Trying to find a new motor for my old saw.

[Kyle Costlow]

http://baldor.thomasnet.com/item/baldor-all-categories-ac-motors/pump/vl1313a-3988?&plpver=1018&origin=keyword&by=prod&filter=0
would this be a good choice(a used one) for a 113.298xxx craftsman saw?

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Kyle, I have no idea what kind of motor your saw requires, however the one you've selected is a C face mount.

It doesn't have a base to bolt it to a bracket on a saw, it has a machined face that is meant to bolt directly to a gear reducer or pump.

I have never seen a Craftsman table saw with this motor mounting method.

The other parameters look suitable for saw use.

Regards, Rod.

[J. Z. Guest]

I don't have any idea either of what motor would work.

Does your present motor have markings for what NEMA frame it is? The frame spec ties down lots of the critical dimensions, and may even tie down the mounting type.

In that page you linked to, there's a NEMA quick link in PDF at the upper right of the page. This motor is a NEMA 56C frame, which you can look up in the quick reference chart to help you figure out if it is the right size.

Other than that, I would probably prefer a TEFC motor instead of the ODP motor you chose for woodworking duty. TEFC = Totally Enclosed, Fan-Cooled. ODP = Open, Drip-Proof. Sawdust will get into the ODP designs and cause it to run hotter over time.

In my opinion, Baldor makes top-of-the-line motors, though they're expensive.

[M Toupin]

What's wrong with your motor? A lot of motor problems are cheap to repair and you can do them yourself. If your motor is dead for good, then a cost effective alternative would be in line. Personally, I just can't see the economics of putting a $400 motor on that saw... not that the motor would even work without a lot of "engineering".

Mike

[Kyle Costlow]

heh, I'm not looking at a new one. I have no money so I found one for 8$(at least for now on ebay), I was just posting the spec sheet, to see anyone could tell me if it would work.. Other suggestions are welcome. My current motor works and I cleaned it up. I just want to see if I can get something more powerful without shelling out a lot of cash. If not my current motor will be fine until I get into thicker hardwoods.

[Mike Henderson]

I have almost the same saw. It was given to me with a dead motor and I eventually bought a 2HP motor for it. The 2HP is a bit large (physically) for the saw but it works.

Mine is a 56 frame. The other thing that's important is the rotation - clockwise or counterwise (or reversable) - mine is reversable and I don't remember whether I have it set for CW or CCW. If at all possible, it's nice to get a TEFC (totally enclosed, fan cooled) because that will keep the sawdust out of the motor. For a short time I used a non-TFEC and had to blow it out when it wouldn't start (because the starting switch was fouled with sawdust).

If you only have 115volts for the motor, you might stick to a 1.5HP just to make sure the 15 amp circuit will handle it. If you can wire up your own circuit, you can go 20amp 220 volt and that will easily handle a 2HP.

I bought my motor on eBay also and have been very satisfied with it. It's Weg, if I remember correctly.

Good luck,
Mike

[Oh, and after I got a motor, I had to get a link belt because the saw had a lot of vibration. The link belt quieted it down quite a bit. Check that your pulleys are running true, also.]

[Sam Yerardi]

Kyle,

Mike gave you good advise if you replace the motor. If you keep the motor, your best bet to keep up with harder wood it to keep the blade as sharp as you can, and to use the right blade for the right application, i.e., crosscut v.s. rip, etc.

If you are electrically-inclined, junk yards are an excellent source for very cheap but good motors. Fine Woodworking did an article on it and it is available as a pdf on the net:

\http://www.owwm.com/files/PDF/FAQ/FindingMotors.pdf

It is an excellent overview on motors, etc. and will asnwer the questions you have.

[scott spencer]

Hi Kyle - I think your saw is left tilt, meaning you'll need a motor that spins clockwise as you face the shaft, or is reversible. I also think it's a NEMA 56 frame, which is fairly common. Most of the motors on those saws were ~ 1hp. Also be sure that whatever motor you get is not compressor duty. You'll probably want a 1.5hp if you upgrade.

It's likely that even a used motor will run in $40-$125 range. Ebay, Craigslist, and the free classifieds on wwing forums are good places to look. You may even end up taking one off another tool. Have you blown the dust out of your existing motor? I think I'd get the saw tuned up with a decent blade and see what you've got before sinking money into another motor....it might not be necessary.

[Kyle Costlow]

good advice, thanks everyone:D

[Kyle Costlow]

BALDOR 2HP 3 PH 56H TEFC ELECTRIC MOTOR
http://i8.ebayimg.com/06/i/000/db/c1/7a69_2.JPG

What does the 3 phase mean? This might be a good choice if I choose to upgrade since its TEFC.

This is my motor mount
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y2/nomad85/DSC_2158.jpg

[Pete Simmons]

3 phase means you probably would not be able to run this motor at your home without a converter $$$.


3 phase is used for higher amp situations and is normally available in a more industrial area.

Not impossible to run at your house but difficult and expensive.

[Mike Henderson]

You definitely want a single phase motor. DO NOT get involved with a 3 phase 1.5HP motor. There's a reason small 3 phase motors sell for almost nothing.

Mike

[Pete Simmons]

I have a 220 volt only 1.5 hp 0.75 dia shaft motor I will give to anybody who wants it.

As far as I know it ran when removed but not garranteed.


You pay shipping. It is heavy.

If you visit Florida. I am 1 hour from Disney and 30 minutes from the Space Center in Melbourne. Stop by and you can have it.

[Kyle Costlow]

I actually going to florida in a few weeks, I sent you a PM.