Pantry pull out shelves/bins

[Andrew Mason]

Building a kitchen pantry, planning 5 pull out drawers on full extension slides (KV8400's) that will be 20x18x4. I'd like to use oak for the front of the drawer, although not as an additional front... meaning I'd like it to be the front of the drawer box. The sides ,back and bottom would be either 1/2 or 3/4 BB ply. So, 2 questions,

1. To join the plywood sides to the oak front, ok to use a rabbit/dado joint(maybe called a locking rabbit joint)? this being the more complicated way than just rabbits on the front and back pieces of the drawer.

2. Any problem using a 1/2 BB ply bottom rabbit'd or dado'd into the box, secure all the way around, either glue and/or pinn'd? Worried about locking it all down with a piece of hardwood attached(paranoid about wood movement due to lack of experience:D).

... or... can anyone show me a decent looking all plywood box for inspiration?? Not trying to get the "ikea" look.. just strong and clean in appearance.

Thanks,
Andrew

[keith ouellette]

Here is one I did. I used a dado for the 1/2 bottom but only butt joints and brads (and glue) for the sides which are also 1/2". I edge banded the top with some clear white hard maple and with a clear coat of poly it almost looked like the same wood. They are very sturdy and look rather nice seeing they are just birch plywood.

[Paul Girouard]

!/2" Euro ply, 1/2" draw bottoms.

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/Nov193.jpg



I dado mine in and hot glue the 3 side to the bottom. I cut the back down so I can slide the bottom in , square the draw box , screw the bottom to that cut down back and hot glue the box while it's square.

I pre -finish the bottom and draw box before I slip the bottom in.

[Greg Hines, MD]

The cadillac of your question would be half blind dovetails, though your locking rabbet would work just fine. Another choice that would be a bit stronger would be sliding dovetail joints in the front to the sides. As to the problem of joining the bottom (plywood) to the front (solid wood) if you have a rabbet in the drawer front, and just glue it in the middle of it, it should not lock the front from seasonal movements.

Alternately, this problem is generally solved by any of these methods and a plywood front for the box, with an applied drawer front to overlay the face frame.

Doc

[Dave Falkenstein]

Can you use a drawer lock bit in a router table?

http://www.holbren.com/product.php?productid=347&cat=0&page=1

[glenn bradley]

I'm with Dave. Except for my first set, all my pullouts use a drawer lock joint made on the router table. I use 1/2" bb ply for sides and back, 1/4" bb ply for bottoms (captured all the way around in a dado) and 3/4" for fronts of whatever wood is appropriate. To avoid false fronts, your front joint could be as shown in Dave's link:

http://www.holbren.com/images/P/3347bit.jpg

I don't go to 1/2" for bottoms till the width gets around 20" or larger. I have 1/4" bottoms in pullouts 22" deep x 18" wide that have been used daily, loaded with canned goods and all is well.

[Andrew Mason]

Paul, my wife got a glance of your pantry over my shoulder and thats what I'm doing now. That's what I meant by a clean look from plywood alone.

All the other suggestions helped too, definitely need one of those drawer lock bits for some upcoming shop drawers.

Thanks everyone for your responses, now I just have get started!

[Paul Girouard]

Paul, my wife got a glance of your pantry over my shoulder and thats what I'm doing now. That's what I meant by a clean look from plywood alone.

All the other suggestions helped too, definitely need one of those drawer lock bits for some upcoming shop drawers.

Thanks everyone for your responses, now I just have get started!


Glad I could help :cool:

Good luck . :)

[Joe Chritz]

The drawer lock or lock miter joint is a good drawer joint and a bunch of my shop drawers are built with it out of 1/2 BB ply. They are big drawers too.

I have found that I don't save much time if any on a typical project over 1/2 blind dovetails so that is my standard choice now. If I had 50 drawers to do at once it would save a substantial amount of time in cutting.

I don't glue bottoms in at all. Theoretically it could be removed if damaged somehow. Fit all four pieces with the back cut short (to the top of the dado) then slide in the bottom. A couple staples into the back from below and maybe one on each side from the bottom.

Joe

[Gary Ratajczak]

Hello all

I have some cabinets and drawers to build soon as well. I like the look that Keith had doing edge banding on the drawers. For others that have used BB plywood, did you edge band as well, or leave the plys showing?

I have a small cabinet / pantry to do for our dining room. As I want it to look a little more 'furniture" like, I was planning on doing maple drawer boxes. I would rather use the BB plywood, and the edge banding has got me thinking now.

Any input appreciated.

Gary R

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Gary, I have both edge banded with 6mm thick solid stock, or gently rounded over the plywood edge by hand sanding.

When I edge band, I apply it to the plywood before cutting to final size.

Regards, Rod.

[Gary Ratajczak]

It makes sense to apply prior to final sizing. I think that's the trick I was looking for - SMC comes through again!!

Thanks

[Rod Sheridan]

You're welcome Gary.

Where is Broadalbin? You may not be too far from Toronto.......Rod.

[tim harris]

Paul, that is a great cabinet!! What did you use on the pull out table for sliding and to stop it from coming out?

Thanks to everyone in this thread for the pics and the ideas. It solved a concern of mine on a bath vanity with side showing ply layers!!:D

[Peter Quinn]

I don't think there is a wood movement issue with drawer bottoms. The drawer sides are going to shrink/swell over their width which is unaffected by the drawer bottom. Wood changes very little in thickness and almost negligably in length once dried. Glued or not the plywood bottoms represent little danger. A solid wood bottom panel would be a different issue.

The bigger issue in my mind would be the plywood sides glued into the solid wood front, as these pieces will be bound together and tend to move at different rates. Frankly over 3" on a pantry drawer it may not be significant but I wouldn't use dissimilar materials for drawer sides on high end projects.

[Gary Ratajczak]

You're welcome Gary.

Where is Broadalbin? You may not be too far from Toronto.......Rod.
Rod:
I am about six hours from Toronto - 30 minutes back west of Albany NY

GR

You have a big show coming up soon I think in Toronto.

Any idea how many exhibitors to the Home Woodworking Show? It only states "100's" on teh website, but gives no list. I might consider driving up if it's worth it.

Thanks

GR

[Paul Girouard]

Paul, that is a great cabinet!! What did you use on the pull out table for sliding and to stop it from coming out?




The folks I built it for really like it, she told me everything "'works" just like, "even better than " , she had thought it would .

The pull out folding table sits on a shelf that I P.Lam'ed the top off the stretchers above run the inside perimeter of the cabinet and prevent it from tipping / drooping down.

The leading edge is R Oak continuous door / draw pull inverted to provide a built in pull and flat table surface.

[Rod Sheridan]

Thanks for the reply Gary, I was imagining that were in the Finger lakes or Rochester area.

I hate to downplay a woodworking show, however the one at the end of February isn't a true woodworking show, it's more of a home improvement show.

I attended for a few years, then stopped going because there won't be much of the high end machinery if any, and the seminars on woodworking are a pay per seminar affair.

The last seminar I attended explained why you need a jointer and a planer and featured Arts and Crafts furniture assembled mostly with pocket screws.

To say that I was underwhelmed, would be an under statement.

Regards, Rod.

P.S. They do have a seminar by Mag Ruffman, she's an actor/general contractor and her enthusiasm is infectious, if I were to attend, her seminar would be a must.

[Gary Ratajczak]

Thanks for the reply Gary, I was imagining that were in the Finger lakes or Rochester area.

I hate to downplay a woodworking show, however the one at the end of February isn't a true woodworking show, it's more of a home improvement show.

I attended for a few years, then stopped going because there won't be much of the high end machinery if any, and the seminars on woodworking are a pay per seminar affair.

The last seminar I attended explained why you need a jointer and a planer and featured Arts and Crafts furniture assembled mostly with pocket screws.

To say that I was underwhelmed, would be an under statement.

Regards, Rod.

P.S. They do have a seminar by Mag Ruffman, she's an actor/general contractor and her enthusiasm is infectious, if I were to attend, her seminar would be a must.
Thanks Rod - I am always leary when they claim "100's" of exhibitors. I'll save the 6 hour drive, and stop at my local Lowes.......

[Joe Chritz]

Hello all

I have some cabinets and drawers to build soon as well. I like the look that Keith had doing edge banding on the drawers. For others that have used BB plywood, did you edge band as well, or leave the plys showing?

I have a small cabinet / pantry to do for our dining room. As I want it to look a little more 'furniture" like, I was planning on doing maple drawer boxes. I would rather use the BB plywood, and the edge banding has got me thinking now.

Any input appreciated.

Gary R

I thought I had picture of some finished but I couldn't find it. I'll snap a shot and post it tonight. 1/2 blind dovetail, rounded over top, 1/2" BB plywood.

Solid wood looks better to me and with the cost of BB going up it is more attractive then before. Especially if I can get some 5/4 poplar to resaw.

Joe