Question about mortising for door hinges

[Louis Brandt]

Hello,
I’m getting ready to replace most of the interior doors in my home, and I’m concerned about the mortising for the hinges. I’m thinking of getting a Bosch Colt router for the job, but I know that the Bosch Colt doesn’t have a plunge feature. I’m a decent woodworker, but I’m a novice when it comes to routers, so my question is, without the ability to plunge, will I have problems mortising with the Bosch Colt? I would assume that I can buy a mortising template for the job, but I’m concerned about whether a Bosch Colt can do the job well. I know that I can buy a standard plunge router, but I’d hate to think of having to wield a large, heavy router across the narrow thickness of a door. And these doors will be vinyl doors, not wood.
Thanks,
Louis

[Jay Jolliffe]

I've got the Bosch Colt & that's what I use to do the hinges & lock plate. I don't use a template I do it free hand. It has plenty of power. With a template it would go faster. I've just started to use it for dove tails with a Leigh jig. I have two so one does the pins & one for the tails.

[Louis Brandt]

Thanks for the reply, but is it difficult to do without it being able to plunge? Do you have to be especially careful when starting it over the area to be cut?
Louis

[Mikail Khan]

Even though I have a plunge base I use a fixed base router for hinge mortising. Just start the router and position the bit off of the edge of the door and start the cut slowly.

Even if you choose to start the cut in the middle of the area you are removing becuse the depth of cut is so small you should not have a problem.

Mikail

[Ben Grunow]

I have seen/made jigs for this type of work and my experience has led me to use a laminate trimmer with the base cut in half so the bit can be used nearly flush against the stops on an existing door jamb. This is a dangerous setup but it really makes the job a breeze and you can actually see what the but is cutting.

As for plunging a non plunge router.. it is really not an issue, after the first few you will have the hang of it. Plus for door hinges, the mortise is open to one side of the door so you should never have to plunge.

I screw the hinge on the door and cut around it with the utility knife then remove the hinge and route by eye to the knife line and square the corners with a chisel.

Hope this helps.

[Ben Grunow]

Oh and I think you should still get the new router. You might need it.

[Jordan Lane]

i highly recommend these templates for your hinge and mortise needs regardless of what router you use. I found the Colt benefits from the Pat Warner bases when using templates. http://www.templaco.com/html/

[Gordon Harner]

I do quite a few door replacements. Imho a template is the way to go. If you're in a hurry the most HDs have a plastic template adjustable for hinge size for about $20.00. Some other advice, check the jams for level and square they may be off, check the width of the door you are replacing I find that I have to plane most of the door slabs I install. Use the old door to figure the hinge mortise placement. I have a t shaped brace that I use to hold the door on edge. I clamp one edge of the t to the door. Be prepared to adjust the door stops for some reason it's almost impossible to get the mortise depth the same on the old door and the new one. This will take you longer than you will think. Good luck.