Firmer chisel bevel angle question

[David Tiell]

While reading "The Essential Woodworker", I ran across this. Quote: "The end bevel is designed for slicing across the end grain of wood while the long edges are not bevelled, allowing the cutting of square, parallel-sided mortises."

My question is, should the bevel on a firmer chisel be different than that on a bevel-edge chisel, or does it just depend on the work you are doing?

If so, then what is a good angle for the bevel on a firmer chisel?

TIA,

Dave

[Sam Yerardi]

For myself, I have always made my bevels on firmers the same as bevels on bevel-edged chisels. IMHO, I think you want an edge that is at least as good as that as far as the primary and secondary bevel angles or perhaps a little steeper even because a firmer is going to take a LOT of pounding, so an extremely sharp (less steeper bevels) will be a bit weaker at the edge.

[Tony Zaffuto]

Don't make too much science of bevels. Base your bevels on what works for the type of wood you work and not on what you read. If you got to adjust, do it with micro-bevels.

T.Z.

[Tim Sgrazzutti]

Bevel edge bench chisels and firmers, 30-35 degrees, paring chisels 25-30 degrees, mortise chisels 35 degrees. These are the angles I use, with the low end of the ranges for softwoods, and the high end for hardwoods.

The angle can also vary with the type of steel you have. My older chisels and plane irons deal with low angles fine, but anything made of A2 steel needs a higher angle to avoid chipping. Also, always grind a primary bevel about 5 degrees smaller than the secondary.

[Mike Henderson]

I grind a 25* bevel on almost all my chisels, including pigstickers. Then I use a secondary bevel to put an angle that's suited to the work I'm doing, maybe 30-35* for chopping.

Mike

[Sam Yerardi]

I'm using the same angles as Mike & Tim.

[David Tiell]

Thanks everybody! Just got my new Work Sharp 3000, and plan to start the process tomorrow morning. Will use 25* and microbevel where appropriate.

Dave

[Stan Suther]

I was just working last night on a beat up old firmer I'd acquired, and thinking about bevel angles. Some of my chisels I've sharpened with with a grinder, then used the two points (front and back) to settle down to my final sharpening angle- easier to do by hand. Others, I've sharpened with water stones, then put on on a microbevel. Wasn't settled on one method or the other. This discussion gives me the best argument for microbevels I've seen- easy angle adjustability for different types of work and wood. Thanks!