blank sizing

[Russ Peters]

My neighbor just cut down an oak tree. I think I can persuade him to give some of it if I help with the cutting/stacking. How long should I cut the blank in relation to the diameter of the piece?
thanks

[Gordon Seto]

If you can't use them up immediately, as long as they are not too heavy for you to carry. Even you seal the ends with sealer, the ends may still check. You will have to trim the end off. Round logs are more likely to crack. Removing the pith will help.

[Bruce Shiverdecker]

I usually cut mine with a length equal to the diameter, when I'm looking to make bowl out of the blank.

If I want tp make a Vase, or taller piece, I make the length 1-1/2 times the diameter.

Bruce

[David Walser]

Russ,

If you're going to turn the wood right away, then size your log sections based on what you're going to turn. For bowls, a length about equal to diameter should leave you with two bowl blanks out of every log section.

If you're going to store the wood for turning later, make each log section as long as your storage area will allow. This does two things: First, it's more flexible. You can always cut a shorter section out of a long log for use as a box blank. It's far more difficult to take a short log and use it for turning a table leg. Second, even with careful storage, you're likely to end up with some checking on the ends of your logs. Extra length allows you to trim the ends back to solid wood.

Good luck!

[Curt Fuller]

As Gordon said, if you don't plan to rough turn the blanks very soon it's better to leave the wood in logs as long as you can handle with the ends sealed. But even if you are going to get right to the wood, I still cut the blanks an inch or two longer than the diameter. Even wood sealed with anchorseal still checks a little and that extra little bit of wood gives you something to trim off if it checks. If you can, it's best (at least for bowl blanks) to cut them, rough turn them to about 1-1.5" thickness, and then go through one of the many processes of getting them dry. Depending on the time of year the wood is cut, the climate and humidity where you live, and the type of wood it's all gonna crack if you don't handle it right. I've had the best luck with wood cut in the late fall or winter, rough turned, soaked in DNA (denatured alcohol) for a couple days, and then bagged in brown paper bags for a month or so. If you skip the DNA then the next best thing is to bag them with the shavings from rough turning the blanks. That seems to control the moisture loss and prevent cracking. But it takes them longer to dry.