Stain/Poly/Etc. Can Sealing

[Dave Dye]

How do you guy seal cans after using stain, poly, etc. I always seem to get something on the lips of the can and after sealing several times, the can start to leave air in and you get the scummy top.

There has to be a better way to seal the cans or do you use a different contain for storage??

Thanks

[Joe Chritz]

It is most likely the air left in the can that is oxidizing the finish and not leakage. Even with finish in the lips a standard can seals pretty tight.

There is oxygen replacements that is supposed to be sprayed into the can immediately before sealing but I doubt it works as well as the theory.

I try to buy containers small enough to be used up in 6 months or so.

Joe

[Jamie Buxton]

In my experience, the issue is bad sealing of the lid, so solvents leak out. The key is to not have fluid in the gutter at the top of the can when you're putting the lid back on. Fluid there interferes with the lid seating properly, and therefore with the sealing. You can clean out most of the fluid in the gutter with the brush tip, and get the rest with a paper towel or even a couple of Q-tips. I've had properly-sealed half-cans of varnish last for years, and still be healthy when I opened them.

[Dave Trask]

I usually put the lid back on the can tap it with a small hammer and then place the can inside a sealable baggie.

[robert hainstock]

Put the lid back on tite, turn the can upside down and store. Puts the scum on the bottom when you are ready to use again. ALWAYS CHECK FOR SEEPAGE/ LEAKS! :(:(:(
Bob

[Sam Yerardi]

Dave,

I've read about a novel technique to help with this but I admit I've never tried it. I think it would help to some extent but it's not 100%. The idea is as you use the material in the can, replace it with marbles. The marbles with displace the remaining space that traps air when you close the can. To make this work, you would probably need to fill the can with marbles until the remaining finish/material is at the top of the can to lessen the amount of air left to trap.

[Jeff Heil]

I put small holes in the bottom of the can "gutter" with a 16d nail and hammer so the finish drips back into the can. It makes cleanup before putting on the lid less messy. I also store the partial cans upside down.

[George Octon]

One of the main keys is to keep the rim immacualately clean 9and it takes work). I learned it from a non painter I worked with, this after painting for about 20 years. You clean the can rim with rag or paper towel. You may even have to clean the lid rim bause if gets paint etc on it; it will flood the can rim when you put it back on. For instance, if you shake the can; the inside of the lid will be loaded with paint. It helps to put holes in the can rim (with awl, screwdriver etc), but not near as much as cleaning. Even though you put drain holes in the rim; believe it or not they will still fill up and foul.
Another trick that makes sense and I've had some success with is to add a little thinner as a skin on top the finish left in the can. The slower dryin the better, even kerosene. You can drip it in or spray it with a little spray bottle from Walmat ( a little pump sprayer) that holds about one ounce. There's a spray you can buy called Bloxygen too.