OK, the lacquers dry, what next?

[Tom Hamilton]

Greetings fellow turners:

I purchased my first can of brush-on lacquer and have brushed it on a bowl.

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The first coat with a cheap, "chip" brush brought many brush marks and detached bristles. Not a good idea. I switched to a good Purdy and have applied 5 or 6 more coats. Most of the valleys and depressions caused by the first brush have leveled, but I can still see some of the irregularities.

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So the question is what next:

Wet sand starting at 600 or 800 and go up to 2000? or

Buff? Using what compound? Or both? Or another process?


The bowl is ditch wood, probably an elm, with interesting color. The bowl is 7" across and 3 1/4 tall.

As always I'm looking forward to your insights and coaching.

Best regards, Tom, in Houston, deciding lacquer fumes are a little potent.

[David Walser]

Tom,

I'd try a light sanding using 0000 steel wool. To see if that doesn't smooth things out. If not, apply another coat with your brush and wipe off any excess with a clean paper towel. That should do the trick.

From there, you have several options:

Do nothing more
Apply paste wax using 0000 steel wool and buff with a paper towel (while it's still on the lathe) or a clean cotton cloth. This produces a nice, deep, low-gloss finish.
Remove from the lathe and buff with tripoli, white diamond, and wax. This should give you a nice high-gloss finish. It'll show finger prints, but it sure looks pretty!Looks like a very nice bowl, by the way.

[Jeff Bower]

That's the best looking ditch wood I've ever seen!:eek: Beautiful. David gave you more insight already than I have in my bag of tricks.

[Bill Bolen]

Wow! That baby has some grain working in it! Hope you post a pic when you are done. I know it will be a beaut!..Bill..

[robert hainstock]

With that many coats of laquer, I'd go to 600 grit wet or dry, used wet and smooth out the wrinkles, then do the buff thing. steel wool expecially the finer stuff will leave minute particles on the surface. sooner or later they will rust and show up as black or dark spots. I use cheap green scrubby pads from the grocery store. They look like the more expensive 3M pads that some of our favorite venders sell they work great. then go through the whole buff thing. You will justice to that amazing piece, (more).
WOW!! :D:D:D
Bob

[Jim Becker]

Well...you may want to wait for the lacquer to fully cure before you dive in too much...and that can take several weeks. "Dry" is different than "cured" with finishes. Many of us have the habit of pushing ahead too quickly on things like buffing and the results can often be better if we wait until the finish is actully to its full hardness.

At that point, you can do any rubbing and buffing to bring it to the final sheen you desire.

This is all hard because turning is such an "instant gratification" activity. Unfortunately, the best finishing is not.

[Tom Hamilton]

Man, that instant gratification thing rears it's ugly head again. Thanks, Jim for pointing out that dry and cured are not the same. I know that about varnish but reading the lacquer sections in the finishing books and on the web I misunderstood the dry vs cured.

Robert, William, Jeff, and David thanks for your input. Since this is a practice piece I will try the wet sanding to learn how much I can push the timing. I was planning to taking this piece to the local turner's club meeting on Sat for judging. I still may but with trepidation.

Still, this turning thing is a gas! (60's-early 70's term for you younger Creekers.) Dust and chips everywhere and Schazaam, a finished piece, in the same afternoon. Jim's right (again) we (early Boomer's, I'm 61) like instant gratification.

[Allen Neighbors]

I've used Lacquer for 30 years, but have never used brush-on. Mostly now, I just use a Lacquer Wash, and seldom try for a high-build finish. When I do, I use spray-on, pre-catalyzed Lacquer. I've had orange peel, blushing, pin holes, fish-eyes, overspray and runs. When the gremlins attack, I either wash it all off with Lacquer Thinner and start over, or begin wet sanding with 320 and go up... it just depends on the thickness of the finish.
Don't forget, that Lacquer melts Lacquer... even when it's dry - and cured! :)
That's going to be an exceptional bowl. Ogee form is graceful and elegant. Wood is absolutely gorgeous. And the finish is coming along. Really nice work!