Blade alignment ? on new Jet Deluxe

[Paul Arnold]

I know that my blade is farther to the left at the back than at the front, by a slight amount (sorry no fancy micrometers, just a combo square and the miter slots). I know you're thinking "so fix it dummy!!" Well, I just don't know how. I read the directions for blade alignment and it says "loosen the 4 hex cap screws that hold the table to base. Make the needed adjustments and tighten the 4 hex cap screws firmly." That's just it, what are the "necessary adjustments?" This is all it says on the subject, period. This is my first cabinet, as if you couldn't already tell, and I have no idea as to what to do next. Do I loosen these 4 screws and turn the table top? If so, that seems like a crappy way to make fine adjustments!! Besides, I think that is going to be pretty tough now that I have a side table and 4'x8' outfeed/work table built to it.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

By the way, if I were to edge joint a board, could/should a TS be able to square up the remaing 3 edges?

Thanks,
Paul

[Eric Haycraft]

First of all, how does it cut? Is there binding/burning? Do you hear the back teeth engaging? If none of the above are true, maybe you don't need to adjust it after all. Some prefer to have the back 'kicked out' slightly. Usually a few thousandths.

Regarding making the adjustments, due to the weights involved, it is not too hard to get precise adjustments. You typically loosen 3 or 4 bolts holding the top on and bump the top with your hand, a block and hammer, rubber hammer, etc to move the top into position correctly. In your case with the large side table, tapping the cabinet rather than the top may prove simpler. Just make sure to tap it near the table and use a block of wood to prevent damage.

[Eddie Darby]

First I would get a dial gauge if I wanted accuracy. They aren't to expensive.

Yes you are moving the entire top in relation to the blade. It is a whole lot easier during the initial set-up of the saw if the wings aren't on. Once done you still need to check it from time to time.

I used a rubber mallet to gently tap the top to move it into alignment with the blade.
I found that loosening three bolts and having the fourth bolt just snug made the desired change more controllable.

Note that on most saws the two miter slots don't line-up with each other, so you align the slot you use the most. Life would be a lot nicer if the the two slots were parallel.

[Dave Falkenstein]

...maybe you don't need to adjust it after all. Some prefer to have the back 'kicked out' slightly. Usually a few thousandths....

Eric - Ummm - Sorry but you do not want the back of the blade "kicked out" in relation to the miter slot - you want it to be as parallel as possible. Some folks prefer the back of the fence to be kicked out in relation to the miter slot. I like everything parallel to .001" using a dial gauge.

Paul - are you using one tooth and rotating the blade to make your measurement of the blade to the slot? Using more than one tooth potentially introduces error that you do not want.

Loosen the bolts. Bump the top. Remeasure. Snug the bolts. Remeasure. Tighten the bolts.

[Tom Veatch]

...By the way, if I were to edge joint a board, could/should a TS be able to square up the remaing 3 edges?


Theoretically, yes.

Practically, the configuration of most boards (width significantly greater than thickness) will make it difficult to reliably resaw a face plane that is acceptably square to a narrow thickness reference plane.

If the workpiece is nearly square in cross section, you'll have a better chance of getting acceptable results. But, keep in mind that any lack of precision (and there will be some) in either the blade/table angle or your technique, will be additive with each sequential cut.

It's much more reliable to face joint a reference plane, use a thickness planer to get a face parallel to the reference face, edge joint square to the reference face and use the TS to get a square cut through the thickness parallel to the edge jointed reference.

[glenn bradley]

Once the four bolts are loosened the whole table top can be adjusted clockwise or counterclockwise to correct your path. This will be a useless effort without some measuring device. This can be sophisticated or just a couple pieces of wood and a brass screw like this: http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip030411sn.html

Don't remove the top or the bolts. If you absolutely must remove the table, mark the washers (if any) that come out and the location they came from . . . hint: they are shims not washers and you do NOT want to mix them up.