New to cabinet doors

[Rusty Elam]

OK,
Built a Kichen Island for the wife and I am going to make 6 doors to match the existing cabinets. I have not built panel doors yet so I wonder if you guys could help me with the basics. I went to Rockler and got their bead rail and stile set (probably not the best but should do for my 6 doors and I got a great deal) and their rail cutting jig.

My questions are;

How many passes do you guys run on your stiles and rails or do you just do it in one pass?

Do the jig it jigs that they sell to set up the R&S cutters work well enough that you dont have to fiddle with the adjustment?

I am using Oak to match the existing cabinets can I use the cathedral sections of the wood or should I try to stay with as straight of a grain as possible?

Any other tips would be appreciated.

[William Nimmo]

One pass usually does it on the style and rails. As far as set up, that is done with scraps. Get it right and run everything. Goes quickly. If you are raising a panel, then make several passes when removing alot of material.
Slow the router down with such a large bit.
I never worry about oak's grain pattern on styles and rails except for cosmetics.

[Lee Schierer]

You should cut the parts in sveral passes on oak to prevent tear out. Use a fence to allow you to make several passes. Take off just a small amount on the final pass in one continuoous (no stopping) cut to insure there aren't any burn marks. Use whichever piece you cut first as the jig to set up the second cutter. If the cutter doesn't fit into the piece just cut, neither will the pieces you will cut. I would recommend a few practice pieces if you've never done this before to get the set up and technique down out of the same type of wood. Be carefull if you have grain reversal or the grain is at an agle like this \\\\ with the cutter moving from bottom of the text toward the top as tear out will be a real problem. If the grain is like this //// it should cut fine. On your cross grain guts use a backer piece of scrap to prevent tear out as the cutter exists the wood.

[Rusty Elam]

Thanks for the info.
one more question I forgot do you run your raill and stile bits wide open or should I slow them down..they dont look any bigger than most profiling bits?

[Jeff Wright]

Thanks for the info.
one more question I forgot do you run your raill and stile bits wide open or should I slow them down..they dont look any bigger than most profiling bits?

Here's one person's suggestions for router rpms:

http://www.newwoodworker.com/ref/rtrbtspds.html

[Jeffrey Makiel]

One pass usually does it on the style and rails. As far as set up, that is done with scraps. Get it right and run everything. Goes quickly. If you are raising a panel, then make several passes when removing alot of material.
Slow the router down with such a large bit.
I never worry about oak's grain pattern on styles and rails except for cosmetics.

I second William's post with the following additional suggestion...make a very light final pass on the raised panel bit to minimize burn and sanding.

When I use my cope and stick cutters (stile and rail) I run them either at full router speed or 80% speed if the wood is hard (like maple). And, I just use one pass backed with a sacrafical board to miminize splintering.

-Jeff :)

[glenn bradley]

I do several passes and use the rule of thumb I was once taught: remove no more than a 3/8" x 3/8" area in any one pass. My table router is a beast and will easily do many things in one pass but I prefer to take a little more time rather than sharpen or replace bits. That's just me.

[Joe Chritz]

OK,
Built a Kichen Island for the wife and I am going to make 6 doors to match the existing cabinets. I have not built panel doors yet so I wonder if you guys could help me with the basics. I went to Rockler and got their bead rail and stile set (probably not the best but should do for my 6 doors and I got a great deal) and their rail cutting jig.

My questions are;

How many passes do you guys run on your stiles and rails or do you just do it in one pass?

I run a shaper with a power feed so I use one climb cut pass. One heavy and one clean up pass is fine for hand feeding.

Do the jig it jigs that they sell to set up the R&S cutters work well enough that you dont have to fiddle with the adjustment?

Nope, but they will get you close. So will making a few cuts then keeping one of each after you are done to use next time.

I am using Oak to match the existing cabinets can I use the cathedral sections of the wood or should I try to stay with as straight of a grain as possible?

I try to use the wood to the best yield. Grain pattern doesn't usually figure in unless I am trying for some special look.

Any other tips would be appreciated.

Prefinish the panel, or at least prestain the profile parts.



Joe

[William Nimmo]

Forgot to mention, get a coping jig. I used to do the cross grain free hand, and now the difference is amazing. So much easier and safer with a 49 dollar coping jig.

[Rusty Elam]

Thanks for sharing your knowledge guys, I hate to start anything for the first time without a little.

William, I already got the coping jig at the same time I bought the bits....had some great coupons and discounts so I got it all for less than $100 and like you said it looked much simpler and safer to use the jig.

Thanks one more time you guys are a great source of info

[tim harris]

I agree with glenn. I make at lease, 3 passes, the first 2 or so are at 80 % rated speed of the diameter of the bit. The last is at least 110% or a little more to make sure the bit speed is not a multiple of the last pass. I.E. not 33% and then 33% and then 33%.

The result is always a smooth cut and I don't have to worry about sharping a bit.

[Joe Chritz]

I just cut up pieces for 32 doors and this time I am cutting all the rails double width, running the cope then ripping down to size, then running the rail cut.

They aren't done yet but I like it enough to do it from now on when possible.

Joe