Sharpening

[Greg Hines, MD]

What are the groups thoughts on motorized sharpening devices, from the Jet and Tormek to the Work Sharp, versus waterstones and jigs?

Doc

[Bob Feeser]

I have the Tormek with the full set of attachments. All told it cost me a little over 800 bucks, and that is the biggest objection; the price. It does a great job. With the water well, it makes it practical to do your sharpening all at the same time.
The real bottom line is that some people consider sharpening a way of communing with the Gods. To me it is a lot of work. Considering that for each 10 minutes of lathe work, some people say, you have to spend 30 minutes sharpening your tools. With the Tormek, you spend 5 minutes instead.
I do not have any experience with the Tormek clones that have come out since then. One attachment I strongly recommend is the planer, jointer knife attachment. Does a great job, and I can resharpen the blades easily instead of replacing them. Saves money over the long run.

[Mike Henderson]

Unless you have an awful lot of sharpening, special sharpening needs, or have multiple people working in your shop, a jig and waterstones are all you need (plus one diamond stone to flatten your waterstones).

When setting up a set of chisels or a new plane, you need to flatten the back and that can only be done well on stones - so you'll need a set of stones anyway.

If money is no object, get both a set of waterstones and one of the powered sharpeners.

Mike

[Ben Cadotte]

I just bought a worksharp 3000 because I caught it on sale. Have not tried it. I was originally going to buy a full set of water stones. If you do the math, even at the $199 price it is less expensive than a good set of stones (not including extra discs, and paper). Now after saying that. I still also ordered a couple good stones (up to 1200). Just not the finer ones that cost a bit more. Will get them a little later. I think it will come to show that both have their place.

And just like Neanderthals and Normites there will always be people to preach one way or the other. I am a fence sitter and watch the action, so I plan to use both systems.

[David DeCristoforo]

"...plus one diamond stone to flatten your waterstones..."

Actually, you don't even need that, just "lap" the waterstones together under a running tap. But, because I have become very lazy, not long ago I bought one of the small Delta power waterstone machines and I am quite pleased at the fine job it does. The stone is a medium grit so you can be quite aggressive if you want to get rid of a lot of metal and still only need a few strokes on a finishing stone...

YM

[Randal Stevenson]

I plan on eventually getting a Tormek type setup (unsure of what one at this time). For now, chisels and planes, I am fine with waterstones. When I get to the point of a lathe, I will get the tool for the ease of sharpening the gouges and such.

Currently I am debating getting a different wheel for my bench grinder (or another grinder), for those old chipped tool rehab. (waiting for a bargain)

[Mike Henderson]

"...plus one diamond stone to flatten your waterstones..."

Actually, you don't even need that, just "lap" the waterstones together under a running tap. But, because I have become very lazy, not long ago I bought one of the small Delta power waterstone machines and I am quite pleased at the fine job it does. The stone is a medium grit so you can be quite aggressive if you want to get rid of a lot of metal and still only need a few strokes on a finishing stone...

YM
That's true, Yoshikuni. But you have to use three stone surfaces and lap them in a certain sequence. If you only use two surfaces, you get two conforming surfaces, but not necesssarily two flat surfaces. If you only use two surfaces, you'll probably wind up with one convex surface and one concave surface. The amount of concave/convex will likely not be great but they most likely will not be truly flat.

Flat is a conforming surface so it's one of the possible outcomes. But given the number of possible outcomes, it's not a likely result.

Mike

[note that even if you only have two stones, you probalby have four surfaces (unless the stones are mounted) so you can do the three surface process even with only two stones.]
[Oops, I was wrong about being able to use two stones. Let's say you label the sides A,B,C,&D, then choose sides ABC to do the flattening. Two of those will be on opposite sides of the same stone and you won't be able to rub those together. If you labeled the sides of one stone as A and B, you won't be able to rub those together. So you do need three stones to do the flattening.]

[Mike Heidrick]

I have the Jet and the jigs for it - It was a great deal at $200 on amazon with the base and cover. Have another $100 in jigs and the diamond truing jig.

I also have teh $99 entry Norton waterston kit.

That and the Sharpening Book by Lee is one heck of a good way to sharpen my tools.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

I like my stones. When I have to take a lot of metal off I use a sander. Then it's off to the stones - all two of them.

[jim mckee]

I use a Grizz G2790 works great.
Also use the Makita water -8"ish dia horizontal rock.
jim

[dan grant]

worksharp 3000, did 13 chisels scary sharp in 3 hrs, do that on a stone, first time i have been able to shave with a 1 1/2 LN chisel, for 200$ it is a deal, i have that much in stones and glass, paper is cheap if you bargain hunt very happy with it dan

[Tom Hamilton]

Greg, though outside the parameters of your question, the "Scary Sharp" method, (various grades of wet/dry sandpaper on a flat surface like a piece of glass or granite) will return a nice edge. This method is a whole lot less expensive than a machine and you can use the wet/dry in finishing also!

A google of "scary sharp" will get you the specifics.

Best regards, Tom, in Houston, with a accordian file full of sandpaper.

[Peter Quadarella]

You know, I just now decided that I'd be willing to buy the WS3000 for $160, but went to Amazon and the sale is over. Oh well, I can wait longer.

Waterstones work, but good ones aren't cheap. The only reason I waited this long on the WS3000 was the 2" limitation and it doesn't seem like it would help much with my carving gouges.

[Greg Cole]

Another vote for stones & paper. I started with a Vertias MKII Honing Jig but pretty much freehand now.
Jointer blades & saw blades are the only things I send out for sharpening.
FWIW, I can put a hell of an edge on a knife these days too....

Greg

[Mike Cutler]

What are the groups thoughts on motorized sharpening devices, from the Jet and Tormek to the Work Sharp, versus waterstones and jigs?

Doc

It seems as if all chisels and plane blades eventually end up on the waterstones as the last step. Pretty easy to start there with the right grit to begin with.
I have a 10" bench grinder, and waterstones from 220 to 8000 grit. It really takes both in my opinion.

Bob's post makes a lot of sense for lathe tools though.

[Duncan Potter]

I'm a beginner but I use the scary sharp method and finish off with waterstone.

When I bough my waterstone at Lie Nielsen, the guy there said that they flatten their waterstones using the basic scary sharp system. A flat plate and 220 grit wet and dry.


My blades set sharp enough for me.

[John Revilla]

Hi Greg,
Waterstones will help you learn how to sharpen your blades. I have Norton, Japanese and Sharpton stones up to 8000 grit, with a Veritas MKII honing guide, sharpening my LN and Veritas planes and chisels is actually fun. I flatten my stones with a 10 inch DMT red and blue diamond stones. As for lathe work, I tried the Wolverine and grinder set up but my Jool tool was easier and faster in obtaining the same keen edge from my gouges. Godspeed.

John Revilla M.D.

[Don Morris]

I'm with Bob Feeser, in 5 mins my chisels and handplanes are done. Only reason I have a Tormek is I promised LOML I'd do her kitchen knifes whenever she wanted. She gave me the OK for the Tormek. I've spent enough time going from 400, 600, 1200, then that second bevel, etc. enough!!! With the Tormek, I can read newspaper through my shavings in 5 minutes, after that "you're milking mice" IMHO. I'd rather spend the time on wwing.

[Augusto Orosco]

I like my stones. When I have to take a lot of metal off I use a sander. Then it's off to the stones - all two of them.
Cliff, which two stones do you use? 200 and 8000? or a diff. combo? I am planning on starting only with two, so I am curious.

[Mike Cutler]

Cliff, which two stones do you use? 200 and 8000? or a diff. combo? I am planning on starting only with two, so I am curious.

Cesar

I have three stones, with 5 grits. I have a combination 800/4000 and a 1200/8000, and I just got a single 220 grit.

The 1200 can be dropped and I can go from the 800 to the 4000, The 8000 is nice, but not absolutely critical. The 220 is for removing a lot of material fairly quick.

I could easily get by with just the 800 and the 4000, in addition to my bench grinder.

Norton, King and a few others make the combination grit stones. Worth looking into. The additional cost isn't that much.
They may not be the highest quality stones out there, but the chisel and plane blades don't know that.;)

[Wilbur Pan]

Unless you have an awful lot of sharpening, special sharpening needs, or have multiple people working in your shop, a jig and waterstones are all you need (plus one diamond stone to flatten your waterstones).

I completely agree with Mike.


I plan on eventually getting a Tormek type setup (unsure of what one at this time). For now, chisels and planes, I am fine with waterstones. When I get to the point of a lathe, I will get the tool for the ease of sharpening the gouges and such.

This is exactly why I bought a Tormek -- for dealing with turning tools. I also use the Tormek to take out big nicks or to change the bevel of chisels or plane blades, but this is a luxury, not a necessity.

[Lori Kleinberg]

I tried the scary sharp method with an angle jig, but could never get a consistent edge. Bought the Worksharp 3000 on sale and it did a wonderful job on my chisels and hand planes and in a short time.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Cliff, which two stones do you use? 200 and 8000? or a diff. combo? I am planning on starting only with two, so I am curious.

I have a medium DMT diamond and a Norton two grit oil stone. I have never felt the need for more.

I've seen several sharpening systems and looked at the various water stones but was never convinced that there was enough to 'em to bother - at least so long as I'm happy.

[Greg Hines, MD]

Well, that is certainly a lot to digest. I have been planning on getting a set of Norton stones and a Mark II Veritas guide, and it sounds like that should do well from what everyone has said. I don't think that I am ready for a Tormek yet, but when the stones fail me, then that will be it, I think.

Has anyone got experience with the Norton Flattening Stones? What grit is that compared to the 220 grit stone?

Thanks to all who contributed.

Doc

[Mike Henderson]

Has anyone got experience with the Norton Flattening Stones? What grit is that compared to the 220 grit stone?

Thanks to all who contributed.

Doc
The flattening stone is about 220 grit. It's pretty useless as a flattening stone because you have to keep it flat. So you need something - a DMT stone, sandpaper on glass, something - to flatten the flattening stone. So rather than flatten the flattening stone and risk it not being flat after a few uses, use whatever you would use to flatten it, to flatten your working stones.

The best use for it is as a very coarse stone to reshape a bevel or fix a really bad ding in a blade.

Mike