Lurker peering thru the door with a rail and stile question? (Long)

[Chris Wilson]

Hello All,

I have been lurking and learning and finally want to introduce myself and ask a question. It seems that I have been woodworking my entire life in one capacity or another. Like many in my family I was introduced to lumber at the cabin where my grandfather kept us busy chopping firewood, stacking kindling, and moving a stack of log cabin siding. My cousin's and I still laugh about moving that stack every summer. The addition to the cabin taught me the basics of rough construction and the need for levels. A marble released in the NE corner could take 5-10 minutes to come to a stop in the middle of the room. I have slowly been learning cabinetry and finish carpentry as needed to improve my house. Which brings me to the question about raised panel doors. My beatiful bride wants the cabinetry in our '60's vintage rambler updated with new drawer boxes and doors. Not a problem I reassure her, I can turn out a few raised panel doors using a matched rail and stile router bit set. Not so fast says she. Flat panel shaker style doors with 1/4 rift sawn oak plywood are the goal. So my question is can I use a matched tounge and groove router bit set to make these doors? My concern is that this set only makes a 1/2 inch tenon on the rail and that this joint will not be strong enough. Standard rail and stile sets make a 5/8 inch tenon, how important is that extra 1/8 inch? Bear in mind that I'm trying to avoid haunched tenons at the moment. So that's my quickie introduction and dillema. Thanks for the help in advance-Chris

[Tyler Howell]

I guess I can welcome you Chris. You've been wading in the Creek longer than I have. There are the doers, and then those of us that talk about it:o.
Nice to make your acqauaintance. Maybe we should think about a Twin Cities get together like those Southern Creekers have.;)

[Mark Bachler]

I guess I can welcome you Chris. You've been wading in the Creek longer than I have. There are the doers, and then those of us that talk about it:o.
Nice to make your acqauaintance. Maybe we should think about a Twin Cities get together like those Southern Creekers have.;)


Maybe a get together when the wood show's there in April.

[Ed Falis]

Chris,

I wouldn't expect any problem using 1/2" tenons. I recently did a couple of doors for a bathroom cabinet (12" x 32" x 1/2", so a bit on the light side) with 1/4" deep tongues and tenons. No problem with strength from what I can see.

Try one with some scrap and see what you think.

- Ed

[Lars Thomas]

To make a shaker style door (no profile on the rail/stile), you could either use the 1/2" matched set that it sounds like you have, or you could just make 1/4" T&G with your table saw (which is what I would do). If you elect to take the 1/2" route you will need to build up the edge of your door panels - or you could double them up to, I suppose - might look nice too.

[Michael Ballent]

Have you considered using Bead Lock for the mortises. Uses a drill and their stock to create "loose" tennons. It's very strong and could be cheaper than buy the router bits (in case you do not own the set)

-Michael

[Greg Heppeard]

You can use the tongue and groove bits...I would also like to propose an option, use reverse panels instead of 1/4 plywood...IMHO it looks better and gives you a more solid sound when it closes.

[Todd Burch]

Welcome Chris!

I use matching rail and stile bits that have a 3/8" overlap, and I could roll one down the street and it would not come apart. I actually dropped a large birch panel (while delivering a cabinet...) in Jan. 2003. The wood broke, not the joint.

I make my Shaker style door parts on the tablesaw. Quick and simple. For my shop cabinets, I created a bridle joint (open mortise and tenon) with 3½" wide rails and stiles. LOTS of glue surface.

Todd

[steve cooper]

also a lurker- and rank beginner (carpenter with no cabinet woodworking experience) im attempting to make shaker style doors and frustrated with chip out. looking for advice on what may be the best techniques. ive tried two techniques;1.) 1/4 inch router bit and 2.)1/4 inch dato set up for table saw. both work great when grooving the -with the grain- stiles.
my problem is with the tongue for the rail cut. i bought a sears brand t&g bit with 1/4 inch shaft for my craftsman router thinking what could be easier! but my inexperience using routers quickly became apparent. when trying to run the end of the rail thru, two bad things happened, first the stock would 'dip' into the opening between the fence (using 3/4 x 1 3/4 inch wide stock)- second- chip out!- (i was testing with good quality pine scrap- eventually want to use vg d.f.) i thought if i use wider stock (2 1/2 inch perhaps- the end of the stock would bridge the opening preventing the dip problem- but i still have the chip out thing. (i tried pre-kerfing the stock on the table saw 1/8 inch deep before running thru router table- helped- but no cigar. any ideas- advice would be great.

[Roger Fitzsimonds]

Steve , Have you tried using a backer board. Clamp some scrap on the back side of the rail and then route/dado the rail the backer board should eliminate the chipout on the rail and you don't care if the backer board ships.

good luck
Roger

[steve cooper]

thanks roger, i tried it... GREAT!! -steve