among the best available...

Dave, this is a common sentiment, and I believe it. However, I would like to hear WHY folks think Whiteside are better. Just to know, not to challenge.

Do they stay sharper, longer?
Do they withstand repeated re-sharpenings better due to thicker carbide?
Is the finish better, compared to others?

If someone says one is better than the other, I would think they'd be able to put their finger on what makes them better. (aside from costing more)

[Tim Allaire]

Going along with that theme...is it worth time/money to have all bits resharpened? Obviously, if you buy something cheep then it may not be an issue, but what about a good set of bits. Sorry for the sophomoric themed question.

Tim

[David DeCristoforo]

"...is it worth time/money to have all bits resharpened?"

It really depends on the bit...how much a new one costs as opposed to how much it costs to re-grind it. Also, because they "sharpened" by "face grinding", sharpening alters the profile slightly so that a 1/4" straight bit will be under 1/4" after it is re-ground. A bit with a "shape" (a cove or ogee for example) will produce a slightly different profile after re-grinding. So in some instances, because of this alteration combined with the cost of having the bit sharpened, it is "better" to replace the bit.

YM

[Greg Hines, MD]

I was talking to a friend who purchased his Woodcraft set: Good Value?

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=4091

Seems comprehensive...Suggestions?


I bought my Woodcraft bits on their $5 per bit deal, and have been very pleased with them. I have had to replace the 1/2" straight bit, but only because I use it more than any of the others.

Doc

[Tim Allaire]

Other than a compromised "finished" product are there other signs of a warn bit? I thought burning was only due to slow speed rate. Is it also a way to know that bit is finished? THe few I have worked with seem to be in good shape (all bosch bits), but I have not used them to their max. capacity.

Tim

[Greg Hines, MD]

Going along with that theme...is it worth time/money to have all bits resharpened? Obviously, if you buy something cheep then it may not be an issue, but what about a good set of bits. Sorry for the sophomoric themed question.

Tim



Some people will sharpen their bits themselves, but never for shaping the bevel, just honing the flats of the bit. That will get some extra life out of a bit, but you should not work on the beveled part of the bit, because it will change the diameter of the bit. Use a fine diamond hone, and take light passes.

Doc

[Dave Falkenstein]

Dave, this is a common sentiment, and I believe it. However, I would like to hear WHY folks think Whiteside are better. Just to know, not to challenge.

Do they stay sharper, longer?
Do they withstand repeated re-sharpenings better due to thicker carbide?
Is the finish better, compared to others?

If someone says one is better than the other, I would think they'd be able to put their finger on what makes them better. (aside from costing more)

The answer to all three of your questions is yes. After all, what features can possibly make a router bit "better"? It has to produce quality cuts over time. However, the issues about sharpening router bits have already been discussed.

In most cases it is easy to determine which brands of router bits are the better brands - the better brands cost more for the same profile. Reputation is another measure. There are quite a few brands that are widely recognized as "better". The brands that I have gravitated to are Whiteside and Freud - consistently high quality bits that cut well over a long period of use. I have and use less expensive bits, many of which were bought for a specific project. When I wear out a bit, I replace it with a Whiteside or Freud.

[Dave Falkenstein]

Other than a compromised "finished" product are there other signs of a warn bit? I thought burning was only due to slow speed rate. Is it also a way to know that bit is finished? THe few I have worked with seem to be in good shape (all bosch bits), but I have not used them to their max. capacity.

Tim

Worn bits will cut more slowly or chatter as they get dull. Worn bits will leave fuzz on the edge of the cut. A worn bit will easily burn the material. A worn bit sometimes changes color because it has overheated.

[Dan Barr]

nope, i havent seen a "help bit". :D but if you ever come across one........

ciao,

dan

[glenn bradley]

Dave, this is a common sentiment, and I believe it. However, I would like to hear WHY folks think Whiteside are better. Just to know, not to challenge.

Do they stay sharper, longer?
Do they withstand repeated re-sharpenings better due to thicker carbide?
Is the finish better, compared to others?

If someone says one is better than the other, I would think they'd be able to put their finger on what makes them better. (aside from costing more)


Going along with that theme...is it worth time/money to have all bits resharpened? Obviously, if you buy something cheep then it may not be an issue, but what about a good set of bits. Sorry for the sophomoric themed question.

Tim

"Do they stay sharper, longer?"
- Yes
"Do they withstand repeated re-sharpenings better due to thicker carbide?"
- Yes and they are worth sharpening
"Is the finish better, compared to others?"
- Yes but if you want to really see a difference you should look at the triple wings and Freuds new quads .

"is it worth time/money to have all bits resharpened?"

Not always. I have a dozen bits I picked up during the Woodcraft $5 bit sale. I toss 'em. I have a drawer lock bit I bought for $18. It costs $15 to sharpen it plus I have to drop it off and pick it up. I toss it and buy a Whiteside for $29 and run it two or three times as long until it needs sharpening. Then for half price I can have it sharpened good as new. Alternately, I have a $55 bit that lasts 3 times as long as the cheap one and it costs $15 to sharpen it, yeah, I'd do that. Just like I would sharpen my Freud TS blades but toss my Oldhams (if I used them).