Polishing Cast Iron

[Chris Padilla]

Okay Everyone,

I'd like to hear y'alls steps for polishing your cast iron tops to baby-butt smooth. I wanna see my ugly-mug in mine! :)

Please include topics about flattening high spots or even filling in low spots.

We have a good thread about precision straight-edges going right now. Obviosuly, you can use one to find high and low spots on your tops.

There is a good thread on how to clean rust off your top and keep it off (do a search). Basically, Boeshield's T-9 is the ultimate for rust-prevention and their Rust-Free is pretty decent for removing rust.

I plan to purchase Boeshield's T-9 and Rust-Free. Does the T-9 take away any of the slickness of the top? If so, what do you like to apply to get it back?

Thanks!

[Dennis McDonaugh]

Chris, I used Boeshield T9 and didn't like it for the reason you asked about. It made the top sorta sticky. Not like glue sticky, but not as smooth as wax. I just use Johnson's paste wax once a month and have not had any problems with rust. Now that I think about it, maybe the boeshield under the wax is the reason I don't have rust...hmmmmm...

[Chris Padilla]

Dennis,

Did you remove the T-9 before applying the paste wax or did you just put it right on it?

[Tony Sade]

When it seems like time to rewax, I clean off any wax residue with mineral spirits, use WD-40 with a green scotch brite pad then dry off with shop towels, wipe on/wipe off Mothers Mag Alum. Polish, then put on two coats of Johnsons paste wax. Works for me.

I tried the T-9 and got a really sticky surface. I figured I had done something wrong but didn't bother to try again, since my usual routine works fine.

[Kent Cori]

Chris,

I have used T-9 for a couple of years now on all my cast iron surfaces and some steel tools as well. I spay it on, let it sit for 3-5 minutes and wipe it off completely. I then let it dry over night and put a couple of coats of paste wax over it the next day. The paste wax adds the "slickness" that the T-9 lacks. The two coats are simply to make sure I don't miss a spot. I've had no rust in my hot, humid Florida garage workshop since I began using the T-9. I touch up the paste wax as needed and apply a whole new T-9/paste wax combo every 6 to 9 months.

[Jeff Skory]

I just bought some T-9 a few days ago. Used their rust remover to get rid of some fingerprints shaped rust spots (really smelly stuff), and then applied the T-9.

I also am dissapointed in the fact that it is somewhat sticky and tends to hold onto dust. Can't just blow it off or casually wipe the dust off.

I used to just go over the tabletops with a crumpled piece of wax paper, but that didn't seem to help with the T-9.

I'll have to try the paste wax method.

[Mike Kelly]

The March 2004 issue of Wood magazine had a convincing article showing that Boeshield T-9 to be the hands down champ in rust prevention. I suppose if you wanted the slicker surface, just apply wax over it. I have used wax for years, but now it will be on top of Boeshield.

As far as polishing cast iron, I guess you could, starting with about 220 grit and progressing to 1000 or so. It will be a little time consuming. I have seen some General and Powermatic tables that were real shiney when new. I had an old 1953 Delta that had a real smooth surface from use, but it wasn't shiney. Nice patina but couldn't use as a mirror.

[Steven Wilson]

I spray a heavy coat of Boeshield and let it dry (no wipe down) when I want to protect the tool from rust (like during the spring snow melt when humidity goes crazy). When applied heavy it protects nicely but leaves the surface a gooey sticky mess. When applied lightly I find that Boeshield doesn't work as well a plain wax. As for shining up a table top, a right angle grinder and 3M surface conditioning disks (looks like the 3M nylon steel wool pads) works well. Just be carefull that you use a very fine grit or you risk damaging the top.

[Donnie Raines]

I use T-9 also. What I find is this: The day after I have applied the protectant, the surfaces are indeed "sticky". However, if I simply wipe down the surface with a clean rag(no fluids of any type) the tackiness is gone and i have a nice smooth(..though not as smooth as wax) work surface. I have been very pleased with the product thus far.

DonnieR

[Dennis McDonaugh]

Chris, I just put it on top of the Boeshield. I tried to wipe the sticky off, but it didn't seem to work very well. I haven't ever totally removed the wax/boeshield, I just put new over top of the old. Don't know what the consequences of that is, but I don't have any rust or staining.

[Jay Goddard]

I also apply paste wax over the T-9. I have found a single application of T-9 sufficient to prevent rust for years, as long as I apply the paste wax as needed for slickness.

Boeshield also works great on keeping hand tools, vise parts, etc. rust free. Even in this humid state of South Carolina.


Jay

[Michael Ballent]

My secret is to hit the top with t-9 and then spray on top-cote. The surface is very slick, but really do no have to worry too much about humidity in the desert :D

-Michael

[Jim DeLaney]

Getting back to the initial question, which was about polisshing the Cast Iron, not protecting it - I used Wenol (brand name) metal polish and a random orbit sander with a scotchbrite pad on it to polish the tops of my TS and joiner. Both polished up very well. Not quite chrome-like, but still very shiny, and yes I can see my (albeit somewhat hazy) reflection in them.

After polishing, I used Topkote to preserve the shine. Minor blems get a localized re-polishing by hand.

[Chris Padilla]

Thanks, Jim. Actually, I did make comments about both protecting and polishing but I'm patient! :D

I was thinking to just some old metal polish I might have lying around. I've used some car care stuff in the past and it worked okay. What color of the scotchbrite pad do you use? I have the grey, maroon, and white ones for my Makita ROS...I'll have to try them out. Thanks!

[Jim DeLaney]

I was thinking to just some old metal polish I might have lying around. I've used some car care stuff in the past and it worked okay. What color of the scotchbrite pad do you use? I have the grey, maroon, and white ones for my Makita ROS...I'll have to try them out. Thanks!

I started with the green, then the maroon, and did the finish polishing with the white. BTW, any good metal polish should work. I had a quart can of the Wenol given to me by a friend who polished his airplane with it. SimiChrome, or Met-All, or even Brasso, ought to work just as well.