Hand plane for shooting and general use

[Quesne Ouaques]

I currently have a Stanley #4 and a low-angle block plane that I use for general materials preparation, as well as a japanese style hardwood plane that I keep very sharp for trimming boards that come off my jointer.


I am starting to do a little more hand jointing and shooting board work, and I'm thinking about getting a plane with a longer sole for this purpose.
Would I be better served with a #6 jack plane (approx. 18 inches long), or a #7 jointer smoothing plane (approx. 22 inches long)?

[Mike Cutler]

I have a LN #9 miter plane that is purpose specific for shooting board work, but.... My Low Angle Smoother #164 works better, A low Angle Jack is supposed to be very good also.

Derek Cohen, here on the board, has some nice write ups on shooting boards and planes.

http://www.wkfinetools.com/contrib/dCohen/z_art/shootBoard/index.asp

http://www.wkfinetools.com/contrib/dCohen/z_art/whatPlane/whatPlan.asp


( Dave. I hope linking to these sites is OK. If not, apologies upfront)

[Zahid Naqvi]

I don't think the length of the sole will make much of a difference for shooting. In general heavier planes with low bedding angle for the blades work the best. The LV low angle jack is very highly recommened for this and general purpose use. Although I confess of to have never used it.

[Mike Gabbay]

I use my low angle jack or my #5. The low angle jack is handy since you can get a second blade and grind it to a different angle depending on what you need to use it for.

[Josiah Bartlett]

I have a #5 bailey and a #603 bedrock. I rarely break out the bedrock except for jointing boards to glue up a table top. A well set up #5 is plenty long for most uses.

[Marcus Ward]

You joint boards with a #3? You must be a ninja.

[Doug Shepard]

Haven't dont a LOT of work with shooting boards but the LN Low Angle Jack worked real well. I've also used a LA Block Plane on very small things with good results.

[Mark Roderick]

I have the LN low-angle jack and it works great for this purpose.

If I had an unlimited budget and no sense of shame, I would buy the specialized plane LN sells for use with shooting boards. It's a humongous iron beast made to be laid on its side, with no chance of tilting on edge.

The others are right, the length doesn't matter. What matters is the heft, so it will glide smoothly through the cut.

[Mike Cutler]

If I had an unlimited budget and no sense of shame, I would buy the specialized plane LN sells for use with shooting boards. It's a humongous iron beast made to be laid on its side, with no chance of tilting on edge.

I don't have an unlimited budget, but my wife will tell you I have no shame.:D

I have the LN, #9 Miter Plane, but I actually have found that the # 164, low angle smoother, is working out better for me. For some reason the #164 is easier to hold onto, and the spec's for sole flatness and square are the same on both planes.
I'd like to try a low angle jack someday.

[Brian Kent]

I had a lot of shooting work to do for Christmas presents and the LV Low Angle Jack was the winner (though I occasionally switched to other planes for variety). I would recommend the harder A2 steel blade. I was used mixed hardwoods with a lot of glue and that dulled the O1 blade a little too quickly.

[lowell holmes]

I have the LV low angle jack and use it to shoot boards. It works quite well. It has practically retired my LN 4 1/2 as well.

[Robert Rozaieski]

Any plane will work for shooting as long as the blade can be adjusted square to the work (sides of the plane don't necessarily need to be square) and the blade is SHARP. End grain is tough stuff, especially on the harder woods. I've used just about every bench plane I own from a block plane to a #7. I typically just use whatever plane I have in my hand at the time. I don't own a LA plane other than a LA block. Bevel down planes work fine if the iron is sharp. Just don't use a rabbet plane ;).

[Mark Roderick]

In that case I'd be glad to take that heavy, ugly old miter plane off your hands, so you could save space in your shop.

[Mike Cutler]

In that case I'd be glad to take that heavy, ugly old miter plane off your hands, so you could save space in your shop.


It does take up some valuable real estate, but I'd hate to saddle a fellow 'creeker with that boat anchor.... Now where did I put that ugly old piece of scrap? :eek:,;)

In all seriousness though. It looks like LN changed the design. The one pictured on the Craftsman Studios webpage has a knob hanging off the front right side of the plane, and in the picture on the LN website you can see that a hole is tapped to facilitate installing that knob. Installing a knob in this location would negate the ability to use on edge on a shooting board.
Mine has neither a tapped hole, nor came with a spare knob.
I've never seen a real Stanley #9, so I don't know if they had this option, and what is was for?
Curious

[Mike K Wenzloff]

...In all seriousness though. It looks like LN changed the design. The one pictured on the Craftsman Studios webpage has a knob hanging off the front right side of the plane, and in the picture on the LN website you can see that a hole is tapped to facilitate installing that knob. Installing a knob in this location would negate the ability to use on edge on a shooting board.
Mine has neither a tapped hole, nor came with a spare knob.
...Curious
The knob worked well, but is the from the first LN design:

http://wenzloffandsons.com/temp/veneer/edges0001.jpg

I sold my LN #9 a year to two ago and have regretted it. A wonderful plane to use.

But regrets are temporary sometimes. In this case, the LN #9 is being replaced by this Beech miter plane that Phil Edwards in the UK made for me and is winging its way across the pond as I write:

http://wenzloffandsons.com/temp/phil/mw1.jpg

And Chris Schwarz's blog entry on the same plane:

http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/Tool+Test+Wooden+Miter+Plane+From+Philly+Planes.as px

Take care, Mike

[Thomas Knighton]

Mike,

Now you're just bragging :p

Tom

[Mike Cutler]

Ahh...
It appears that the photo is reversed on the site, it would have had the knob on the shooting board side.
Your pic straightened it out. I guess the knob was pre "Hot-Dog".
Thanks Mike

[Mark Stutz]

Mike,
The #9 had a hole tapped on both sides so it could be used on eother side. At the time the hot dog was an additional cost. I like the knob. I suspect LN would tapone if asked.

Mark

[Mike Cutler]

Mark

I actually think I'd like to try the knob on the front. While I have the hot dog installed on mine, as of now, I wonder if the knob would give me a better feel.

The LN#9 is a good sized plane, but I find that I have a tendency to tip it inward toward the workpiece, ever so slightly, from time to time. It's almost like I'm getting to much mechanical advantage with the hot dog, and lifting the plane with the hot dog when my hand gets lazy. This is probably why the #164 feels a little better to me.

Thank you for the info on the #9. I'm going to give serious consideration to modifying my LN #9.