Any tips on Staved turnings?

[Bill Wyko]

I'm going to brush up in Malcolm's book but any info would be greatly appreciated, thanks. I don't have time between now and the show to do anything with a lot of pieces but I think I can get a Staved turning done in time.

[TYLER WOOD]

Yup, send the finished product to me.:D

I've read Malcolms book as well. It was a little short for me on the staved section. Could be that I look for too much detail when he's giving synopsis of several techniques. If you find a better source, let me know. Would love to learn more! THANKS!!!!

Ohhhh and good luck. I went to that show while I was living there, it's probably one of the neatest things I've been to. It's what really put the bug in my mind that I would want to do this later on when I get settled. I hope you sell lots of stuff at great prices for you. Don't let them talk you down on your price too much. Your work is too amazing to go for cheap!!!

[Bill Wyko]

:DI'll just tell them "For your price, it'll still look good in my house. For my price it'll look good in yours":D It's a good thing I don't have to do this for a living.:eek:

[Malcolm Tibbetts]

Bill, do you have specific questions?

Staves are a quick way to assemble a turning, but they also present problems. Deep forms require more "hollowing". The vertical grain is a problem when adding elements. Simple staves are not too difficult to produce; compound-mitered staves require more computation, etc.

[Bill Wyko]

I was going to try the compound miter staves. I actually was going to try one like one in your book. The one with the red color accenting. I have a piece of Eucalyptus Burl for the top and also some Black Ebony for the top rim and base. The rest of the accenting will be either Bubinga or Bloodwood.

[Bill Wyko]

The math in the book is a little confusing to me but the miter angles and the blade angles are what I'll use.

[Bob Hamilton]

Hi, Bill:
If the staves are long enough to safely machine as individual pieces it can be a lot less confusing to do the tapering and beveling as two separate operations. The couple of times I have done it I ripped the staves using a tapering jig on the tablesaw and then tilted my jointer fence and used multiple passes to bevel the cut edges. The pieces need to be 8" to 10" long minimum to safely use the jointer, though. I was making a base for a lighthouse when I did mine.

Good Luck!
Bob

[George Troy]

The math in the book is a little confusing to me but the miter angles and the blade angles are what I'll use.

Bridge City Tool Works has a small book $5.00 on compound miters and angles. Here is the URL

http://www.bridgecitytools.com/pages_framework/frameset_stage.asp?primary=1&secondary=0&tertiary=-1

[Malcolm Tibbetts]

Bill, there's really no reason to mess around with math. Charts are the way to go. I know you have my book; just use the chart at the back. If you want a really nifty excel spreadsheet that calculates more than just the basic angles, send me an email. This spreadsheet, which is incredibly easy to use, gives you angles, width dimensions, even the length of board required in order to produce the required number of staves.

[Bill Wyko]

Thanks Everyone. Malcolm, I'll try it this weekend. I really appreceiate the help. I also have a wedding to go to the week after the show so I want to make one for a wedding gift too. What have I gotten myself into.:eek:(I'm better under preasure:D)