Turning small stuff

[Chris Barnett]

Other than a collet chuck, what device is used to turn stock, example for pens, too small for a scroll chuck [or have I not found the correct jaws]? Maybe the information is in the posts somewhere, but have not found the right group of words to sniff it out.

[Jason Hallowell]

I think you may be looking for pin jaws. I have a set and use them often when working with smaller pieces. I used to have a 3 jaw scroll chuck that would hold round stock smaller than 1/8". It was adapted from a mini metal lathe.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Chris - you didn't mention if you already have a chuck or not. I have a Talon and use the #1 step jaws to hold anything small.

[Ben Gastfriend]

The pin jaws usually work on a regular 4-jawed scroll chuck. For pens, the generally accepted way to hold blanks is to use a pen mandrel.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I agree on the pin jaws. Use them to make small finials, icicles, etc.

[Chris Barnett]

Have the Supernova2 and looked at pin jaws, but they only close to about .4 inch diameter which seems too large for pens but fine for other stuff. Thought about regular drill Jacobs chuck jaws, but was concerned that the bits would damage or make impressions in the wood due to the smaller contact area. And I will look into the pen mandrel. Thanks for the information.

[Greg Ketell]

Pen mandrels are good if you are just getting going. But they have a major flaw which is that they are 1/4" rod that is 7-12" long so they don't stay straight very well. The more advanced pen turners turn "between bushings". IE they put the bushings in the pen blank then clamp them between a dead center on the spindle and a live center on the tail stock. Virtually no wobble. Added bonus, it is cheaper. Although if you are making the standard 7mm pens this won't work without special bushings that can be purchased from http://turncrafts.com/. No longer a lot cheaper but you will end up with much nicer pens that are truly round, not oval.

GK


For pens, the generally accepted way to hold blanks is to use a pen mandrel.

[robert hainstock]

At a recent turn club meeting, a fellow showed two pens that were out of round. This comes from too much pressure on the tailstock. If you go to a mandrel, just snug up the tailstock and after you've rounded the blanknlay the tool on the blank and observe for rattle. It will usually be most pronounced at the tailstock end. A mandrel and bushings are the best way to go when turning pens. :)
Bob

[Gordon Seto]

Have the Supernova2 and looked at pin jaws, but they only close to about .4 inch diameter which seems too large for pens but fine for other stuff.

You don't have to turn the blank round before chucking. From chart below, you can see the jaw can chuck up square stock also.
http://www.teknatool.com/products/Chuck_Accessories/Jaw_Sets/downloads/Min-Max%20Ranges%20Jaw%20Table%20(inch)Sep06.pdf (http://www.teknatool.com/products/Chuck_Accessories/Jaw_Sets/downloads/Min-Max%20Ranges%20Jaw%20Table%20%28inch%29Sep06.pdf)
The pen blanks are always larger than ½" square to start with.
Normally you don't chuck up the finished turning in jaws (it would leave jaw marks), you part it off. Even on the 1/16" finial, you have to start with a much larger wood, you work your way towards the headstock.
Most people use a mandrel to turn pens with brass tubes. I tried to buy a replacement 7mm mandrel; I couldn't find a perfect straight one. I believe a lot of guys at IAP are switching to mandrel-less. Some of the pens they do are amazing. They can't tolerate any run out on those complicated segmented pens.

[Rich Souchek]

Chris,
I use the spigot jaws on a Talon chuck.
Rich S.

[Paul Engle]

Chris there is a Jacobs style chuck on the market with jaws machined for holding round small items with out crushing or leaving a mark , I think it was wood crafter supply in Utah, I know that there is a micro chuck out there good for 1/16 th in up to 1 inch and it maybe pennstate or ? and was about 40$ w/#2 mt.

[Greg Ketell]

:D

Well, that is what makes the world turn: differences of opinion. But if you ask those who do pens as their primary turnings (two good sites are thepenshop.net (http://thepenshop.net) and penturners.org (http://penturners.org)) you will find that mandrels are frowned on if you want consistent results.

With a mandrel the problem could be too tight a tail stock. Or you are pushing too hard with your tool. Or the mandrel is bent. Or... Without that long flexible shaft you eliminate all those possible issues. The only downside in "turning between centers" is that you can only do one side at a time so you have to envision your finished product as you do each half.



A mandrel and bushings are the best way to go when turning pens. :)
Bob