Help - many???

[Brian Tillinghast]

I've been working(?) on this hutch for 30+ years. Mostly, it sat in the corner of my basement shop. I'm trying to redo the shop so, it needs to go in the dining room, where I told LOML it would be 25 years ago.
Anyway, this was a built-in (1920?) I took out of a parsonage in the mid 70"s. It is White Oak w/4 leaded doors. The problem is when I removed it being a stupid teen, I didn't do much right. The hutch needs a new face frame,top, bottom shelf, base, etc. I, in my ignorance, early on used refinisher on some parts and sanded bare on others. Where I've used the refinsher there seems to be a light film of varnish?- dna doesn't work so I'm guessing not shellac. Also, the back, top and bottom will be Red Oak ply- darker than existing wood.The face frame, top molding, base w/ molding will be new white oak.
Finally, my questions-
should I spray (cheap hvlp) a seal coat first to lock in the refinisher?
apply a waterbased dye (spray or hand)?
spray trans-tint (dark vintage maple) as a dye to blend all the different shades ?
or use the TT as a toner?
All steps to be followed with several coats of Zinsser Seal Coat (reg. dewaxed)
Sorry ,this is so long-at least it didn't take 30 yrs. Any and all help and ideas are greatly appreciated. Thanks

[Jim Becker]

Mixing red oak with white is going to greatly complicate your project, Brian. A lot. They are different colors and have different grain patterns. They are essentially different species. You can buy sheet goods in white oak veneer...just not at the 'borg and not inexpensively.

It's hard to visualize everything however, to help you know what steps to take. That said, the "refinisher" was likely some form of wiping varnish rather than anything magic. Since you're adding new wood, you may want to consider stripping everything else and doing any necessary bleaching, etc., to get things consistant color before you start going back the other way... And test everything on scrap first!

[Brian Tillinghast]

Thanks Jim, yeah, I'm all to aware of the differences between red and white oak. I was hoping to dye(tone) the white solid and ply to sort of match (an overall medium mission). SWMBO would NEVER go for $350+ for 3/4 WO (need 3 full sheets) and truthfully, I can't justify it for the back and top. I've never used a dye or toner.
This monster is approx. 7'hx8'wx16"d. It's shaped like
I H I. The I's being the sides and the H the center with 2 leaded doors on top and 8 drawers under. The 2 full heighth leaded doors go on either side of the H and are hinged on the I. The ply would tie the I's to the H (top and bottom full width). Sorry to be so long winded, but I really want to redo my little shop 12x23 and this is always in the way.

[Jim Becker]

Why not do the back painted poplar or maple ply and use solid stock for the top? Just fasten the latter on with wood movement in mind. No red oak plywood then and you can have more flexiblity with your finishing.