Clamp time

[Harold Piper]

I have a bunch of oak panels to glue up,but don't have very many clamps. What is the shortest time that I can leave the clamps on before I take them off? I'm using Tight Bond II.

Thanks

Harold

[Mark Engel]

Longer is better, but you can usually remove them after about 30 minutes or so. Leave the panels for a full day before machining further.

[Peter Quadarella]

I don't know from experience, but the manufacturer says 30 minutes to an hour - and then goes on to say they usually recommend at least 45 minutes.

Also, if you suffer from lack of clamps, you could check out bowclamp (there is a subforum for it here, in the manufacturer's section).

[Sean Kinn]

Not sure of your shop situation/temps...but be mindful of the temps suggested on the bottle. Cool weather can affect drying time, and full cure time.

[David Duke]

As Mark said if temperatures are within mfg guidelines and your joinery is good 30-45 minutes in the clamps is fine, just be sure and not do any machining on the panels for at least 8 hours.

[M Toupin]

With temps in the mid 70s, clamp for 30-45 min or so. Light machining after a hour, though I try and wait 2 if I can. Heavy machining in 8 hours or so. Manufacturer times are generally conservative for liability reasons.

Mike

[Bert Johansen]

I recently glued up 8 oak panels for a small chest. Lacking adequate clamps, I resorted to "Bubba Clamps." See photo.

[David DeCristoforo]

"...I resorted to "Bubba Clamps..."

Yes...these are the best...but, my god, the price! 35 grand for four clamps????

YM

[M Toupin]

"...I resorted to "Bubba Clamps..."
Yes...these are the best...but, my god, the price! 35 grand for four clamps????
YM

Not to mention the space they take up! Is it bad to store your clamps in the driveway or do you have to keep the in the shop???:D;):D

[Brian Dormer]

The instructions on Titebond say 30-60 minutes is "good 'nuff". So an hour or so may be adequate for your application. But - when I'm building to last (and I don't have a ton of clamps either) - I will let my glue-ups cook overnight. The last thing I want to do is get in a rush and blow a glue-up because I got impatient. YMMV.

[Joe Chritz]

This seems to come up every month or so.

Last so called scientific test in a wood rag showed that with almost all PVA glues 80%+ strength was achieved in 15-20 minutes. That means that with good glue joints and proper clamp pressure you can remove them in 20 minutes and set them aside to further cure.

When doing panels I look at the clock after the last clamp is tightened, round up to the next 5 and add 20. I write that on the face with a lumber pencil then go back to processing whenever I was doing.

I also try to glue up two panels at once whenever possible. Just leave out the glue between the panels. It doubles the speed.

Joe

[Charles Wiggins]

Depends on heat and humidity, but usually an hour is sufficient, esp. with a porous wood like oak, but if I have the time to wait, I usually like to give it a few hours. Overnight is real good. My best test is if the clamps are just a tiny bit 'looser' than when I first put them on. That lets me know that the glue joints have shrunken together as the moisture in the glue and wood has evaporated.

[Steve Clardy]

70 degrees in shop, I pull clamps off of panels in 20-30 minutes.
Titebond Original

[Peter M. Spirito]

Well as Norm says; "You can never have too many clamps." And I do have a lot of clamps. But I still let everything stay in the clamps overnight. It's just not worth not gettting the best joint I can get. And for the gloat: With some of the Christmas money from Dad I got a pair each of Bessey 60", 50", and 40" clamps and a Jet air filter. Follow this link to a review of the Jet filter at my web site. http://www.peterspirito.com/airfilter.htm

[J. Z. Guest]

Harold, I run into the same thing.

1st - I leave them on for an hour at this time of year, since my garage is only something like 45-50°F

2nd - When I find myself low on clamps, I usually go buy another one or two. Eventually, I'll have enough, even if I can't afford to buy them all at once.

For glue-ups, it's hard to beat pipe clamps for price & versatility.

Another option is to use pocket screw joinery to hold the panel together, and you don't need clamps at all. (except when drilling the holes and driving the screws)

Of course this doesn't work when you need to see both sides of the panel in the end application.

[John Karas]

Harold, I run into the same thing.

1st - I leave them on for an hour at this time of year, since my garage is only something like 45-50°F

2nd - When I find myself low on clamps, I usually go buy another one or two. Eventually, I'll have enough, even if I can't afford to buy them all at once.

For glue-ups, it's hard to beat pipe clamps for price & versatility.

Another option is to use pocket screw joinery to hold the panel together, and you don't need clamps at all. (except when drilling the holes and driving the screws)

Of course this doesn't work when you need to see both sides of the panel in the end application.


Hi Jeremy

Pipe clamps may do the job & is not expensive but is not hard to beat them with other proffesional systems i know they are far more expensive but there is not any comparison. i do have four frontline clamps & never look back also with the frontline clamps you using 30% less clamps to do the same job & flatter panels with stronger joints every time.in future i will try to post some pictures of some panels made by using the frontline clamps.

Check it out for your self.

www.frontlineengineering.com.au (http://www.frontlineengineering.com.au)

John

[frank shic]

the titebond trim glue works very well. i take it out of the clamps in approximately 15 minutes and start machining it right away without problems.

[Peter M. Spirito]

I went to their web site and they look great. The sizes were metric. Can you give us some inch dimensions?
The site did not give any prices either. Can you give us some round numbers on pricing? Thanks for giving us a look at an innovative product. ;)

[Joe Chritz]

I went to their web site and they look great. The sizes were metric. Can you give us some inch dimensions?
The site did not give any prices either. Can you give us some round numbers on pricing? Thanks for giving us a look at an innovative product. ;)

Dive by 25.4 for inches from mm, 2.54 from cm. (36 and 48")

I would be interested in some ballpark $ figures as well.

Joe

[John Karas]

I went to their web site and they look great. The sizes were metric. Can you give us some inch dimensions?
The site did not give any prices either. Can you give us some round numbers on pricing? Thanks for giving us a look at an innovative product. ;)


Hello Peter

I have look to your web site & is very interesting one many thanks.

In regards to the Frontline Clamps i have bought four clamps around 3 months & i have made arount 25 different panels so far, i'm very happy you have to see them to appreciate is a bit expensive but when you consider how good they are, plus you are using 30% less clamps & for what they do is worth every penny. what is different from other clamps this clams has a special mechanise to press the two flat sides of the boards first flat & then brings the boards together. The cost was $360-00 AUD each + GST For the 1220mm ( To do 48" Panels ) & the 920mm $330-00 each +GST (to do 36" panels ) But i had a 10% as promotional offer at the time.

The prices in U.S.D without any discount is arount $300-00 USD each to do 48" Panel & for the 36"$280-00 U.S.D each But if they got a special on it can be cheaper.May be are available in US worth to try .

Regards
John

[John Karas]

Dive by 25.4 for inches from mm, 2.54 from cm. (36 and 48")

I would be interested in some ballpark $ figures as well.

Joe


Hi Joe

for your information i have sent some info to Peter please check it out.
All i can say those Clamps are Brilliant.

Regards
John