Gord Graff
02-24-2008, 7:28 AM
Hi All,
Since there has been a number of questions and comments raised about the biscuit jointer jig I used in the Pine Hall Mirror video http://blip.tv/file/688794 in another thread, I thought I’d post the jig here. Here is the original posting I did in 2006 of a biscuit jointer jig that made its way into the pages of Fine Woodworking Magazine. I hope this helps.
All the best
Gord
.................................................. .................................................. ..............
Hello All,
I was presenting a seminar on biscuit joinery the other night and after the class one of the attendees came to me and couldn’t believe how my simple biscuit joiner jig could solve a number of problems he had. He was so amazed with the simple thing that the only thing I could do was hand it to him and say, “here you go”.
After giving it away I knew that I would have to make a new one, so this morning I did just that and documented it in hopes that it may help someone else.
Like most woodworkers, I embraced biscuit joinery many years ago and like most woodworkers, I never seem to have enough flat usable space to register the joiner off of when joining ¾” material. Using my bench as a flat surface to register my biscuit joiner off of is a crapshoot most days as it is covered with dried on glue drops and whatnots. My solution to this has always been a simple modified bench hook that serves a number of biscuit joinery scenarios. Not only does this jig give you a flat smooth surface to work off of when working with ¾” material, the jig’s fence makes a great stop for working with thicker material when using the biscuit joiner’s fence to register off of.
Would you trust this bench surface to be accurate?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v191/gordgraff/1.jpg
The jig starts off with nothing more than a piece of 12” X 16” X ¾” melamine and two pieces of 2”X18” X ¾” plywood. With a handful of #8 X 1 ¼” particle board screws you’ve got all you need to make this little jig.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v191/gordgraff/2.jpg
The first step is to take the 2” wide plywood and cut a ¼”X ¼ “ rabbet along one edge, this will act as nothing more than a place for stray dust to collect instead of the area between the fence and the work piece.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v191/gordgraff/3.jpg
Photo #4 show the completed fence installed on the piece of ¾” melamine using 4, #8 X 1 ¼” particle board screws. These screws are great for biting into melamine coated particle board or plywood.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v191/gordgraff/4.jpg
After the first plywood fence is installed, turn the piece over and install the second piece of 2”X18” X ¾” plywood fence on the underside of the melamine, this fence will become our “split fence”. Here is what the fence should look like installed but go to Photo #6 before you start installing this fence as there are a few details (screw placement) you need to know about.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v191/gordgraff/5.jpg
The fence is installed as one piece (screwed top and bottom) and the 2”X4” cut-out is then marked on the fence, the fence then removed and the cut-out made. I prefer to do it this way so that the fence, when its center section is removed will go back into its original place while remaining square to the sides of the melamine.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v191/gordgraff/6.jpg
.........................end of part one.
Since there has been a number of questions and comments raised about the biscuit jointer jig I used in the Pine Hall Mirror video http://blip.tv/file/688794 in another thread, I thought I’d post the jig here. Here is the original posting I did in 2006 of a biscuit jointer jig that made its way into the pages of Fine Woodworking Magazine. I hope this helps.
All the best
Gord
.................................................. .................................................. ..............
Hello All,
I was presenting a seminar on biscuit joinery the other night and after the class one of the attendees came to me and couldn’t believe how my simple biscuit joiner jig could solve a number of problems he had. He was so amazed with the simple thing that the only thing I could do was hand it to him and say, “here you go”.
After giving it away I knew that I would have to make a new one, so this morning I did just that and documented it in hopes that it may help someone else.
Like most woodworkers, I embraced biscuit joinery many years ago and like most woodworkers, I never seem to have enough flat usable space to register the joiner off of when joining ¾” material. Using my bench as a flat surface to register my biscuit joiner off of is a crapshoot most days as it is covered with dried on glue drops and whatnots. My solution to this has always been a simple modified bench hook that serves a number of biscuit joinery scenarios. Not only does this jig give you a flat smooth surface to work off of when working with ¾” material, the jig’s fence makes a great stop for working with thicker material when using the biscuit joiner’s fence to register off of.
Would you trust this bench surface to be accurate?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v191/gordgraff/1.jpg
The jig starts off with nothing more than a piece of 12” X 16” X ¾” melamine and two pieces of 2”X18” X ¾” plywood. With a handful of #8 X 1 ¼” particle board screws you’ve got all you need to make this little jig.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v191/gordgraff/2.jpg
The first step is to take the 2” wide plywood and cut a ¼”X ¼ “ rabbet along one edge, this will act as nothing more than a place for stray dust to collect instead of the area between the fence and the work piece.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v191/gordgraff/3.jpg
Photo #4 show the completed fence installed on the piece of ¾” melamine using 4, #8 X 1 ¼” particle board screws. These screws are great for biting into melamine coated particle board or plywood.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v191/gordgraff/4.jpg
After the first plywood fence is installed, turn the piece over and install the second piece of 2”X18” X ¾” plywood fence on the underside of the melamine, this fence will become our “split fence”. Here is what the fence should look like installed but go to Photo #6 before you start installing this fence as there are a few details (screw placement) you need to know about.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v191/gordgraff/5.jpg
The fence is installed as one piece (screwed top and bottom) and the 2”X4” cut-out is then marked on the fence, the fence then removed and the cut-out made. I prefer to do it this way so that the fence, when its center section is removed will go back into its original place while remaining square to the sides of the melamine.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v191/gordgraff/6.jpg
.........................end of part one.