What glue for what wood?

[Alfred Hoffmann]

Do you use different glues for different woods? I noticed that I get a noticeable black line when I use Titebond III with light maple. I don't seem to get it with Titebond II. Neither did I notice this dark stain on walnut or some other darker woods. Do you make test bonds to find which glue gives the best results? I have given up on Gorilla glue since it stains my hands terribly.

Al Hoffmann

[Joe Chritz]

I buy whatever is on sale when I need a gallon, usually tightbondII for regular glue and elmers probond for water resistant glue.

Cutting boards and any project that may have water contact at all gets the water resistant. Everything else get regular PVA.

I haven't noticed glue lines if the joints are tight.

I am thinking about a HI-performer hot melt polyurethane glue system for finished pieces and the like where I would have normally used poly glue.

If I need extended set time I usually go for regular old elmers white glue. I haven't have anything I needed extended set with that didn't have a lot of glue surface and mechanical strength. Last one was a mission style bed and there were a lot of M&T joints.

Joe

[Jim Becker]

I generally use TB III at the point, but yes, TB II is probably a better choice for very light woods.

[Steve knight]

it seems to darken some woods. when I use it on padouk it sometimes makes a black glue line. it must be some chemical reaction.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Depends on what you are doing.

If it's an out of doors application use Titebond III, Epoxy, or Resourcinol.

If it's going to be underwater use Resoircinol or Epoxy.

If it's going to see lots of heat use Resourcinol

If you expect that you may have to re-glue it (for whatever reason) don't use any of the Titebond products.

If you will have a need to disassemble it some time later on, use hide glue. Same with thin veneers 'cause hide won't stain through.

If however, you are just having fun with your hobby you can use any glue you bloody well please and they will all prolly work just fine. The easiest to use of course are going to be the Titebond products.

[Jesse Cloud]

Cliff nailed it!

If your glue line is showing, it sounds like you have a bad edge joint. Might want to rip it on the glue line and rejoint. Are jointer knives sharp? Is the fence 90 degrees?

[mike wacker]

If I'm doing shop projects I use alot of Polyurathane (sp) based glue, either Gorilla or Elmer's Ultimate wood glue. I've found the Elmer's on 1/2 off frequently, so it gets used alot. If my joints are not perfect the foaming does a little gap filling for me. If a project is going outside either Titebond III or Polyurathane.

On "nicer" projects I usually use Titebond II. I would like to find something with a little more working time than Titebond II. Occasionally I mess up and need a little time to fix things. ;o) I'm told Original Titebond may do this for me. Gotta try it.

[Greg Hines, MD]

Personally, I have taken to using Titebond III, just because the Home Depot here had it on for a dollar a bottle.

Doc