Attaching drawer fronts - NYW jig?

[Jim Mackell]

Last week I caught a rerun (probably rerun, might be new) of NYW and saw Norm attaching some drawer fronts with a nifty jig. He used a Forstner bit on the backside of the fronts, drilled his holes, put in a plastic puck with a marking pin to mark the proper drilling location on the drawer carcase, drilled his holes and then removed the plastic puck. The puck was replaced with an insert that has a threaded center to receive the machine screw used to hold the carcase and front together.

Does anyone know the name of the jig and the supplier? My google fu skills have turned up nothing. I have some large fronts for some pan storage drawers that would be absolutely perfect for this.

[Roger Ronas]

Blum "Drawer front adjusters"
Not sure if that's the brand he used but they are who has them. I use them all the time.
If you need a link I'll try to post one if you can't find them.

HTH
Roger

[frank shic]

you are probably referring to the blum drawer front adjusters. i've yet to try them but they look like a slightly more complicated alternative to the double-sided tape method.

[Roger Ronas]

Blum "drawer front adjusters."
Uses a 20mm bit, alignment pucks and the plastic pucks. No jig to locate on fronts, you put where you want.

HTH
Roger

[Roger Ronas]

Sorry for the double posting. Site wasn't accepting and then they both showed up.

As a note, you install pucks and tighten the screws mildly, then you can shift the front to get perfect alignment then put in the permanent mounting screws.
Hope that explains better.

Roger

[Terry Bigelow]

I have my own method that is "jig-free"(also $$ free). I just drive my drawer front screws from inside the drawer box so they are slightly poking through the drawer box. Then hold up the drawer front in position and push it (couple of firm taps will do)into the screw tips. Usually they bite enough that you can pull the drawer out without moving the front, but even if not simply realign the holes and drive the screws home! Way less time and free to boot! I've tried the jigs and we used to measure but this is the easiest way and on the job makes the seemingly mountain of fronts a much quicker job.

[Rod Sheridan]

I use either Frank or Terry's method, simple, inexpensive and accurate.

Regards, Rod.

[Steve Milito]

You can also use double sided tape, adjusting the drawer front until it's correct. Then use a small clamp or two to hold it firm, drill pilots, then screws.

[Jim Mackell]

Thanks for all the replies. The ones I saw were made by Blum. Found a source on the web and ordered some.

I know that you pro's use the double sided tape. I'm not at that stage and want all the adjustment wiggle room I can get. I'll give them a try and let you know how it works.

For anyone else interested, the marking template is Blum part # 65.2950.10 while the adjusters themselves are Blum part # 295.1000

Believe it or not the best price I could find on the web was from A&H Turf Specialties out of Montana.

[Joe Chritz]

Am I the only one was screws through the handle mounting hole or holes with drywall screws then attaches the front?

It has proven to be fast and accurate. I generally set a spacer on top of the door and set the drawer on that. Align left to right and drive two screws through the predrilled holes.

I suppose that wouldn't work if you had do drawer pull but it does work when there is one.

Joe