Brett Guard: worth the price?

[Tim Allaire]

Just as I just finally adjusted the blade on my newly acquired Proshop, the LOML approached me and asked about the blade guard (of course it is hanging on the wall). She had a valid question--is that the safest protection against loss of digits or worse? I told her I did not know. Since a new SawStop is out of the question, I looked at a couple of other options. Brett-Guard was one of the options, so I was wondering what people thought about this device? It seems awfully steep (the HTC Brett Guard) for a guard. Anyone have some pointers?

Tim

[Glen Blanchard]

Well, I can't comment on the Brett as I have had no experience with it (I have the Excalibur overhead guard) but my advice (until you acquire an after-market guard) is to put the stock guard back on that saw.

[Teresa Jones]

I have this model Brett Guard and it works very well for my needs.

http://www.amazon.com/HTC-10A-LP-Brett-Guard-Table-Guard/dp/B0001LQW8M/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1203611572&sr=1-2

TJ

[Mike Spanbauer]

The Brett Guard is a very good guard, but it doesn't provide for any dust collection abilities.

some options include:
Excalibur *now owned by General International
Delta
PSI (penn state industries)
Lee Styron's Shark Guard (a very good value)

Just depends on your price sensitivity and desires.

I would highly recommend getting dust collection abilities though if you'll be working with sheet goods, particularly man-made ones (OSB, MDF, Particle board / Melamine, etc)

mike

[Brian MacDonald]

I bought the overarm Brett Guard about 5 years ago. It's expensive, but comparing it to an emergency room trip(DAMHIKT).....worth every penny.

FYI....the splitter supplied with it is just a piece of 1/8 plate and worth using only until you find a replacement. None of the aftermarket splitters that I've seen, with the exception of the Micro-Jig, will work with the Brett because of the plexiglass shield.

[Bob Wingard]

If you read carefully .. almost all of the blade guards other than the Brett claim to only be "blade covers". The Brett-Guard is about the only true aftermarket guard on the market. They DO have a model with dust collection capability, but I fabricated a cover of my own from Lexan and will incorporate my own dust pickup, using the basic Brett overarm assembly/adjustment on which to mount it.

Used correctly, it WILL prevent your fingers from getting near the blade, while providing a good view of the blade path.

[Ed Falis]

The Brett Guard is a very good guard, but it doesn't provide for any dust collection abilities.
...

That's not accurate. The overhead version can be bought with a 2 or 2-1/2" dust port on top - I forget which, but I have one.

The guard is great. Had it since 2002 - the overhead version. I can even use it with dado cuts if I use the right kind of removable splitter (the one from microjig and a zero clearance insert). The times I lift it are when I'm cutting something edge down (eg a rabbet), or thin strips where there's insufficient space between the fence and the guard, and there's not enough cutoff to extend beyond the guard on the left. For those cases, I use a pair of appropriately adjusted GRR-Rippers. SawStop would be a great enhancement, but I can't afford it either.

[Mike Spanbauer]

Ah, sorry I was referring to the linked gaurd. You are correct of course that the Brett Guard offers 2 models, one of which provides the dust port.

Noted.

mike

[Ed Falis]

Ah, I misunderstood you, too. Now it's all clear.

[Robert Conner]

I used the Brett Guard in a School enviornment for 25 years I had a hate love relationship with it.
I believe it is one of the safest and best true guards on the market. I don't know an exact number of accidents it prevented, but we (myself and the other shop teacher) had no student injuries on our Unisaw in that time period.
The only reason I hated it, was moving it from right to left to rear. Fortunately that was done rarely. Usually one only has to raise or lower, move in our out.
I purchased one for myself from Amazon. I was lucky to get the August '07 sale price of about $100. shipped, wait a bit it might come up again. You might even find a used one around, 90%+ of Schools use them since they are UL Approved and work. They are really Heavy Duty 1/2" Lexan similar to bank teller protection screens.
Robert

[Rod Sheridan]

To quote Glen,

"Well, I can't comment on the Brett as I have had no experience with it (I have the Excalibur overhead guard) but my advice (until you acquire an after-market guard) is to put the stock guard back on that saw."
__________________

Like Glen, I have the Excalibur overarm guard on my saw, and am very pleased with it.

It has good dust collection, good visibility, and is easy to move when changing blades.

I also have the Merlin removable splitter, which uses a seat belt type latch to maount in the saw. Remove the throat plate, push the latch, pull the splitter up and forward to remove.

The Excalibur did save me once, I punched it with my right hand, the guard prevented me from contacting the blade. Made the $400 price look cheap.......Rod.

P.S. Please put the stock guard back on until you purchase something else. No point putting your family through an accident.

[CPeter James]

I have the Exactor and use it all the time. I find that the overarm style is convenient and it can get over 50" between the support and blade.

http://home.metrocast.net/~cpjvkj/ts.jpg

CPeter

[Don Morris]

My experience with the early version (side attachment only) of the Brett guard was not overly positive. I believe I felt it had limited flexability in type of cuts, i.e. wide sheet cuts...real thin cuts... requiring removing it which was a pain. Overarm versions with dust collection look much more versatile and if my ceiling wasn't so low, I'd consider them. It finally became such a nusuance that I stopped using it in favor of other safety devices. I gave it to the guy who bought my contractor saw when I upgraded to my 1023SL. So bottom line, the early version side mount Brett guard just didn't cut it in my experience with it. There are other saftely systems that are just as effective/efficient and/or less costly. I have no experience with newer versions.

[Ed Falis]

HI Don,

Regarding the height of the overarm version, when mine is flipped up, I don't think it's even as tall as I am (5' 10"). Well, maybe an inch or two more - I'd have to go downstairs to check. The mounting is an arm that attaches to the back of the saw, and then sits maybe 2 to 2-1/2 feet above the table surface in line with the back of the saw. The boom can be retracted so it's out of the way of the blade path/ fence for taller work without the guard.

- Ed

[Tim Allaire]

Thanks for all the help! I am still not sure about it. It seems like a solid investment, but I am not sure if it is really worth $500 (that is almost what I paid for the saw in the first place). I guess the Excalibur is the other option?

Tim

[glenn bradley]

You've obviously picked up on the recurring theme here. If the original guard is a pain, tough. Use it till you get something else. Do NOT hang it on the wall. Very few of us get a second chance or an "I shoulda" out of this situation. Use a guard.

I have the PSI overarm and really like the way it swings out of the way so easily. I do wish it had 4" hose all the way to the guard instead of reducing to 2-1/2". Other than that I like it and the price is right.

[Chris Padilla]

I'd like a ceiling mount for my setup so I'm digging into that right now.