Kreg Master Pocket Screw Kit

[Charles Wilson]

I have saved up some money and wanted to buy the kit.

Can anyone recommend if the screw kit is a good buy? If not, I am going to be doing a small children's stool and some face frames for cabinets and such. Could you recommend screws, bits, stops, etc. for these for these applications?

Thanks,
Chuck

[Gary Ratajczak]

Charles
I'm just down the road near Amsterdam!

If you are doing 3/4" stock, the 1-1/4" screw is standard. The fine thread is for harder woods, and the coarse for softer woods.

I prefer the washer head screws for projects in pine - less pull in from the screw.

I would recommend just purchasing a box of 1000 - depending on what you will be working on.

I use the coarse thread in both hard and soft woods. I have never had any pullouts or splits, and when the structure is assembled, there are generally additional joints that help hold things together.

If you find yourself hooked on pocket construction, and just can't stop building - look at Custom Service Hardware.

http://www.cshardware.com/iwwidb.pvx?;multi_item_submit

Lowest $$ I have found.

GR

[Gary Ratajczak]

I would recommend the $139.00 kit - It has everything you need, including the proper drill bit, stops and screw bits.

Nothing else needed.

http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-K3MS-Master-Pocket-System/dp/B0009VD03Y

Free shipping from Amazon.

GR

(I have no affiliation with Kreg, other than using their product, and drilling 100's of pocket holes!!!)

[Charles Wilson]

Broadalbin-Perth?

I used to vacation with a family friend at Lake Sacandaga (sp?) when I was a kid. There was an old bar/restaurant called the "Tumble Inn" near where they were.

Thanks for the info.

Chuck

[Scott Loven]

I sell kreg items just to let you know upfront. Kreg has a screw kit with 675 (The SK02 Pocket Screw Kit includes 675 screws: (150) SPS-F1, (150) SPS-C1, (150) SML-F125, (150) SML-C125, and (75) SML-C250W) of their most purchased screws which I assume you have in mind. The the recommended screw for 3/4 material is 1.25 inches in length, fine threaded (SML-F125) for hard woods, course threaded (SML-C125) for soft woods. The correct screw length depends on the width of the material that you are going to put the pocket hole in. 1 inch for 1/2 inch material, 2.5 inch for 2 inch material. The kit is a good deal if you are going to use all of the items in the kit. If all you use is 3/4 material the better deal would be to buy boxes of 500 or 1000.
Scott

[Peter Quinn]

The Kreg pocket hole screws are excellent. I hear the screws from McFealy's are good too. Beware of cheap chinese knock offs--they often break!

I skipped the screw assortment and buy boxes of the sizes I need as I need them. They offer convenient boxes from 100-1000 pieces each. Kreg's web site (and the literature in the kit) gives you a chart showing which length screws are needed to join each thickness of material. They also offer two head types (washer head or pan head) and three thread types, fine, course and Hi-Lo. Screw length and thread type is determined by the thickness of the 'receiving' material.

Fine screws are used when the receiving material is hardwood. Course screws are used when the receiving material is soft wood or plywood. Hi-lo is a general purpose thread that could work in either case and in composite materials. The washer head gives the most pull through resistance, the pan-head is smaller and generally used to join 5/8" or 1/2" material (drawers) where a washer head would remain proud of the surface after tightening.

Browse the Kreg web site for specific screw length requirements and lots of handy tips. The video's I got with the master kit were very informative too. Use test pieces until you are familiar with all aspects of this jig, there is a learning curve. Biggest problems I encountered were overdriving the screws and work piece misalignment due to insufficient clamping pressure.

[keith ouellette]

I love the kreg pocket kit I bought. I even have used it to put nailers in between wall studs so I could hang some cabinets. Its a great set up.

[glenn bradley]

Everyone is different. I have found that I always clamp the jig to the work as opposed to vice versa. Folks who have the bench mounted clamp system like the "Master" should chime in because they will speak from their experience.

It seems if you are doing lots of small pieces like face frame components, the master would be the way to go. For general versatility, something like the R-3 suits me better. YMMV.

P.s. I have found both the Kreg and McFeely's screws to be excellent. DO NOT use cheap-o's. You will not like it.

[Peter Quinn]

Ditto Kieth..I thought I was the only one using it for framing:p:p:p

Its perfect for attaching blocking in tight/sensitive areas...I used it when remodling my bathroom...I built an outdoor shower stall with it...helped a friend make 4500sf of fabric covered ladder frames for the walls in a pro recording studio...sometimes I even use it for cabinets!:cool::cool::cool:

[Peter Quadarella]

I'd receommend getting the assortment. I'm always finding uses for the pocket screws that are odd and it's great to have the variety available.

It's also good to buy a big box of 1 1/4" if you're going to use it on a specific project.

[Don Orr]

Charles,

If you are not in a big hurry, the NWA is having our annual Woodworking show the first weekend of April. Kreg reps are usually there to answer questions and often have show specials.

More info at;
www.nwawoodworkingshow.org (http://www.nwawoodworkingshow.org)

Hey Gary, I'm just southeast of you in the Schenectdy area. Going to the Show ?

[Don L Johnson]

There's been a previous thread on this; one of the responses I remember is that the much cheaper version at Home Depot worked well. You might want to do a search for that thread.

[Prashun Patel]

I'd get the $139 kit.
You'll grow into the kit. Having a desktop jig is great. The face clamp is great too. Having a case for the kit is good too. There's a lot of pieces to otherwise keep track of.

I wouldn't get the screw kit, though. Think about what you'll be joining most and just order bulk in those sizes.

I mostly use PS's for 3/4 plywood and edge banding, so getting 500x1 1/4 fine threads + 500x 1 1/14 coarse threads (washer head) works for me well. With the kit, you'll invariably run out of the ones you need and be left with excess of the ones you don't.

There are a few sellers on EBAY that'll sell ps's in specific sizes in bulk. You can 'make your own' kit by paying a flat rate for say 1000 screws and mixing and matching per yr needs.

[Gary Ratajczak]

Yup - will be there.

Actually, I have been the one doing the lecture session on Pocket hole joinery the last few years. (No affiliation with Kreg - happy user only - NWA contributor).

Not doing this year - I think they were most likely looking for some new programs.

I'll say Hello at the show - I remember seeing you at the lath last year.

GR


P.S. I have not had a single broken screw from the CSH stock I have (Case of 8000). Not sure where there are other sources for screws? I have built a number of face frames and cabinets in Red Oak with those screws.

I would be interested to know, so I can recommend users away from that source. (e-mail me if you wish)

[frank shic]

i had the prior version of the kit and found that i hardly ever changed the 3/4" thickness setting so i sold it and bought an earlier aluminum kreg jig that feels much more solid off . CSH or amazon.com are the best sources for the 1 1/4" coarse pocket hole screws as previously mentioned.

[Pat Snyder]

I agree with Gary Ratajczak I bought the same kit for about $140.00 works great.

[Joe Chritz]

I have used the Kreg brand screws, the screws from Custom Service Hardware and Quick screw from Woodworkers supply. I haven't noticed a big difference in performance in any of them. That being they all worked well and I don't think I have ever broken one.

Coarse thread is fine but for face frames I had encountered some splits when near the ends of the stiles. I usually add 1K whenever I make an order to a place that has them. They are cheap enough it is good to get them when already paying shipping.

It is a handy jig that, well comes in very handy. :D

Joe

[Randal Stevenson]

i had the prior version of the kit and found that i hardly ever changed the 3/4" thickness setting so i sold it and bought an earlier aluminum kreg jig that feels much more solid off . CSH or amazon.com are the best sources for the 1 1/4" coarse pocket hole screws as previously mentioned.


My father also had the old Kreg 2000 pro pack. He ended up buying the new one after I did (I originally bought the Rocket) as it is easier to change. He uses them for 2x projects as well as 3/4, and leaves the old one on 3/4". The new one is adaptable to other sizes easier if that makes a difference to you.

[Charles Wilson]

So, how do you screw things together that are at a 90 degree angle with each other?

Chuck

[glenn bradley]

So, how do you screw things together that are at a 90 degree angle with each other?

Chuck

Same as edge to edge. With PH, its all about the screw length and jig position. I do edge joints. 90*, 45*, even some coopering. As I do different thicknesses of materail all the time, I am always changing my setup. Here's my little helper . . .

82185

You just drop the bit in the hole, slide the collar down and lock it to set your depth. The numbers on the chart are (from top to bottom); Material thickness, Collar setting (just as a reminder), Jig position relative to material edge and usual screw length.

No matter what jig you decide on, the little mini shown in the pic is handy to have as well for those odd spots.

[Jim Broestler]

The Master system is the best way to go, but there are a few additional items you should get:

2 right angle clamps. These look like large mouth vice clamps, but with a pad on one jaw and a straight rounded shaft on the other that fits in the pocket hole and holds the drilled piece tight against the mating piece. Essential, but don't come with the K3

An additional face frame clamp.

Definitely buy the bulk boxes of screws (1000pc).

The mini kreg jig. For two reasons: 1) there is a lip on the Master system than doesn't enable you to drill holes in pieces already assembled. For those times where you've already glue and screwed, or need to make a repair, the mini jig lets you do this; 2) it has a recess on the bottom that helps you push the kreg plugs in the holes. This alone is reason to buy it, since getting them in any other way is a real hassle, though maybe there's some other way to do it that I just haven't come across.

[Michael Wildt]

Hi,

The Kreg tool sure looks nice, but I only see info on screw length when one uses the same thickness of material on both sides of the joint. If one want to use a pocket screw to strengthen a 3/4" BB ply dado joint then I'm confused if the 1" screw would do it, assuming the dado is 1/4" deep.

Any pointers, before I just try this out ?

Thanks
Michael
(Wood novice)

[Prashun Patel]

Set your jig for the thickness of the material you're DRILLING into.
This will set the screw pilot hole to be dead center of the 'leaving' stock.

Set your screw length according to the material yr SCREWING into.

Also, I prefer to use pan heads if drilling thru 1/2" stock. The washer heads protrude the pocket hole. I use washer heads if drillign thru 3/4" for wider holding power.

eg: 3/4 into 3/4: 1 1/4 wh screw + set depth for 3/4 stock
eg: 1/2 into 3/4: 1 1/4 ph screw + set depth for 1/2 stock
eg: 3/4 into 3/8: (dado): 1" wh screw + set depth for 3/4 stock

My 2c

[Michael Wildt]

Excellent, that explains it as I had expected.

I'll get some 1" washer head coarse thread for a 3/4" BB ply dado connection. Both pieces are 3/4" and with the 1/4" dado only 1/2" is left so the 1" screw would work.

Thanks,
Michael