Confused about router lifts

[Jim Mims]

Done a ton of reading, still have a ton to go.
But one thing (of many) that confuses me, if you don't use a router lift, how do you adjust the height of the router bit?

I just came from Pat Warner's site where he says,
" The Milwaukee 5625 is the best compromise for the router table and it's a wonderful hand held router. The casting is bolted right to the top; no inserts to complicate the design or frustrate the smooth, uninterrupted passage of the work. The casting acts as a mending plate, right in the center of the slab where it's stiffening is needed."
Well then, how the heck does he adjust the bit height?
Thanks,
Jim

[Matthew Voss]

Take a look at the tool - there is a knob for depth adjustment.

http://patwarner.com/images/selecting4.jpg

[Jim Mims]

Take a look at the tool - there is a knob for depth adjustment.


Ahh, I missed that, thank you! But that's for that particular router.

In another spot on his site, he says,
" The same top with 4 coats of GF tung/poly and wax, a very serviceable finish. I bolted a cast iron lift to the underside, looks trivial, works well, installation takes more than an afternoon."
So, now he's using a lift???

(Please note that I'm not only focusing in on Pat's web site as my reference source, I'm just using it to ask my questions)

Also, does "GF" refer to a brand of tung oil?
Thanks again,
Jim

[Matthew Voss]

I think his recommendation is not to use a plate, lift or no lift.

I'm sure by GF he is referring to General Finishes...

[Jim Mims]

I think his recommendation is not to use a plate, lift or no lift.

I'm sure by GF he is referring to General Finishes...
Excellent. Thanks again Matthew.
- Jim

[Ben Rafael]

I dont know what pat is thinking that it took him an afternoon to install a lift, but I installed my lift in about 10 minutes. After having done it once I could do another one in less than 2 minutes.
It is the woodpecker quiklift.

[Greg Hines, MD]

You do not necessarily have to use a lift, but it does make certain operations easier, such as changing bits above the table, or making fine depth adjustments from above the table. May routers, such as the Triton series, are very easy to adjust the depth of cut from above. I have a PC 890 which is designed to work well in a table. For a plunge router, you can get a Router Raiser for less than $100 that will let you change depth very accurately and repeatably.

Doc

[Jim Becker]

Also, does "GF" refer to a brand of tung oil?


General Finishes...but the product itself has no tung oil in it... ;)

To your original question, without either a 'Lift' or a native or contrived above table adjustment feature, you change bit height the same way you would if you were using the router hand-held...with whatever method the particular machine uses for that function. Every router has slight differences.

[keith ouellette]

I have a router raiser and so far I can't be happier. If you aren't going to do a long run of cuts you don't even have to lock in the height (you still have to do that under the table).

It allows me to raise the router enough to change bits above the table. You might want to go that route if money is a concern. If money is a big problem then just use the routers height adjustments.

[Travis Gauger]

I use a makita 1101 in a jeesem masterlift now. Before that I had the fixed base of the router mounted to my extensions table. I've always used a plate to mount it though. I think that I always used a plate because my extension table is 1 1/2" thick. If I mounted the router base directly to the table I'd never get the bit above the table to use it. The plates I used were 3/8" thick plexiglass. Worked good. The lift is definitely the way to go. I find myself turning to the router now for all sorts of things that I used to use other tools to do because it was cumbersome on the router pre-lift. Set up is a breeze with above table controls.

[Ben Cadotte]

Done a ton of reading, still have a ton to go.
But one thing (of many) that confuses me, if you don't use a router lift, how do you adjust the height of the router bit?

I just came from Pat Warner's site where he says,
" The Milwaukee 5625 is the best compromise for the router table and it's a wonderful hand held router. The casting is bolted right to the top; no inserts to complicate the design or frustrate the smooth, uninterrupted passage of the work. The casting acts as a mending plate, right in the center of the slab where it's stiffening is needed."
Well then, how the heck does he adjust the bit height?
Thanks,
Jim

The Milwaukee 5625 includes an above the table height adjustment wrench! Don't have to use the knob on the top of the router when table mounted. Basically a router lift is built in on the router. You can adjust the bit height above the table like you would a router lift. You still have to unlock it and lock it after adjusting though. Also it has a slightly larger base than some others. Again probably his mentioning of just bolting it straight to the table top, no heavy plates needed.

I just ordered one due to this and its price $215 shipped from Amazon on sale. They also have a good warranty.