Sandpaper question

[Joe Pack]

My sanding needs for pens, keychains, etc. have been met by using a decent 3M paper I bought on a 50% sale at Rockler a couple of years ago, but that has been lightweight stuff, and I can sand by looping the sandpaper under the object while keeping my fingers off the object...no friction burns on my tender little fingers.

Now I'm looking to move on to plates, bowls, etc. that require holding the paper more firmly with my hands, and also sanding more contours. The thin paper I have been using probably won't cut it. I don't know much about sandpaper; I can read the biggest words on the Klingspor page, but they don't mean much to me because I don't have a frame of reference. They could be selling exactly what I need, or they could be selling me a Cadillac to drive in a demolition derby and I wouldn't know the difference. I'm hoping folks here can educate me on what sandpapers I need for bowl work...grit ranges, backing material, etc. Also, do you have a favorite brand? Can you tell me why you prefer one brand over another?

Thanks. I'll look forward to reading and learning.

[Mike Peace]

I bought the KLingspor 20# bargain box of end rolls for turners. I am very pleased with the quality and quantity but I did not get a full range of grits. I got lots of the the equivalent of 100, 266, and 360 grits. So I need to supplement it with some 150 or 180. I guess it is a bit of a crap shoot on what you get.

[ryan kelley]

If your going to get into bigger turnings I suggest that you consider looking into power sanding. CSUSA sells what ever you need. Just my opinion.

[Ben Gastfriend]

I agree, that when I got a power sander, it really eased the pain. I bought a $20 angle drill from Harbor Freight, and got a little sanding attachment that looked like a round disk attached to a metal rod. Then I got some 1/2 foam, glued that to the sanding attachment, got some hook-and-loop loop paper and glued that on to the foam, and some hook-and-loop sandpaper in various grits. Now all I need to do is power sand with 150, then rip the h&l off, pop on some 220, etc.

Good luck.

[robert hainstock]

Actualy Steve schlumpf got me started in the drill and velcro pad method. I use two, astiff foam, for flats, and a soft foam for curves. works good. :D
Bob

[Bernie Weishapl]

I use the angle drill with the sanding pads. I use stiff for flat and soft for bowls. I use the wavey disc's because they don't seem to leave sanding marks. If I am hand sanding I buy the I think 9" X 11" sheets from 80 grit to 400 grit and cut the sheets in 1/4's. Lasts a long time.

[Kevin McPeek]

I like the Klingspor Rolls. I bought the bargain box and got two grits 120 and 150. I won't have to buy that for a few more years. I generally get the 10 meter rolls of 220, 320, 400, and 600 that are 1.5" wide. I also have 2" h&l for the angle drill of the same grits. The stuff from Sanding glove is really nice for those. The Klingspor is nice too. You can cloth weight is how you can tell how heavy the sandpaper (or cloth) is. J weight is a nice thick cloth backing.
Here is my usual-
http://www.woodworkingshop.com/cgi-bin/484ED5C9/mac/qryitems.mac/itemDisplay?qryType=STYLE&itemSt=SR01%2E5X10
The Klingspor Gold is very nice stuff too-
http://www.woodworkingshop.com/cgi-bin/484ED5C9/mac/qryitems.mac/itemDisplay?qryType=STYLE&itemSt=SR001X10G

[Frank Kobilsek]

Joe

You asked for a frame of reference. Let me try to explain sandpaper 'backing' grades. The paper or cloth that the abrasive is glued to is grade 'A' being lightweight paper and as the letters move closer to Z the heavier the backer gets. So common grades you will find are
'A' in cheap hardware store grades (as if there is cheap sandpaper)
'J' might be a Norton or 3M higher end paper.
'P' typical cloth backed

One problem in buying a package at the hardware store or Big box is the paper weight is not labeled on retail packages. So trial and error.

I have good luck with 3M Sandblaster Gold that I can buy at local big box, its probably a J weight. I will stock up when they have thier everything that fits in the paper grocery bag is 15% off sale. For pens, open twists and other this where I need strips of sandpaper I buy Klingspor shop rolls which are cloth backed. For 600 and up I use Finkat which is probably an A weight but cuts wonderfully.

All this said I may be wrong, its just the way I understand it. Somebody correct me and I won't be offended.

Frank

[Richard Madison]

The Norton 3X and the 3M expensive paper (comes in colors now) are both good for manual sanding, definitely cut better and last longer than the cheap stuff. I use a stiff sponge rubber backup pad for manual sanding, but have one end cut off at about 45 degree angle to make it flexible enough for curves. Also power sand with Steve's and Vince's discs. Someone here has their websites.

Edit: Often mix manual and power sanding, depending upon the workpiece, shape, etc.

[Joe Pack]

Thanks, folks. I appreciate your help.

[Rasmus Petersen]

Talking about sandpaper. When powersanding something with a very soft spot, rotten. What kid of foampack do you use ??

And my bit on sandpaper : i use Mirka finnish make. its better and havent got loose rocks of greater size as do many of the cheaper ones.