Sharpening Husky 455 Rancher chain? Correct size file and file guide

[Scott Hubl]

I'm picking up some walnut logs in the morning, but my 2 chains are DULL. http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yellowbigeek.gif

I never sharpened a chain before, hence the second chain.

What sized file and file guide do I need for the 455 Rancher? http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yellowconfused.gif

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p59/AmericanAndProud/Woodnet/Husky-box-web.jpg

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p59/AmericanAndProud/Woodnet/Hushy-web.jpg

20 inch bar came on it.

I really need some TIPS on this one!ASAP

Thanks.

[Nathan Hawkes]

Your saw is probably going to need a 7/32" file, but maybe a 3/16". It depends on what type of chain you're using. Oregon makes a good clamp-on file jig, as does Granberg. Both of them are more or less the same in quality and design. Expect to spend $25-40. You can set the depth rakers with them also. I have one of the grinders from Northern Tool, which is an exact copy of the Oregon 511A grinder, NOT the plastic framed one. I spent about $90 on mine, which performs almost as well as a $250 grinder.



Long story short, you should do a web search on chain filing. Oregon has a tutorial that is relatively easy to understand for new users on their site. It explains all the angles and importance of filing depth rakers.


http://www.oregonchain.com/tech/tech_guides.htm

[Bill Stevener]

Why dont you ask the place where you bought the stuff??

I would think they should know.

[Nathan Hawkes]

I'd also mention that since this is obviously a new saw, I'd richen up the oil mix a little bit--maybe run 40:1 gas/oil mix instead of 50:1, and de-tune the engine a little bit. That is, turn the high screw a quarter turn or so counter clockwise. With the engine running, you should hear a drop in the rpm level slightly as you do this. If it goes up in RPM, you turned it the wrong way. There is a high and low jet. Don't adjust the low jet screw.


By doing this, you'll "break in" your saw safely, and the rings will seat without overheating and scoring the cylinder.


Take it easy for the first 10 tanks of gas through it or so. There are a lot of opinions on this, mine is no better than a lot of other people's. I frequent a chainsaw forum, and this seems to be the most-often suggestion; turn the RPM down, and richen up the oil mix. It just keeps the saw in the best possible conditions to break it in right. Don't let anyone tell you they don't need to be broken in. I've seen the inside of cylinders after people just run them wide open throttle (WOT) and its not pretty. Translation; new saw needed.


Be safe, and don't forget your PPE (personal protective equipment). I have a pair of kevlar chaps, and steel toed boots, as well as a Stihl forestry helmet with goggles under the mesh, and good quality gloves. I'd seriously consider buying some chaps. A decent pair can be bought for little more than $50, and could easily save your life. Check out this video:

http://www.labonville.com/videos/v2.htm

[Nathan Hawkes]

Why dont you ask the place where you bought the stuff??

I would think they should know.



I think I can see the "Lowe's" sticker in the picture. They're pretty much useless.

[Jason Roehl]

Nathan, I have a Husqy saw (372xp), and out of the box, they are tuned to run 50:1 on Husqy brand oil (all mine has seen). They are also tuned a touch rich for until they are broken in--you're supposed to have them serviced and leaned out a bit after so many hours.

Check the manual, it should have a chart giving you all the particulars on the bar and chain you have, including file size.

I also wouldn't worry about "taking it easy" on the chainsaw. It's a 2-cycle engine--they're typically designed to be run full throttle all the time.

[John Fricke]

File size is dependent on chain tooth size not chainsaw model or bar length. Most small engine shops that carry chain saws will grind your chain for a few bucks. Good to have a file on hand for touchups but I always get mine sharpened on a grinder. Chain wears a lil faster but they cut so much better than hand filing.

[Scott Hubl]

It runs perfect.

Bought at Lowes and you really want me to ask them?

They had NO clue when I bught the saw what file was needed for it.

I ended up buying the Husqvarna 3/8" file kit guessing on my own at time of purchase last year. It says 3/8" file kit across the package top but then next to the 2 files in the package it has 7/32" (5.5 mm) printed The package also lists H42, H45, H46 ect but no 455. Neither of the file kits they carried has a 455 listed on the package.

The lowes clerk didn't even know they had the files.

I'm looking through the manual AND husqvarnas web site right now and can't find an answer.

Pic of saw was when new ive cut lots of logs with it since then. I bought it last year.

[Bill Stevener]

Well, I'll tell you what. The right size file will fit the tooth exactly. If all you have is Lowes, get one of each size they have, keep and use the one that fits and return the others. Remember to note the size you kept. :D
Or bring a chain to Lowes, open a package until you find the file that fits. Buy two, well two generally comes in a pack.

Hint: don't start with a 1/2"..:eek:

[Jason Roehl]

Scott, "H42, H45, H46" are Husqy chain designations, not saws. The file size should be listed in your manual. Be careful--it's NOT the same thing as the chain pitch (which could also be 3/8" with this saw). It should be 5/32", 3/16" or 7/32".

[Russ Peters]

just another PPE recomodation... get at least a good pair of earplugs I got the helmet with the face shield and headphones all in one... not had anything fly of a lathe at me yet but a little branch sure does hurt when it gets thrown at you....

[Nathan Hawkes]

Nathan, I have a Husqy saw (372xp), and out of the box, they are tuned to run 50:1 on Husqy brand oil (all mine has seen). They are also tuned a touch rich for until they are broken in--you're supposed to have them serviced and leaned out a bit after so many hours.

Check the manual, it should have a chart giving you all the particulars on the bar and chain you have, including file size.

I also wouldn't worry about "taking it easy" on the chainsaw. It's a 2-cycle engine--they're typically designed to be run full throttle all the time.


I run a modded 394XP and a stihl MS-361. Both Husky and Stihl dealers locally suggested running a higher ratio mix. The reason I mentioned the WOT is because I run both of my saws for long duration at WOT, not just a 5-10 second cut at a time. I have a series of bars for slabbing with a Granberg alaskan mill, up to 42". I use the stihl for a small bandsaw mill. I guess I'm stuck in the mindset of running the saw for 10 minutes per cut. I wasn't aware that Husky detuned their saws out of the box. I bought both mine used, so I didn't know they came richened up. Just didn't want to see a brand new chainsaw user end up with a toasted piston & cylinder the first time out.



edit: I'm relatively certain that Husky chain is Oregon chain, as Oregon makes their replaceable tip bars. Regardless of make, the bar itself should be stamped with the gauge of chain, and the number of drive links in it. That should be able to tell you what file to use.

[Scott Hubl]

here a link to the manual on amazon scroll down some in PDF

Im not sure what there info means on page 38?http://www.amazon.com/Husqvarna-Forest-965030298-Rancher-Chainsaw/dp/B00080MIJI

[Nathan Hawkes]

which part?

[Scott Hubl]

:confused: The part that tells me which file to use to sharpen the saws chain.

The manual has no instructions on sharpening.

[Nathan Hawkes]

There are several pitches of chain; this is the average distance between rivets. The most common pitches are 1/4" (top handle arborist saws only) .325, 3/8", and .404. Yours is either .325 or 3/8". To compound the issue, there are three common gauges (thickness of the drive links). .050, .058, and .063. Huskys are usually .050 or .058.

[Scott Hubl]

Thats what I don't understand , why dont MY manual just tell me what chain I have and what file I NEED to sharpen the darn thing?:confused::mad:

No one has bought this 455 at Lowes?
What file are you using?

Thats basically what I need to know, and the manual isnt helpful.

[Nathan Hawkes]

You need to look on the bar. It will tell you whether it is set for 3/8" chain or for .325" chain. The sprockets aren't interchangeable. If it is 3/8" chain, you have the right file. If it is .325" chain, you need a 3/16" file, according to the chart.

[Jason Roehl]

Okay, here you go, Scott. Look at the numbers stamped on the drive links of your chain. If they're "25" or "30" (or "H25" or "H30"), then the file size is 3/16". If the stamp is "42" or "H42", then the file size is 7/32".

Take note also of the 4th column in the second chart on page 38. That's your filing angle.

I should mention that if your chains are very dull, you are probably ahead to either buy a new chain (for tomorrow) and/or take the one(s) you have to a professional sharpener. Hand filing a very dull chain is not fun and tends not to produce good results, especially in the hands of a novice. (How many people here would hand-file their TS blades?)

You may also need to file the rakers down (you'll need a filing depth gauge) to get a consistent 0.025".

[Nathan Hawkes]

thats good advice.

[Jason Roehl]

Looking back through the manual, page 12 has some filing advice as well, and a guide to the symbols used in the table on page 38.

[Scott Hubl]

Thanks everyone,
When I bought my saw originally I bought this>http://http://www.usa.husqvarna.com/products_product_specific_accessories_details.aspx ?pid=5203 Kit.

The middle one of the 3. Although I get an ERROR when choosing it to print the product sheet. http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yellowmad.gif

I bought the 3/8" File Kit with 7/32" files and a flat file in the kit. - 505 69 81-12 - 3/8" (H42, H45, H46, H47, H475, H48, H485, H51, H54, H8 and H81)
My roller guide is blue.

I decided to just run out to Lowes and bought Two Husqvarna 20" chains for the Rancher 455 right on the package, so I'm all set with 2 New Sharp chains for going out to Wades for the walnut he has .

I now have 4 chains and will find a place to sharpen them.

Looking at the NEW chains it does say on the pacakage H80 (72V),Drive Links 72, Pitch 3/8", Gauge .050", 7/32" (5.5mm)

So I guess when I bought my saw I guessed right on the file and roller thing. (which basically has no directions for its use) Only a couple black line drawings with no words on the back of the package. http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yellowrolleyes.gif

Thanks for the help , I'll have to have the sharpener guy show me how to use that roller thing for quick on site touch ups.

I will NOT hit dirt tomorrow with the chain, lesson learned. http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/slap.gif

And now I will keep Sharp chains on hand for the unexpected Free wood offers.

Thanks again for the help.


Just now founf on Huskys web site.- Husky Sharpening Vid.

[Jason Roehl]

Scott, this is my first year NOT burning wood for heat in quite some time, but here's a few things I've learned about chains. Don't keep a bunch of chains around--it's easier to change a chain than sharpen it, so you'll end up doing that instead of sharpening, and have a whole slew of dull chains at some point when you need to do some cutting. Also, as you said, keep it out of the dirt. This includes cutting through the bottom sections of hollow trees, which are often full of decayed tree matter--dirt. If you suspect it's hollow cut around it instead of through. As soon as you notice the performance of a chain decrease, stop using it. Change chains or sharpen. It's much, much easier and quicker to sharpen a slightly dull chain than a very dull one. Dull chains just make you work harder and wear you out, at which point you'll start making poor safety decisions.

BTW, I use a Harbor Freight chainsaw sharpener. Works great. It's like a mini-miter saw with a pink grinding wheel instead of a blade. I paid about $80 several years ago, but that was for an Italian-made item. They've since replace it with a Chinese knock-off that sells for about half that.

[Stan Terrell]

The rancher comes with a 3/8 pitch chain. Therefore a 7/32 file is used

Stan

[Curt Fuller]

I've had very good results using the Dremel sharpening setup. If you find the size you need, dremel makes 3 or 4 different grinder bits so one should work. One thing I learned using the dremel though is to take a very light grind. It doesn't take much to sharpen and too much just wears out the teeth fast.