Chair Tutorial

[Mark Singer]

General Introduction:
Designing and building chairs are challenging to most woodworkers. It requires good drawing skills. Design layout and careful marking and measuring are essential. Woodworking skills including hand tool, machines, joinery (sometimes complex) and shaping are essential. A lot of the complexities of building can be reduced with careful attention to design.

Design
A chair must be comfortable or it is not serving the purpose for which it is intended.
Geometry…
The more vertical the seating position the smaller the seating footprint. The more relaxed the position, the larger the seating footprint. A barstool is smaller than a dining chair, which is smaller than a lounging chair, whise is smaller than a chaise and finally that is smaller than a bed.. The chair I am making is a lounge chair and I have chosen a seat size of 22” wide (net before arms) by 21 ½ long from rear cushion to front of cushion. I am allowing 1” rake or slope from front to rear . So at the spring point the back is 90 degrees and curves away as it rises. If there is a rear cushion you need to allow for its thickness.. I had my upholsterer , Raul , make a couple of trial cushions. I specified 5” thick and he used 5” and then wrapped them with dacron making them 6 ½ “ to 7” thick so I need to compensate.

I started by making a lot of sketches. From these a design was selected and full scale drawings , a side view and a plan view were drawn by hand. Then these were copied on sketch paper and mounted on ¼” MDF . Each chair part or component was cut out and a template was made. This way the chair can be made and repeated with great consistency.

[Mark Singer]

a few more pics

[Mark Singer]

Construction
The templates are then laid on the 8/4 poplar plank that is being used for the prototype. The chair part templates can be moved around to economize and reduce waste. The 12’ plank is jig sawed into smaller sections and the curved parts are bandsawed 1/16” over the line. The straight parts like stretchers are cut on the tablesaw. I carefully designed the side stretchers to meet the front leg and the rear leg at a 90 degree angle. The curved rear line merges with the “flat” intersection and it is not noticeable that is is square. This allows the side stretchers to be simple rectangles and simplifies the joinery. The front and rear leg to stretcher intersections are also 90 degrees. This would not be the case if the chair sides were splayed and not parallel . I have made a lot of chairs like that and you just need to take the angles right off the full size drawing.

The curved rear legs are paired after band sawing and shaped together with rasps and my Rotex. The top back stretcher and rear seat stretcher are cut from 16/4 (laminated) stock. The top stretcher is held in from the rear leg and angled normal to the slant to allow for blending of the curves.
For the puposes of the prototype all the joinery was Kreg jig, this allows for modifying if necessary. Only the top rear stretcher was doweled ina “post dowel” method, drilling after it was clamped and inserting dowels through the face. In the final chair all of these joints will be M and T blind joints. The seat is ¾” MDF held with ledgers.This will be hardwood planks in the real version. The rear slats were prepared quickly by resawing into ¼” thickness and gluing to a curve using clamps. These will be curved in a vacuum bag to a form for the final chair. Once dry I edge jointed them and installed them with the Kreg jig. I will use dowels eventually.
To insure the stretcher interface was square I hand planned the area on the rear curved legs.
Prototype options:
I am thinking of making 2 chairs with arms and 2 without. The beauty of the prototype is that it allows you to try options. If you wand more rake, cut down the rear legs. Want it higher add a block. Try a different arm style, the choice is yours.

I now have about 12 hours in the prototype and I feel it was time well spent! I can move forward certain of the comfort, geometry and joinery and not be guessing.

[Mark Singer]

More pictures:

[Mark Singer]

and a few more...

[Glenn Clabo]

Mark...
This is AWESOME!

[Mark Singer]

Mark...
This is AWESOME!

You and I think its awesome everyone else ....not so much:confused:

[Jim Becker]

The tutorial is awesome, Mark...thanks!

[Bill Huber]

Thank you ever so much... I have been thinking about making a chair but I really didn't know where to start.

Thanks again.

[Craig D Peltier]

Thanks for taking the time again. You do great work. I like your style as well being a former CALI guy.

[scott spencer]

I vote for "awesome"!

[Glen Gunderson]

You and I think its awesome everyone else ....not so much:confused:

I'm not so sure about that... I know that I was ecstatic upon seeing the beginning of another one of your tutorials and I'm sure many others feel the same way. While this thread may not get the post count of a Sawstop/Festool/110 vs. 220 argument, it's infinitely more valuable.

Frankly, I think your threads on here (past and present) are some of my most valuable resources for woodworking information on the internet and I routinely go back to them because of the valuable information contained within. It's very enjoyable to read about the how and the why of woodworking, rather than which tools to use (though I do enjoy the latter as well).

[John Shuk]

Mark,
I was beginning to wonder where you've been. It's nice to see your tutorials. The chair looks very nice although strikes me as a bit low... but then I have a bum knee.
It is very generous of you to chronicle your work methods.

[Ted Calver]

Mark,
Thank's for another great lesson! I'm still working on the platform bed....but I'll catch up.

[Jeff Wittrock]

Thanks a lot for the tutorial.

I was wondering if you always find yourself making a prototype, or just when you are making something very different... say a new design?

I am by no means an experienced wood worker, but I have tried quite a few different kinds of projects. I always find myself wanting to come back to chairs. To me, they are the most enjoyable project. But they can also be the most frustrating.

Building something that can stand the abuse that a chair will receive while at the same time making it reasonably comfortable, and add to that a decent appearance... well at least something easy on the eyes. I'm usually lucky to achieve one out of three.

I'm guessing a prototype is the only way to come close to getting three out of three.

[Mark Singer]

Thanks a lot for the tutorial.

I was wondering if you always find yourself making a prototype, or just when you are making something very different... say a new design?

I am by no means an experienced wood worker, but I have tried quite a few different kinds of projects. I always find myself wanting to come back to chairs. To me, they are the most enjoyable project. But they can also be the most frustrating.

Building something that can stand the abuse that a chair will receive while at the same time making it reasonably comfortable, and add to that a decent appearance... well at least something easy on the eyes. I'm usually lucky to achieve one out of three.

I'm guessing a prototype is the only way to come close to getting three out of three.

For chairs of new design a prototype is essential. The tutorial explains the benefits of the model chair. It is like an architectural model which helps resolve design issues before the home is built.

[Dave Ray]

Thanks Mark......I always learn from you.

[gary Zimmel]

Mark

I too would like to thank you for the tutorial.

By you taking the time to show a weekend warrior like me a few more ideas and techniques my skills will become a little better.

[glenn bradley]

Great walk through Mark, thanks. I was glad to see the proto effort. I build much less complex items than you do. But, I am still new enough at this that almost every project holds something new so I enjoy the freedom (make 'em outta cheap stuff, no fear) and the learning experience (oh, so that's what'll happen is I don't mortise that first) of prototypes.

[Jeffrey Makiel]

Mark...I haven't seen many posts from you lately, but when you do post, it's quite a treat. I always enjoy your posts, and this one is no exception. Very inspiring and informative.

Chairs are difficult. Slight changes in dimensions seem to really matter. I built four outdoor chairs many years ago. They have a contemporary design that was made from scratch. Each chair is slightly different as I tried to dial-in the comfort. On the last and fourth chair, I almost got it right. :)

thanks,
Jeff :)

[Matt Day]

Thanks Mark! It's perfect timing for me as I'm currently in the design stage of my chairs.

So to get your rake from the front of the seat to the back, you essentially cut down the rear legs, correct?

I plan to bandsaw out the solid wood, and use the 1/4" templates as guides for a flush trim router bit. Would that be a good idea?

[Mark Singer]

Thanks Mark! It's perfect timing for me as I'm currently in the design stage of my chairs.

So to get your rake from the front of the seat to the back, you essentially cut down the rear legs, correct?

I plan to bandsaw out the solid wood, and use the 1/4" templates as guides for a flush trim router bit. Would that be a good idea?

No I do not cut down the rear legs. I draw the chair on a baseline that represents the floor. This way the rake, back angle, curve etc. are all accounted for. If after making the chair you want to increase the angle, you can cut down the rear legs. That is the real beauty of the prototype, you can sit in it , look at it and decide if it is what you really want and what feels comfortable.

[Pat Germain]

I'll go ahead and play "master of the obvious" and state not only is this tutorial awesome, but we greatly appreciate as a very talented and busy professional woodworker, you take the time to share lessons, designs and pictures here.

I'm more of a newbie woodworker, but I know advanced woodworkers also learn from you every time you post. Thanks!

[Mike Cutler]

Nice work Mark and thank you for taking time out to take the pic's, and post 'em.

Don't worry that no one thinks it's awesome, I think it's incredible, and extremely generous.
I didn't see it until 5am EST this morning. I was shoveling out paddocks when you posted this last nite. Believe me, I would have rather been reading this.
Snow, mud, rain, manure, and no Muck boots.... Priceless.:rolleyes:

[Kent Parker]

Mark,

Always a treat to read your tutorials. I know for me it can be a pain to stop the work flow and concentration a project can demand and most certainly appreciate your time in photographing and explaining your current work.

Thanks for making me think. It helps by continuing the learning process that much of us crave in the quest to become better at what we do.

I can't tell by the photos but are the the side stretchers flush with the short front legs are do the legs stand pround slightly ?

Cheers,

Kent

[Mark Singer]

Any Drawings yet?

[Peter Quadarella]

That's great. When I think about wanting to build fine furniture someday, what I really think about is building chairs. You can never have too many chairs. Thanks for giving me a look into how to get started with my own design, up until now I have only used other's designs for outdoor (rough and cheap) furniture.

[Glenn Clabo]

Don't worry that no one thinks it's awesome

What am I...chop livah?

[Joe Unni]

What am I...chop livah?

Showing a bit of New England? ;)

[Glenn Clabo]

Figures you'd notice.;)

[Mark Singer]

What am I...chop livah?

Chopped liver is not a good shape for a chair....more like a bean bag

a lamb chop...now your talking

[Glenn Clabo]

Had this a few days ago...
Roasted Colorado rack of lamb; celeriac soubise, pancetta-candied beet hash, Lustau sherry demi-glace

Here at one of our favorite places...
http://www.castlehillinn.com/

[Joe Chritz]

It looks very nice and probably very comfy to boot.

What with hockey playoffs coming I am going to have to make some TV time so I will generously offer to do some beta testing for you.

Seeing as how you are in California hockey is a sport played on ice which is what happens when water gets really cold.

Joe

[Mark Singer]

It looks very nice and probably very comfy to boot.

What with hockey playoffs coming I am going to have to make some TV time so I will generously offer to do some beta testing for you.

Seeing as how you are in California hockey is a sport played on ice which is what happens when water gets really cold.

Joe

Sounds similar to surfing, beer gets cold, we sit on the beach and look at Bikinis and waves.:rolleyes::cool:

[Mark Singer]

Had this a few days ago...
Roasted Colorado rack of lamb; celeriac soubise, pancetta-candied beet hash, Lustau sherry demi-glace

Here at one of our favorite places...
http://www.castlehillinn.com/

Yes! That and I nice chair a glass of pinot and some woodworking conversation :rolleyes:

[Mike Cutler]

What am I...chop livah?

Oh sure, now we put on a Brookline accent?? :rolleyes:

Chopped liver you certainly are not.;)

The Castlehill Inn sounds fabulous. Maybe I can get LOML past the Antique stores and Bowen's Wharf, and check it out.
I just got done with a pint of Guiness and Philly Cheese Steak ( Norwich Style), now I'm hungry again.:eek:

Mark.
Before we get completely off track. Thank you for the tutorial.;)

[Jim Robbins]

General Introduction:
Designing and building chairs are challenging to most woodworkers. It requires good drawing skills. Design layout and careful marking and measuring are essential. Woodworking skills including hand tool, machines, joinery (sometimes complex) and shaping are essential. A lot of the complexities of building can be reduced with careful attention to design.

Design
A chair must be comfortable or it is not serving the purpose for which it is intended.
Geometry…
The more vertical the seating position the smaller the seating footprint. The more relaxed the position, the larger the seating footprint. A barstool is smaller than a dining chair, which is smaller than a lounging chair, whise is smaller than a chaise and finally that is smaller than a bed.. The chair I am making is a lounge chair and I have chosen a seat size of 22” wide (net before arms) by 21 ½ long from rear cushion to front of cushion. I am allowing 1” rake or slope from front to rear . So at the spring point the back is 90 degrees and curves away as it rises. If there is a rear cushion you need to allow for its thickness.. I had my upholsterer , Raul , make a couple of trial cushions. I specified 5” thick and he used 5” and then wrapped them with dacron making them 6 ½ “ to 7” thick so I need to compensate.

I started by making a lot of sketches. From these a design was selected and full scale drawings , a side view and a plan view were drawn by hand. Then these were copied on sketch paper and mounted on ¼” MDF . Each chair part or component was cut out and a template was made. This way the chair can be made and repeated with great consistency.
Hi Mark
Have you ever used the chair joinery similar to that which Sam Maloof uses? I've been trying to find a detailed example of such with no success.
Thanks
Jim Robbins