Big Bandsaws and Small Blades

[Jeremy Leasure]

A few weeks ago a tornado carried away all my tools. So I'm going through the headache of analyzing every tool I buy, again. I like making bandsaw boxes, and the bandsaw I had before, the GO555x, was nice but I usually wanted more height. I ordered the riser block kit but never got to put it on before it was a moot point.

This time round, since I discovered I really love working with a bandsaw I'm going a bit more spendy. I've just about settled on the GO514X2. Thats not a definite though, but it seems like the best fit for me as it allows me to also pick up the big floor standing Grizzly oscillating spindle sander which is a bandsaw box makers best friend.

I've been looking at the guides, and guide systems and all kinds of stuff but since bandsaw boxes are kind of a special situation, in that you have really thick stock and often have tight corners to turn I haven't turned up much and I'm kind of confused on all the different guides, to be honest. The smallest blade I'll be using on a regular basis is 1/8". Will the guide system on the 514x2 support this blade? On the GO555x I really couldn't get the bearings to back out far enough that the set of the teeth got flattened by them.

If it won't is there an aftermarket solution for this model saw? I really like the looks of the carter guide, it looks simple AND effective. If my saw choice isn't going to work for what I need it for, is there another saw in that price range, with at least 12" resaw that WILL? I appreciate any and all advice.

[David DeCristoforo]

I can't tell you anything about the bandsaws you mention having never used them but I can tell you that the Carter blade guides are absolutely worth the investment.

YM

[Rob Will]

I have a Moak 36 equipped with Carter wheels and guides. It will handle any blade from 1/8" up to 1-1/4" with ease. Yes the Carter guides are good but be aware that there are many styles depending on what you want to do. I would look at some old iron or possibly a Mini Max before buying.

Rob

[Lance Norris]

This is what you want for 1/8"-1/4" bandsaw blades. I have one on my Grizzly G0457. You may have to call or email Carter to see what fits the 514x2 since its fairly new.

http://www.carterproducts.com/product_list.asp?cat_id=14

[Peter Quadarella]

What is drawing your eye toward the G0514X2 as opposed to the G0513X2? I had settled on the 17", but can purchase the 19" if I choose, but I'm not sure I can justify it.

Sorry, can't help with info on the guides.

[Jeremy Leasure]

What is drawing your eye toward the G0514X2 as opposed to the G0513X2? I had settled on the 17", but can purchase the 19" if I choose, but I'm not sure I can justify it.

Sorry, can't help with info on the guides.

Mainly the 1 extra horsepower and the rack and pinion table tilt. The extra 2 inches of throat depth is really just a bonus, as it concerns me less than the resaw height. And it weighs substantially more, which I suppose a good amount of that weight is in the wheels, which adds to momentum.

I'm hoping to buy my last bandsaw short of another tornado this time around. I haven't completely settled on this one, I've been considering even higher priced options such as the MM16 and the GO636X.

[John Keeton]

I know Peter is still undecided and we have exchanged thoughts on the 513x2 which I recently purchased. I love the saw, think the power is sufficient, and yes, it will accomodate the 1/8" blade. I purchased from Suffolk an assortment of blades, including the 1/8", (2) 1/4" blades, and a 3/4" resaw blade. The saw comes with 1/2" blade. I am using the 1/4" as my default blade and it works great. I think it really comes down to the main use for the saw. Resawing will be a minimal part of what I use the saw for, and 12" is plenty as I never see wood wider than that - or maybe just to cheap to pay the price for it!! But, it looks like the 636 would be a great saw as well if money is not restricted. On another note, I would think that a large part of the extra 29lbs of weight difference in the 513x2 and the 514x2 is in the motor and table and not so much in the wheels. Note that the 514x2 has a steel trunnion compared to cast iron in the 513x2 and the 636, a feature that would seem to be worth considering. The new comparison chart is a big help and wish it was there when I was doing my 6 weeks of pondering!!

[Brian Kent]

John, I think the G0514X has steel trunions but the G0514X2 has cast iron.

[Peter Quadarella]

I'm sort of settled on the G0513X2 and just waiting for the Charlotte Woodworking show to come in 2 weeks before starting to spend money on tools again. It's just that I can go for the 514 if I want, and usually bigger is better. I think I will probably still go for the 17". I don't think I need the extra horse. The only variable for me is the rack and pinion table tilt; it's hard for me to say whether I will miss that feature or not.

John, does the 513 table feel sturdy when it's tilted?

[John Keeton]

Brian is right on the 514x2 having cast iron trunions - old age, bad eyesight!! Peter, I haven't had occassion to work with the table tilted yet, but in just setting up the saw and the stops, etc., it seemed very stable. There was no noticeable movement and the table is hefty and solid. I had mentioned to you the problem I had with the stripping of the threads on the hose/post when I installed the blade guard. I have attached a pic showing my fix. Grizzly sent another post, but since the wall thickness just catches 2 threads, I think going ahead with the thru bolts is a permanent fix.

[Peter Quadarella]

Your fix sounds like it is better than the original design. I'll watch out for this when I finally get a saw.

[Dave MacArthur]

Peter,
I myself have also decided on the 514X2 vs. the 513x2, after much looking. I think they're both GREAT saws, and would really be happy with either. Here's my thoughts on why:
1. FOOT BRAKE--not mentioned before. This is a great thing to have, very nice to improve safety so you're not reaching in near the blade too early. The manual calls it an 'emergency brake', but Shiraz has written he uses it to stop the saw most every time, so don't get distracted by that label.
2. Table adjustment trunion/gear. IMO this is a huge benefit! The table is supported much more massively. I plan on acquiring local wood and resawing chunks/logs for veneer, and the 3 point table support would be a benefit.
3. 3 HP vs. 2, heavier, larger table.

Both seem great. For me, the extra $345 is worth it to not find myself thinking later "I should have gotten slightly bigger...". The only thing that would dissappoint me would be if I found I couldn't use small blades when desired.

[Jim O'Dell]

Peter, I'm guessing from your comment about waiting for the woodworking show in 2 weeks, that you are wanting to look at some other items before you make the final decision? I guess what I'm wanting to say is don't expect to see the Grizzly products there, they don't attend. But you may be able to see Laguna, Steel City (hopefully they will be there), Jet, Delta (although they may not have any of the bigger band saws). Not sure if Mini Max is hitting the shows now or not. Should be to see some other items you'll want in your tool arsenal, though. Happy shopping!! Jim.

[Peter Quadarella]

I am interested in seeing the Steel City saw if it is there; and generally want to see and feel a bit before starting the next cash outflow ;). I don't know why since I'm pretty sure I'm going with Grizzly, I think its a due diligence thing.

[Wayne Cannon]

This may work for the Griz. The guides on my 18" Jet would not allow me to use a narrow blade. However, I was able to get an adapter to allow me to use the same after-market Carter guides sold for the 14" bandsaws, including the rear "stabilizer" wheel-guide for narrow blades. I didn't find the adapter listed anywhere, but after making some phone calls, discovered that an adapter was available. I don't remember where I found it, but it was probably Carter (possibly Iturra).

[Jeremy Leasure]

I've been looking at the upper guide assembly for the 514X, which I'm assuming is the same for the 514X2. Where exactly do the Carter Stabilizers plug in? Does it go in part 152-2? If so, does anyone know what size hex hole that is? 1/2"? This http://tinyurl.com/39k5hh should work if it is.

http://Chaotic.smugmug.com/photos/258359084_cdyyP-L.jpg

[Chris Barnett]

Have the 514X2; a 1/4 inch blade will not fit existing guides. Suggest you obtain a smaller bearing and guide setup. Saw works great, particularly the tilt, which I have used several times; extremely rigid. With a 1 inch Lennox bimetal, easily cuts 1/16 inch veneer from 12 inch board. Will require some sanding to smooth the very slight blade marks, but might not need to do that with a Trimaster. Have not been able to finish table alignment to blade due to inadequate clearance with bolt holes and cast iron carriage. May need to enlarge table hole clearance when I have time. The cast iron wheel bearings have become very noisy, and I anticipate early failure.

[John Browne]

For bandsaw boxes it would seem like you'd be changing blades a lot if you're only using one saw? Tiny blade to do the twisty bits and then a fatter blade to slice off the top and bottom. I think with a 1/8" blade either the Carter guide or cool blocks is the way to go...don't think you can get cool blocks for bigger saws (can't for my G0513 17") and I think the Carter guide is only for thin blades? Changing blades AND guides would be a bummer.

How about that big saw and a used 14" set up permanently with a 1/8" blade and cool blocks? I know two band saws seems like a nutty idea but the more I use my big saw the more I wish I also had a little one, even a 10", as well...

[Wayne Cannon]

For my 18" Jet, I had to replace the ENTIRE guide assembly with a new bracket that provided compatibility with most of the Carter guides. There was only a very limited set of Carter guides that worked directly (i.e., with the original guide assembly).

[Brian Kent]

John, if you were about to get your first bandsaw (like I am) would you get the 17" grizzly (like I plan to) or the 14" for smaller cuts first?

[Chris Barnett]

My Starrett indicates the hex shape is .672-.675 inches give or take, so guess that makes the hole larger than .5-inches, if hex holes follow the same rules as round ones :D. Since the allen screws are all metric, would guess the hex shape is metric also, and slightly over 17 mm. (between 17.069 and 17.145 mm). The English fractional measurement would be between 43/64ths [.671875] and 11/16ths [.6875]....very close to 43/64ths! Next time I remove the blade, will measure the hole size to complete this exercise in absurdium :D. My metric linear calipers show the measurement as 17.1 mm for what its worth. But they are made of plastic and subject to more inaccuracies than the Starrett. Winter is long, shop is cold and I've got cabin fever.

[Jeremy Leasure]

Yeesh, and here I was hoping for an answer like "1/2 inch". If I'm looking at the Carter Stabilizers correctly, they only have the one hex shaped, and it's half inch. Maybe I'll be forced to get a saw based on aftermarket guide availability. :eek:

I'd get two saws, but I'd have to spend twice as much. I mean, I need 12" resaw height on both of them, so they both would end up being the same model. Since I'm having to replace everything in my shop on a fairly limited budget I'd have to sacrifice some other necessary tool to get two bandsaws. It's part of the reason I scaled back down from the 636.




My Starrett indicates the hex shape is .672-.675 inches give or take, so guess that makes the hole larger than .5-inches, if hex holes follow the same rules as round ones :D. Since the allen screws are all metric, would guess the hex shape is metric also, and slightly over 17 mm. (between 17.069 and 17.145 mm). The English fractional measurement would be between 43/64ths [.671875] and 11/16ths [.6875]....very close to 43/64ths! Next time I remove the blade, will measure the hole size to complete this excerise in absurdium :D. My metric linear calipers show the measurement as 17.1 mm for what its worth. But they are made of plastic and subject to more inaccuracies than the Starrett. Winter is long, shop is cold and I've got cabin fever.