Brad Ridgway
02-09-2008, 2:54 PM
I am planning my kitchen out... I have some basic questions after getting some (the plywood ladder frame, etc) answered in other posts. btw - some of the postings in here are just beautiful... I would just love to see more detail on this if i could
1) The current cheap particle board stuff i have had an inch recess underneath would could be used for lights... I think i likely what under lighting going forward, but I am not sure about the best way to go. If i buy some nice maple plywood for the carcasses, would you do dadoes for the bottom shelf and then edge band the bottom edge you'd see on the two sides and the back? Or would you rabbit the bottom shelf inand just build a more simple rabbit on the bottom? or something else...
2) for oversized uppers i will likely build 13-14" deep and higher. I have 9' ceilings and the mrs has been asking for something pretty much what frank did in the following post with the small glass doors up high. Did you build the upper as one unit with the upper shelf dadoed and a single face frame?
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=422015
2B) I want as few sections as little as possible upon install. Even if they're heavy. I can get help and i've got bottle jacks if needed... My longest span would be 72". Is that doable with the the help? I hate the way i see the joint on the prebuilt stuff you see from the store...
3) Also I found a few posts on installing the accuride (>) slides which is what i want. How do you plan your inside face frame overlaps for these? Do i keep it at a minimum to get the clearance between the drawer/frame or should i just make the proportions good on the frame and shim the slide with ply when mounting if it's a big overlap (this is what the cabniet maker my inlaws used did). I'm assuming there will be some give in case the inner width between the sides fluctuates slightly (make that i hope!)
thx in advance
-brad
1) The current cheap particle board stuff i have had an inch recess underneath would could be used for lights... I think i likely what under lighting going forward, but I am not sure about the best way to go. If i buy some nice maple plywood for the carcasses, would you do dadoes for the bottom shelf and then edge band the bottom edge you'd see on the two sides and the back? Or would you rabbit the bottom shelf inand just build a more simple rabbit on the bottom? or something else...
2) for oversized uppers i will likely build 13-14" deep and higher. I have 9' ceilings and the mrs has been asking for something pretty much what frank did in the following post with the small glass doors up high. Did you build the upper as one unit with the upper shelf dadoed and a single face frame?
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=422015
2B) I want as few sections as little as possible upon install. Even if they're heavy. I can get help and i've got bottle jacks if needed... My longest span would be 72". Is that doable with the the help? I hate the way i see the joint on the prebuilt stuff you see from the store...
3) Also I found a few posts on installing the accuride (>) slides which is what i want. How do you plan your inside face frame overlaps for these? Do i keep it at a minimum to get the clearance between the drawer/frame or should i just make the proportions good on the frame and shim the slide with ply when mounting if it's a big overlap (this is what the cabniet maker my inlaws used did). I'm assuming there will be some give in case the inner width between the sides fluctuates slightly (make that i hope!)
thx in advance
-brad